Need a cheap motor exerciser

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Run a small line with an orifice from your icemaker and connect it to the shaft to flush the seal.
 
Besoeker said:
Relpol do one that does from a is range to a 10 day range.
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There are all kinds of micro-PLC's and smart relays here, too, but they don't appear to have any in the same category as the ST01.

I have an ST01 installed in a bell box with a weatherproof spring-loaded flip-up cover cut into a 6ft. extension cord that comes in handy for timed applications. It can be done using a smart relay and similar assembly parts, but it's just more difficult and not as easy to operate.
 
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Smart $ said:
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I have an ST01 installed in a bell box...
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I've used the Canfield MBT-1000-00 for similar needs ... see http://www.canfieldconnector.com/pr...shx?guid=7f6bfdd5-3e53-40ca-bef6-1e4e51853136 if the link works. Depending on source, it is between $50 and $100. You would need a relay for your motor load; we energized solenoid valves directly.

Automation Direct has the $74.00 CTT series which will give you 1 second resolution to 11 days, or 6 second (0.1 minute) to 69 days. Again, you'd probably need a relay. I've not used it.
 
If there is a domestic water line close- How about a trap primer that slowly drips water?

No long term standing water and you get the motor going every few days. Maybe you aren't a plumber :angel:
 
How about you throw away the one that doesn't last through a dry season and go buy a different brand?
 
pump

pump

Besoeker said:
Sounds like a timer would work.
I wouldn't have thought it prudent to run it for more than a few seconds when dry. Those that I've come across don't like to be run dry.
How often? Maybe you could base that on how often you were giving it a manual start in the dry.
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Be sure the timer can be set to just run a few seconds. Most will not run shorter than a minute or two minimum.
You can get relays called "interval on relays" that can be set for shorter times I think.
 
zstarch said:
If the dry spell is summer, maybe run the condensate from your AC into it to keep it moist and occasionally operating?
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Since the sump has a gravel bottom, chances are the condensate will just drain away when the water table is low.
You would have to give it a solid timed flow of water to raise the float switch.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
zstarch said:
Be sure the timer can be set to just run a few seconds. Most will not run shorter than a minute or two minimum.
You can get relays called "interval on relays" that can be set for shorter times I think.
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The one I suggested has ranges from one second to ten days.
 
nhfire77 said:
If there is a domestic water line close- How about a trap primer that slowly drips water?

No long term standing water and you get the motor going every few days. Maybe you aren't a plumber :angel:
Click to expand...

I would have to run a 1/2 line to get the kind of flow needed to start the pump.

When the sump is dry it drains quickly if you try to add water.
 
mgookin said:
How about you throw away the one that doesn't last through a dry season and go buy a different brand?
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I have lived in the house 17 years, have gone through two submersible pumps and about four years ago I decided to get the motors up out of the water. Seemed to make sense.

The pump seems to be well constructed, it's heavy case iron with stainless hardware which has allowed disassembly without damage. When it's spring the pump moves hundreds of gallons a day.

I am happy with it, high flow, good float switch set up, quiet. Not looking to replace it until the motor smokes.
 
nhfire77 said:
If there is a domestic water line close- How about a trap primer that slowly drips water?

No long term standing water and you get the motor going every few days. Maybe you aren't a plumber :angel:
Click to expand...

mbrooke said:
How old is this pump?

I am with others, it might be best to just keep the sump full.
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GoldDigger said:
Since the sump has a gravel bottom, chances are the condensate will just drain away when the water table is low.
You would have to give it a solid timed flow of water to raise the float switch.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Set the pump in a solid walled container within the gravel base of existing well. Then the naturally entering water will flow into this container when the rate exceeds absorption rate. If you want longer run time you need a larger container. Sump wells designed for septic purposes would work great, but leave the lid off and bury it nearly flush in the bottom of the gravel sump. If you want it to run regularly during dry season all you need is a 1/4 or even 1/8 inch water supply tube running slowly to fill this "sub sump", whenever it is full enough to operate the float switch it will pump it down and start the cycle all over again. Regulate how often it cycles by opening or closing the water supply valve - altering the flow rate.
 
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