Having a hard time estimating labor hours

[nhfire77]

Don't know what their budget is, but without blocking, maybe even with, I'd be concerned about maintenance. Could they consider a replacement door closer with the mag hold-open? Can be pricey, but mounted to the head of the door frame, they might be more successful.

Do you have an example of what you are talking about, I can picture it 'but can't find one.

 

[USMC1302]

LCN Firedoor Closer, try googling that. I don't have the info readily at hand. I know there are others out there as well. Am I understanding you have 35 or so of these to install? If so, the closers price would be huge. I have used both, but most of the time I have block walls to attach to. Those togglers Bob pictured are a great piece of gear. Could you somehow use a floor mounted hold-open?

 

[nhfire77]

I have 35 per floor 2 floors.

Since I was the low bid, and there were no bid specs I need to make sure that we are all on the same page.

The floor mount option would be better, but would add a bit of time on each to snake to the floor instead of 2' from the ceiling. Then there is the mounting, the floors are carpeted.

 

[satcom]

LCN Firedoor Closer, try googling that. I don't have the info readily at hand. I know there are others out there as well. Am I understanding you have 35 or so of these to install? If so, the closers price would be huge. I have used both, but most of the time I have block walls to attach to. Those togglers Bob pictured are a great piece of gear. Could you somehow use a floor mounted hold-open?

I bet the closers price would be huge, my neighbor was complaining he had 16 of them installed in his high rise, and the charged 17K for the installation and then he got bit for another 6K for the alarm company to tie them in. I am in the wrong business.

 

[Dave58er]

Is there an exact position for each door that these must be mounted at or do you have some discretion?

The reason I ask is that if it is possible to move the box at all you may be able to mount it to a stud in some cases.

I'm assuming these are metal studs. I like to drill with a 1/2" hole saw in the center of the stud and have the toggle bolt grab the metal when I'm mounting something heavy on drywall.

The WP boxes I'm thinking of have tabs that are optional on the exterior, but in this case I would run the toggle out of the back hub with a washer and lock-washer. The box shouldn't rotate if the toggle bolt is tight enough but just in case I would probably run a drywall screw or two in above/below the toggle into the stud.

If it is a wood stud I like those heavy duty deck screws that have the special Hi-torque quasi Phillips head.

I googled the part number you listed for the box and the only hit I got was this thread. :roll::grin:

So I'm not exactly sure which box you're using, but, I would add that if it is the kind of box I am thinking of, with the optional tabs, I would never use those tabs in this situation. They are IMO too weak for this installation.

 

[fishin' electrician]

I think, given that these are seniors, and that they are propping the doors open, you aren't likely to have too many issues. They won't be touching these doors once they're held open, they don't want to be bothered with them, that's why they've been propping them open.

Years ago we did a similar job only the entire job was in 500 wiremold, so everything was surface mounted. Never had a single call back for crushed in/pulled out holders, using standard toggle bolts on 5/8" rock.

Good luck.

 

[Volta]

I have 35 per floor 2 floors.

Since I was the low bid, and there were no bid specs I need to make sure that we are all on the same page.

The floor mount option would be better, but would add a bit of time on each to snake to the floor instead of 2' from the ceiling. Then there is the mounting, the floors are carpeted.

I'd revisit the floor-mounted version if at all possible.

 

[nhfire77]

Is there an exact position for each door that these must be mounted at or do you have some discretion?

The reason I ask is that if it is possible to move the box at all you may be able to mount it to a stud in some cases.

I'm assuming these are metal studs. I like to drill with a 1/2" hole saw in the center of the stud and have the toggle bolt grab the metal when I'm mounting something heavy on drywall.

The WP boxes I'm thinking of have tabs that are optional on the exterior, but in this case I would run the toggle out of the back hub with a washer and lock-washer. The box shouldn't rotate if the toggle bolt is tight enough but just in case I would probably run a drywall screw or two in above/below the toggle into the stud.

If it is a wood stud I like those heavy duty deck screws that have the special Hi-torque quasi Phillips head.

I googled the part number you listed for the box and the only hit I got was this thread. :roll::grin:

So I'm not exactly sure which box you're using, but, I would add that if it is the kind of box I am thinking of, with the optional tabs, I would never use those tabs in this situation. They are IMO too weak for this installation.

I agree, if hitting a stud is possible without a big deal, I will.

Its actually wood studs, which is great. Trying to align to a stud is probably possible at almost every door. But we will have to add extension rods. Not too expensive, but if every door needs one, it could a $300-$400 depending on the number needed.

The back box is a standard 1 gang 3 hole WP box. The instructions show mounting through the back of the box, there are small screw "knock out" holes. That's how I would do it.

I also plan on adding small fender washer the the screw in the box.

I have had a lot of positive feed back from people I have spoke to in person, but, I realize the caliber of the advice dispensed here and I am attempting to heed your advice.

If anyone else has ideas or thoughts, please share them.

I am looking at this job very closely as it would be highly profitable, and if possible I want to do it. But I don't want a mess either. Catch 22?

 

[nhfire77]

I think, given that these are seniors, and that they are propping the doors open, you aren't likely to have too many issues. They won't be touching these doors once they're held open, they don't want to be bothered with them, that's why they've been propping them open.

Years ago we did a similar job only the entire job was in 500 wiremold, so everything was surface mounted. Never had a single call back for crushed in/pulled out holders, using standard toggle bolts on 5/8" rock.

Good luck.

The doors are to their private units, so there is the potential for the door to be held open often, but they all don't do it, and they are mostly old weak women. I'm trying to rationalize it here.

 

[iwire]

I'm assuming these are metal studs. I like to drill with a 1/2" hole saw in the center of the stud and have the toggle bolt grab the metal when I'm mounting something heavy on drywall.

I used to do that, now I have switched to Hilti Togglers for doing the same thing, the 1/4" x 20 version only requires a 1/2" dia. hole to be drilled, that leave a lot more of the stud in tact and the togglers hold themselves in if you decided to take the item back off the wall.

 

[Dave58er]

I used to do that, now I have switched to Hilti Togglers for doing the same thing, the 1/4" x 20 version only requires a 1/2" dia. hole to be drilled, that leave a lot more of the stud in tact and the togglers hold themselves in if you decided to take the item back off the wall.

Just checked the web site for those, looks pretty slick. I will have to start stocking those instead of standard toggles.

I am a fan of all things hilti for the most part. Ever notice how frustrating it is when you get used to using a Hilti product, and then in a pinch you have to use the product you used to use.

You think, "How did anyone ever do it like this and make money?". :grin:

For me it's the hps anchor. When I see a box of those green molly anchors I want to toss 'em in the garbage.