nolox or not oxide inhibitor questions

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More from Southwire, somewhat conflicting

http://www.southwire.com/documents/SIMpullTHHNInstallationandApplicationGuide8-15-07.pdf


When terminating aluminum conductors, there are several practices one should be aware of to ensure a
quality connection that will remain trouble free.

1) Always use a connector that is listed for use with aluminum wire.

2) The following is recommended but not required. Always follow the connector manufacturer?s
instructions

a. The surface of the conductor should be wire-brushed to break any aluminum oxide
barrier leaving a clean surface for the connection.

b. The use of anti-oxidant compound, joint compound, is not required unless the
connector?s manufacturer requires it. However, the use of a listed joint compound is
always a good practice.
Click to expand...
 
I know for a fact that the alloy type can change the metal's properties significantly. I used to work in an aerospace research facility and later in an aluminum die cast facility. Plain old aluminum, not alloyed, is pretty much worthless. It's not real strong, very brittle and oxidizes very quickly. Take a look at the properties of aluminum wire (nice, soft, flexible) and aircraft grade structural aluminum (super tough, not much flexibility) and aluminum used for exposed structures (very high resistance to oxidation).

The above is for anyone reluctant to try today's Al. The EC I work for won't do it, he is not convinced that the new stuff is any better than the old. To him, Al is Al. Period, which is not so.
 
BTW, it's called noalox, not nolox. That's because it's short for No Aluminum Oxidation.

And I've seen people who don't know what they're doing use it with copper when no aluminum was around.
 
nolox good for everthing

nolox good for everthing

When ever I come across a outdoor meter or outdoor connections, the screws with nolox usually unscrew, those without usually strip out.
I use nolox for thread lubricant, gasket sealer, boat-connectors, mouse/bug poison, screw anti-seize compound, anti-rust lube, any outdoor nut that I wish to remove later. Painters sheild covering. In a pinch, I have even used it in replacement for bearing grease, got the job done for the day.

If the customer is watching, it seem like you actually:D know what you are doing.

If the customers are "HELPING" then I "ACCIDENTALLY" get some on thier hands some-how or another.
 
stickboy1375 said:
To be honest, i use it more on lightbulbs outside to keep them from seizing up in the socket. :)
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noalox has suspended zinc particles in it , i belive zinc is conductive . ive never used it for light bulbs . i tried "never seize" on them with a less than stellar outcome . it had suspended zinc in it and when the buib got warm it caused the never seize to run down the socket and caused a short between the center contact and the threads that was somewhat hard to find

so i tried this stuff made by trucklite , i "borrowed" it from a truck tech in the shop , its basically a dielectric grease that non conductive but seals out moisture
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wc...10001&storeId=10001&productId=23656&langId=-1


it seems to work very well so far

so have we reached a concensus (sP) on the use of noalox or similar products ?
 
socalelect said:
noalox has suspended zinc particles in it , i belive zinc is conductive . ive never used it for light bulbs . i tried "never seize" on them with a less than stellar outcome . it had suspended zinc in it and when the buib got warm it caused the never seize to run down the socket and caused a short between the center contact and the threads that was somewhat hard to find

so i tried this stuff made by trucklite , i "borrowed" it from a truck tech in the shop , its basically a dielectric grease that non conductive but seals out moisture
http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wc...10001&storeId=10001&productId=23656&langId=-1


it seems to work very well so far

so have we reached a concensus (sP) on the use of noalox or similar products ?
Click to expand...

For light bulbs, you should use REAL bulb grease (made right here in my hometown, Muskegon, Michigan.)

View attachment 6037

This is not a spoof. AGS = American Grease Stick.

http://www.agscompany.com/
 
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K8mhz the truck light stuff is basically a higher quality bulb grease . i do use bulb grease as well . they just dont stock the little packets from autozone in the shop . i have a little pint can of the trucklite NYK stuff it works perfect to just dip the base in to
 
socalelect said:
K8mhz the truck light stuff is basically a higher quality bulb grease . i do use bulb grease as well . they just dont stock the little packets from autozone in the shop . i have a little pint can of the trucklite NYK stuff it works perfect to just dip the base in to
Click to expand...

I think that Syl-Glyde from AGS is basically the same as their bulb grease and comes in bigger packages. (tubes) I use Syl-Glyde for bulbs on occasion and have had good luck with it. (I got a big tube free when I did some photography for the company)

View attachment 6038
 
K8MHZ said:
I think that Syl-Glyde from AGS is basically the same as their bulb grease and comes in bigger packages. (tubes) I use Syl-Glyde for bulbs on occasion and have had good luck with it. (I got a big tube free when I did some photography for the company)

View attachment 6038
Click to expand...

SIl glide i have a tube of that floating in the truck somewhere our local carquest used to stock it and so did we but i havent seen it floating in the stock room for awhile
 
Just my two cents worth.From RUS bulletins. I realize this has nothing to do with NEC applications, but most POCO's are required to use it. How many actually do is anybodys guess...
"All conductors shall be cleaned thoroughly by wirebrushing befor splicing or installing connectors or clamps. A suitable inhibitor shall be used before splicing or applying connectors over aluminum conductor."

Here is some good(?) reading.

http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_installing_aluminum_building/
 
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