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I don't place any faith in those volt ticks....they lie lie lie lie LIE. I could go off on a very long rant of how many things are wrong with this "expert" but I don't think I have to.
 
daleuger said:
I don't place any faith in those volt ticks....they lie lie lie lie LIE. I could go off on a very long rant of how many things are wrong with this "expert" but I don't think I have to.
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They could only fail in either one of two ways: to indicate voltage where none exists, and to fail to indicate voltage where it does exist.

The former isn't a real danger, and the latter is eliminated by first testing a known hot, the wire under test, and the known-hot again.
 
I like how he stresses you have to have a fiberglass ladder, as they pan down to show the rug and laminate floor that it's sitting on.
 
LarryFine said:
They could only fail in either one of two ways: to indicate voltage where none exists, and to fail to indicate voltage where it does exist.

The former isn't a real danger, and the latter is eliminated by first testing a known hot, the wire under test, and the known-hot again.
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Yeah I still don't like them as much as a lot of people do.
 
I've seen Eric in action before, and I have a great deal of respect for his professional talent. He was a cast member of one of the Home Improvement shows. I think it was "Designed to Sell." He was the lead carpenter.

(Edited to add emphasis to that last sentence. Nobody seemed to notice it.):wink:
 
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Yeah the next time I swap out a light fixture in a house I'll make sure I bring my safety glasses, high V gloves, and a rubber mat to put under my ladder :cool:
 
daleuger said:
Yeah I still don't like them as much as a lot of people do.
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It's never the only tester I use, it's more of a preliminary one; I still double-check with my K-60.

The advantage of a non-contact tester is that it tests agains the world, whereas the solenoid tester tests against another conductor.

The former is more likely to shock us unexpectedly.
 
LarryFine said:
They could only fail in either one of two ways: to indicate voltage where none exists, and to fail to indicate voltage where it does exist.

The former isn't a real danger, and the latter is eliminated by first testing a known hot, the wire under test, and the known-hot again.
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Some of these non contact detectors rely on a capacitive path to ground, through you, so standing on an insulated ladder or wearing EH rated boots can cuse them not to indicate voltage on a live circuit.

The other type of non-contact dector (Commonly refered to as a tick tracer) senses an electric field, and therefore can gove false negatives on 3 phase systems where the conductors are close together, the 3 voltages, 120 degrees apart, and thier resultant fields cancel eack other out.

While I agree that a live-dead-live test is very important to do every time, and will prevent most accidents related to voltage testing, it would not prevent a false negative in either of these cases.
 
As I said (or meant to), I never test with just the N/C tester and presume it's dead. But, it reads through wirenuts. The K-60 is my most-used tester.

But, if I am getting a reading, it's the fastest way to find the right switch or breaker. I always double-check with the K-60, line-to-ground and line-to-line.

I will say that, so far, I've never had an N/C tester fail to read a real voltage. The one I use is a Greenlee green-bodied (of course) tester.
 
why is it that every time on tv they always show carpenters doing electrical work and when they need plumbing done some master plumber shows up

these so called carpenters need to stick to there own trade
 
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