Need a cheap motor exerciser

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Besoeker said:
It seems that his goal was being achieved by manual activation except the odd occasion when he was absent minded.
A couple of us have suggested a commercially available relay that would replicate what he was doing - without the memory lapses.
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You seem to one of the few that actually read the OPs posts.:D

I saw you suggested a relay, I don't live in the UK so I am more likely to go with a suggestion I can get here with out much todo.
 
How are you going to connect any timer "cheaply" without starting to make it look like Dan's installation in post 85?:)

You can't just put something on the supply cord - you have to bypass the float switch to make it run.

Other option is some mechanical device that pulls the float at the desired interval, don't think that will exactly be cheap either though, still need a timer and some sort of actuator.
 
kwired said:
How are you going to connect any timer "cheaply" without starting to make it look like Dan's installation in post 85?:)

You can't just put something on the supply cord - you have to bypass the float switch to make it run.

Other option is some mechanical device that pulls the float at the desired interval, don't think that will exactly be cheap either though, still need a timer and some sort of actuator.
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Cheap is relative to the damage. An 'O Heck' is cheaper than a '??@%!!' in my opinion.
 
ptonsparky said:
Cheap is relative to the damage. An 'O Heck' is cheaper than a '??@%!!' in my opinion.
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You have a point, cheap is at a different level to different people. One can easily install a timing device to do what Bob wants done that costs more then the pump it controls. Some may not consider that to be cheap. But it still might be cheap compared to the damage it may prevent.

A high water alarm system might be cheap, when considering the damages it may save from happening as it will alert you to more then just this bearing seizure problem that he frequently encounters.
 
If the float switch in is a small enclosure with a spare 1/2" KO, you may attach a hp rated RIB relay there and CL-2 cable for the rest of it. If the float switch only offer a moulded cord, cut the cord and parallel the relay contacts hanging in the air (see previous photo). Black tape is a box in some jurisdictions.
 

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__dan said:
If the float switch in is a small enclosure with a spare 1/2" KO, you may attach a hp rated RIB relay there and CL-2 cable for the rest of it. If the float switch only offer a moulded cord, cut the cord and parallel the relay contacts hanging in the air (see previous photo). Black tape is a box in some jurisdictions.
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Why are you supporting/encouraging a potentially dangerous setup? Anything flying in mid air is self explanatory.


Also, black tape. Excluding some hospital specs, wrapping devices/wire nuts in tape is only mentioned in DIY books so such work can be identified if there is ever need be.
 
kwired said:
Ok, I can understand your mess on your own home project, but now you are sounding like you might just be the owner or a moderator of a DIY/handyman forum.
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I thought that was the intent, to give it that hokey homeowner vibe to the project :happyyes:. jk

I am getting so much mileage out of the previous photo ...

The heating system works per the manufacturers instructions with a 400 gallon HW storage tank to absorb the remaining heat in the fuel when the house is not calling and the wood combustion process cannot be shutdown (it can, but slumbering is bad). Proper shutdown is complete burning and exhaustion of the fuel load.

The 400 gallon pressurized HW storage tank is planned and tapped but not installed. It is another $2500 :blink:.

The control system with the tank includes an AB micro 800 smart relay and some LM35 chips to make an auto heat scavenging relay. I bought the micro 800 but that's as far as I got.

The basement radiant slab is slaved to the boiler circ and presents constant low load to the boiler to avoid slumbering. Basement slab is the storage, the heat battery. The Froling has two computer controlled Belimo operators for primary and secondary air with an O2 lamda sensor. It has a modulating firing rate turndown that makes the system work, it matches firing rate to the load. The the complete design will heat the storage tank which then matches to the load. It works perfectly at this time so ... the storage tank and the micro 800 are in the future.

The photos are of an incomplete job.
 
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iwire said:
So in my own basement I have a sump pump that must work during certain times of the year, other times the sump is dry for months at a time.

This is the kind of pump I am using.

p_SCP_245_08.jpg



The problem that has now happened three times is that during the dry time the shaft gets tight in the bottom bushing. I have to pull the pump out, open the impeller housing and turn it by hand a bit then I can get the motor running.

The only reason I have not burned up the motor yet is because I do check the pump pretty often and had gotten in the habit of manually running it dry for short periods of time. I will let too much time go and when I try it out it will not turn.

So what I am thinking (I am open to any suggestions / mickey mouse ideas as long as they are cheap. :) ) is setting up a timer that will run the pump maybe 15 seconds every few days or a week not really sure how often. I don't want to kill the pump over doing it either.

Anyway this being in my own home codes and listings are down low on the priority list, function over form is fine.

TIA, Bob
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Pull on the float rod every few day. That would be the cheapest option.

Set an alarm on your phone so you don't forget.
 
chris1971 said:
Pull on the float rod every few day. That would be the cheapest option.

Set an alarm on your phone so you don't forget.
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Run a string upstairs. Tug that string periodically.
Use the phone to tell you when to pull the string.

There you go.
You get to keep your old cranky sump pump.
You did not have to spend a lot of money.
You have a timer.
What else could you ask for? :)
 
mgookin said:
Yeah I read that.
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That's what's most important.:)

And when I asked him for specs on what he wants he beats me up.
He wants a timer but when I ask what the load is I'm an idiot.
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Bob doesn't think your an idiot. He's just to the point like me. What he is saying is this is such simple load it's like sizing something for a light switch and that depth of analysis is not needed.
 
I wonder if anyone has mentioned a sprinkler clock, or dumping a bucket of water in the sump every now and then to keep the seals fresh? Also, you want to be careful about running a pump dry.







:lol:
 
170108-2408 EST

There are still no parameters specified for "cheap", motor on time range, and time range for the time period between motor on times, cycling time.

Nothing at all for cheap.
One value for on time, 15 seconds.
I am not sure about the cycle period, but possibly it was 1 week.
Do the times need to be adjustable?

Definition of cheap is a very important factor.

.
 
George Stolz said:
I wonder if anyone has mentioned a sprinkler clock, or dumping a bucket of water in the sump every now and then to keep the seals fresh? Also, you want to be careful about running a pump dry.







:lol:
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You could always read through the 115 posts. :lol:
 
ActionDave said:
That's what's most important.:)



Bob doesn't think your an idiot. He's just to the point like me. What he is saying is this is such simple load it's like sizing something for a light switch and that depth of analysis is not needed.
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Contact rating of the timer and the size of motor involved aren't important in determining what to use here?

Most timers I can think of that will only operate their output for a few seconds and then have a recycle time in the "days" range will not have a very high contact rating. Most of them also will cost as much or more then the pump being used after you factor in a contactor and other accessories plus an enclosure to house all of it in, so we need to know what OP's definition of cheap in regards to this installation is as well. Though handing all the components from the conductors and not putting them in an enclosure will save some money;)
 
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