GFIC

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Thanks kwired, but ... then it is okay in commercial kitchens to install 20 amps breakers on 14 AWG?
 
Thanks kwired, but ... then it is okay in commercial kitchens to install 20 amps breakers on 14 AWG?
For receptacle circuits or otherwise in general no. For a hard wired motor, appliance with motor(s), air conditioning/refrigeration it can happen.
 
GFIC

Finally the chief bough the receptacles with alarm for the kitchen, he bought Source Protection Receptacles, I don't think those are the same as GFIC and told him about, he said I am wrong. I am?
 
Finally the chief bough the receptacles with alarm for the kitchen, he bought Source Protection Receptacles, I don't think those are the same as GFIC and told him about, he said I am wrong. I am?

Unless it says GFCI and has test & reset buttons it is not a GFCI.
 
Finally the chief bough the receptacles with alarm for the kitchen, he bought Source Protection Receptacles, I don't think those are the same as GFIC and told him about, he said I am wrong. I am?

Can you please provide a manufacturer and model number? I've never heard of a "Source Protection Receptacle", and my google search didn't come up with anything either.
 
Image search result includes a duplex receptacle with an apparent alarm sound opening and indicator light, but no buttons. I could not find any more about it.
 
Can you please provide a manufacturer and model number? I've never heard of a "Source Protection Receptacle", and my google search didn't come up with anything either.

Image search result includes a duplex receptacle with an apparent alarm sound opening and indicator light, but no buttons. I could not find any more about it.

I bet it is a TVSS receptacle. Useless for personal protection.

This is a Cooper but others make them too.

8200vs_greenled.jpg




http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...n_devices/tvss_receptacles_8200_s_8300_s.html
 
Maybe OP's original reference was "surge protected" rather than "source protected"?

That was what I was thinking. Could have been a misunderstanding.




Did you notice that the receptacle has a grounding conductor alarm?

I wonder how much current is used for that check?

To little current and almost any connection will read fine, two much current and you might heat bad connections.
 
Same facility

Same facility

Maybe 80 sub panels, the system is grounded by conduit. I open one sub and found that (see photo) identified by painter tape, ground and neutral in love and grounded and neutral bar in love as well. should I open all sub panels to check?
 
I continue in this post because today I walked away from the job for the continuous ?stupidity? of the CE, but HR called me back to see if I can work something out with him. Maybe I am wrong and he?s right. I am new in this ?commercial thing ?and he?s a licensed commercial electrician. Here is the situation:
This apartment was remodeled and finished last Monday. Resident called because she cannot use the vacuum on her master bedroom before she move the furniture. I saw that she plugged the vacuum on the top of the outlet (receptacle outlet) and I explained her that the top ones work with the switch, so, I plugged it on the bottom one, but nothing happened. I flipped the switch and all 4 duplex outlets ?come alive? but I hear a noise in the radiator unit (this unit works with the boiler for heating and with chiller for cooling). I opened two of the four outlets and I saw a bunch of ?green? wires. Well, I thought, that maybe, because the system is grounded by conduit, the handyman jumped the outlet grounding screw to the metal box, but no, it was not, so I opened the second receptacle and continue seeing more and more ?green? wires and I traced the wire to the neutral on the radiator. See photos; also note that the handyman used the same outlets, leaving part of the old conductors there with the risk of those ?pig tails? making contact with the grounded boxes. And I found that the whole electric system in this apartment is now grounded in this way. I tried to reasoning with this CE, but he insisted that I am wrong, that he needed to take the grounding from somewhere, I explained about the ?grounded by conduit? but to not avail, so been not comfortable with this situation I walked away. Am I wrong?
And in the kitchen: something to recreate your mind.
 
I continue in this post because today I walked away from the job for the continuous ?stupidity? of the CE, but HR called me back to see if I can work something out with him. Maybe I am wrong and he?s right. I am new in this ?commercial thing ?and he?s a licensed commercial electrician. Here is the situation:
This apartment was remodeled and finished last Monday. Resident called because she cannot use the vacuum on her master bedroom before she move the furniture. I saw that she plugged the vacuum on the top of the outlet (receptacle outlet) and I explained her that the top ones work with the switch, so, I plugged it on the bottom one, but nothing happened. I flipped the switch and all 4 duplex outlets ?come alive? but I hear a noise in the radiator unit (this unit works with the boiler for heating and with chiller for cooling). I opened two of the four outlets and I saw a bunch of ?green? wires. Well, I thought, that maybe, because the system is grounded by conduit, the handyman jumped the outlet grounding screw to the metal box, but no, it was not, so I opened the second receptacle and continue seeing more and more ?green? wires and I traced the wire to the neutral on the radiator. See photos; also note that the handyman used the same outlets, leaving part of the old conductors there with the risk of those ?pig tails? making contact with the grounded boxes. And I found that the whole electric system in this apartment is now grounded in this way. I tried to reasoning with this CE, but he insisted that I am wrong, that he needed to take the grounding from somewhere, I explained about the ?grounded by conduit? but to not avail, so been not comfortable with this situation I walked away. Am I wrong?
And in the kitchen: something to recreate your mind.
I'm a little lost in there, did you/your company remodel this? where does the handyman come into play? I agree with needing "to take the grounding from somewhere", but do not agree that connecting it to the neutral is the correct place. If metal raceway is present and is electrically continuous (which it is supposed to be, or at least is to be made continuous with bonding jumpers where necessary), then it is the proper place to go.
 
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