electrician tricks

[alfiesauce]

I call mine- the terminator
because it's a terminating screw driver.

 

[TwinCitySparky]

Sorry, no pix. :-?

One of these guys. The wider bristle version works great. You dont have to hit the nut dead center on the wheel.

It will scream up the threads.

 

[Smart $]

Another idea came to mind tonight:

When working with threaded rod, and you need to run a nut a long way onto the rod, here's a neat trick I learned years ago.
...
Works great when you've got a lot of them to do, such as when you're building multi-layered trapezes.

One of these guys. The wider bristle version works great. You dont have to hit the nut dead center on the wheel.

It will scream up the threads.

For one-off trapezes I just chuck up the end of the rod in the drill... direct drive. Best to wear gloves when holding the nuts while the rod is spinning. For really long trapeze rod, some assistance may be required :grin:

Chucking up the rod can leave the end threads slightly to somewhat marred. In cases where I need or prefer "pristine" threads, I cut a short piece of rod for putting in the drill chuck then put a nut and a rod coupling on the other end... using the nut and another on the target rod to jam lock the rods together with the coupling.

 

[electricalperson]

today i had to trace some circuits but i didnt have a circuit breaker and i didnt want to flip breakers on and off because of computers.

heres what i did to help

i grabbed a heat gun, plugged it into the receptacle and went to the panel with my ammeter. i tell the helper to turn it on and i check the phases for the extra 15 amps the heat gun drew. once i found the phase i went down each side of the breaker until i found one with 15 amps on it. i tell the helper to turn it off and the amperage went away. it worked better than an actual tracer IMO

 

[Fulthrotl]

today i had to trace some circuits but i didnt have a circuit breaker and i didnt want to flip breakers on and off because of computers.

heres what i did to help

i grabbed a heat gun, plugged it into the receptacle and went to the panel with my ammeter. i tell the helper to turn it on and i check the phases for the extra 15 amps the heat gun drew. once i found the phase i went down each side of the breaker until i found one with 15 amps on it. i tell the helper to turn it off and the amperage went away. it worked better than an actual tracer IMO

they aren't cheap, but the circuit tracer i use is the same one i bought
in 1991. when it got stolen, i researched looking for something better,
and could find nothing better.... so i bought another one on ebay.

Amprobe CT-326B Circuit Tracer Kit. old technology. expensive. works.
they haven't changed it in 18 years, except to raise the price from
$600 to $1,000 :-(

it lists at $1,000, i got it brand new for $400 on ebay... it used to be
made by pasar, and amprobe bought them out a while ago. ideal has
one out that is even more pricey, don't know how well it works.

the $25 ones at home desperate? tried one once. after getting really
frustrated with it not being able to find the right panel, let alone the
right breaker, i gave it to my friend mark, and he tried it, and then i think
threw it against a wall..... now we both own ct-326b's.......:smile:

randy

 

[Fulthrotl]

One of these guys. The wider bristle version works great. You dont have to hit the nut dead center on the wheel.

It will scream up the threads.

ooh. thank you.... something to remember.

 

[peter d]

the $25 ones at home desperate? tried one once. after getting really
frustrated with it not being able to find the right panel, let alone the
right breaker, i gave it to my friend mark, and he tried it, and then i think
threw it against a wall..... now we both own ct-326b's.......:smile:

The cheap circuit tracers are actually great for basic residential use. For anything more than that then I would definitely agree that a pro grade model is the one to use.

 

[electricalperson]

i have a circuit tracer but left it home. i normally use that but in a jam the heatgun/fluke 337 trick works wonders

 

[glene77is]

what about keeping insulation off your skin so its not uncomfortable to crawl around attics? i was in hell today. lying down across joists 2 feet on center through blown in insulation.

For attics, I wear long sleeved shirts, face mask, Head Lamp, carry a small tool pouch/bag (sometimes looped over my neck).

I also keep some 1x4 x 36" in my van to straddle the joists, and give me something to lay on so I get both hands on the work.

I also can tolerate heat well (but not forever!),
some people are more/less able to deal with the heat
before becoming 'confused' or 'sick'.

...

 

[glene77is]

Hire a helper or change jobs. :wink:

Iwire,
I like your suggestions, ha,ha.

My (somewhat humorous) retort is :
My helper is 300 lbs, not an attic person.
I gave up on better paying jobs to get the kind of work I like.

...

 

[glene77is]

Do your layout on the floor with blue painter's tape to mark the centers, and shine up with a laser plumb bob.

MD,
I have a Laser plumb bob (sits on the floor),
and yours is a GOOD suggestion.

...

 

[glene77is]

You seriously wanna take half a pay cut to work in Florida?

I took a half pay cut to work in Tennessee.
I hear the scenery and beaches are better in Florida!

Maybe my wife should be reading this forum!

...

 

[glene77is]

As opposed to a full pay cut? :-?

I worked for Davidson Electric in Spring Valley, N.Y., in the 60's.
Old Stanley told me one day, "Half a loaf is better than None!"
I said "Thank you" and went back to work!

We had to wear pig-skin gloves all winter
to protect our hands from the cold conduit.

Guess that qualifies for another "Electrician Trick"
which is what this thread is about, anyway.
. . .

 

[glene77is]

In areas where dust control is important, drilling through a wet sponge helps.

Michael,

"Drilling Through Wet Sponge"

That is a GOOD Electricians Trick!

...

 

[rattus]

Cheapo remote repair:

Cheapo remote repair:

How would we live without remote controls? It would be hard for us who are wedded to them. But, the hateful things wear out; the little rubber buttons lose their conductivity.

Now there are kits our there for repairing them, but here is what I do.

Punch out a 3/16" disc from a sheet of clean, paper-thin brass shim stock. I use a Whitney hand-held punch for this. Now, hammer out the dimple made by the punch.

Roughen the surface of the rubber button and put a drop of epoxy on it. Now center the disc over the button, press down gently, and let the epoxy cure.

Works for me.

Many variations are possible. Gold foil would be ideal, but I am fresh out.

 

[aberti]

I like to use baby powder, but not on my exposed skin. Smells kinda funny to the homeowner, what are you chafing? Just kidding- I actually have a chalk box filled with baby powder and snap lines on the ceiling for final exact layout. It works like a charm and brushes away easily. Blue painters tape is also your friend, and I admit the laser plumb bob sounds like a real winner, you just need the clear floor space for layout, something you may not have say in a kitchen with cans close to the base cabs. Just my .02

 

[BKDog]

I ve got one for the recessed cans...
take a metal coat hanger and bend it in 2 back to back 90 angles
make sure that you dont dog it the top piece of wire measures the size of you can
the bottom should be short 1-2 inches so you can get the top piece in the ceiling.
poke a small hole thru the rock with the longer (properly measured) arm and spin it
it will encounter any obstruction and you can tell where those obstuctions are by referencing the bottom arm
if you need to move the hole over to center in the bay white crayon works pretty well if you hit it with a lighter it will cover most small holes
the cryon is a good marker for the ceiling too
if you look at an angle it will shine a little but is virtually invisable from below
(don't draw hard with it it will cake up)
of course if you have a textured ceiling be careful it tends to flake and crack off easily over time

BK