How long to run and pull a feeder?

[bfrosty]

EMT weights

EMT weights

http://www.republic-conduit.com/default/Download/EMT Electrical Steel Conduit.pdf

 

[LarryFine]

FWIW I would look into using MC cable for this but thats just me and my crazy fetish for cable.

It's gotta weigh a ton. How would you support it? Minnies again?

"Captain Kirk, I sall consider it!" ~ Spock with a beard in Mirror, Mirror

 

[LarryFine]

Just make sure your help is as big as you are.

Larry's charming wife?

My better third?

I will have my son working for the heavy stuff.

 

[iwire]

It's gotta weigh a ton. How would you support it? Minnies again?

About 4 lbs a foot, I won't lie, it takes some effort to put in but when it's in your done.

Yeah minnis would be fine no more than 6' apart, but I would try to go over the truss.

I would have to look it over before I would decide, it can be a bear and if it's an area with delicate things around pipe may be a safer choice.

FWIW we would generally run 2" EMT for the feeder you describe, there is a large price jump from 2" to 2.5" Either way I see no way you will hand pull this and once your using a puller who cares if it has to work harder.

 

[LarryFine]

About 4 lbs a foot, I won't lie, it takes some effort to put in but when it's in your done.

How does the materials cost compare? I presume you would charge the same for labor either way?

Yeah minnis would be fine no more than 6' apart, but I would try to go over the truss.

Still sounds like a lot of work. That would take me 19' up and more material length.

Is there a pulley sized for 4-0/4 MC?

I would have to look it over before I would decide, it can be a bear and if it's an area with delicate things around pipe may be a safer choice.

I'm not the engineer on this job. They didn't ask my opinion, but I will suggest the owner looks into using MC.

FWIW we would generally run 2" EMT for the feeder you describe, there is a large price jump from 2" to 2.5" Either way I see no way you will hand pull this and once your using a puller who cares if it has to work harder.

A puller will be used for sure. Again, I didn't pick the conduit size.

 

[iwire]

How does the materials cost compare? I presume you would charge the same for labor either way?

I don't get to see many real numbers, I can just tell what is cheaper by my bosses face. I believe MC will come out cheaper overall.

Still sounds like a lot of work. That would take me 19' up and more material length.

Yes.

Is there a pulley sized for 4-0/4 MC?

Yes, we have quite a few.

I'm not the engineer on this job. They didn't ask my opinion, but I will suggest the owner looks into using MC.

A puller will be used for sure. Again, I didn't pick the conduit size.

I see, then you may just go with what they ask for. I was thinking more of a design build situation.

 

[growler]

I'm not the engineer on this job. They didn't ask my opinion, but I will suggest the owner looks into using MC.

I wouldn't do that because they may agree to it. They may also offer to furnish some help to install it.

A little over a 100 ft of 2 1/2" EMT is a cake walk if it's run straight enough. Pulling it in with a tugger should be easy with lube to protect the cable. If you can come up with a couple of big guys or three smaller ones to feed it and keep it straight it should be a breeze. Sounds like you have an open area to roll out the cable.

Once they spec a job in conduit there is no reason to talk yourself out of money. We shouldn't stop running conduit until they pry it from our cold dead hands.

 

[220/221]

I'd bid it for 2 guys/3-4 days but I think I could do it easily all in two.

There is something about that trough system I personally don't like so I'd go with a main panel and sub or feed thru/double lugs.

4/0-4 copper MC is a stock item in my area.

Damn!! I think it would destroy the grid at some point.


And the 3/8 rod is no problem as long as is is attached correctly to the trusses.

 

[LarryFine]

Conduit it is!

And the 3/8 rod is no problem as long as is is attached correctly to the trusses.

I figured, from the top down, two nuts, a washer, the truss' bottom angles, a washer, and a nut. At the bottom, a nut, the hanger, a washer, and a nut.

If it was lighter, and I could use 1/4" all-thread, I'd probably go with toggle-bolt wings, the truss, a washer, and a nut.

Suggestions?

 

[LarryFine]

http://www.republic-conduit.com/default/Download/EMT Electrical Steel Conduit.pdf

Thanx, and sorry I missed it.

What about the wires?

 

[220/221]

I figured, from the top down, two nuts, a washer, the truss' bottom angles, a washer, and a nut. At the bottom, a nut, the hanger, a washer, and a nut.

Beautiful

If it was lighter, and I could use 1/4" all-thread, I'd probably go with toggle-bolt wings, the truss, a washer, and a nut.

Maybe if it was 1/2" emt. I don't dig the tiny little tabs that hold the toggle nut in place. I like to put a wrench to things in a manly fashion

 

[iwire]

I agree with 220 about the toggles.

Here is a trick you could use.

Get this type of 3/8 beam clamp

Take the bolt out of it and install a 6' threaded rod in it's place. Now get on your ladder hold the threaded rod by the end and hook the beam clamp on the truss. Get channel locks or vice grips and tighten the rod up to hold the clamp in place. Now obviously this does reduce the clamps overall capacity but you are not using them nearly to capacity this way and you will never have to get up as high as the truss.

 

[220/221]

^ Not as secure as a simple thru bolt method. It might slip off in a disaster or get knocked off by a fireman.

 

[daleuger]

I wouldn't do that because they may agree to it. They may also offer to furnish some help to install it.

A little over a 100 ft of 2 1/2" EMT is a cake walk if it's run straight enough. Pulling it in with a tugger should be easy with lube to protect the cable. If you can come up with a couple of big guys or three smaller ones to feed it and keep it straight it should be a breeze. Sounds like you have an open area to roll out the cable.

Once they spec a job in conduit there is no reason to talk yourself out of money. We shouldn't stop running conduit until they pry it from our cold dead hands.

AMEN! You're preachin to the choir!:grin:

 

[LarryFine]

I agree with 220 about the toggles.

Here is a trick you could use.

Get this type of 3/8 beam clamp

Take the bolt out of it and install a 6' threaded rod in it's place. Now get on your ladder hold the threaded rod by the end and hook the beam clamp on the truss. Get channel locks or vice grips and tighten the rod up to hold the clamp in place. Now obviously this does reduce the clamps overall capacity but you are not using them nearly to capacity this way and you will never have to get up as high as the truss.

Cool idea! Are the bolts 3/8" or are they only 1/4"? I'll have to check some tomorrow.

Jamming two nuts together gives you an easy way to grip and turn the rod, by the way.

 

[LarryFine]

^ Not as secure as a simple thru bolt method. It might slip off in a disaster or get knocked off by a fireman.

They'd have to be on 12' ladders to reach the conduit.

 

[Rockyd]

Larry,

3/8" will hold about 600 pounds of static deadweight. Makes it just about right for this job .

 

[iwire]

^ Not as secure as a simple thru bolt method. It might slip off in a disaster or get knocked off by a fireman.

Try it, if you 'put a wrench to in a manly fashion' they will not slip off.

 

[bfrosty]

81.4 lbs. per 100ft. of 4/0
12.7 lbs. per 100 ft. of 4

I'd say you are in the clear.

There is a link to the wire weight calculator prior to the above post, and you are welcome.

 

[bfrosty]

http://circuitcalculator.com/wordpress/2007/09/20/wire-parameter-calculator/

Here is the calculator for wire weight.