Pulling Heads

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Have used the ones Don shows for years, also when using Kellums drill holes and laced tywire through, then always the hand made reduced head with or without a swivel eye. Never used those new crimp on type.
 
infinity said:
Those were our grips of choice before the crimp on ones were available at so little cost. I can remember pulling 750kcmil copper risers with those up 20 stories with those without failure. For larger conductors there is quite a bit of prep time because you need to remove several layers of the conductor strands but they never fail when installed correctly. We've actually had to remove the set screws and use the Super Tugger to get them off at times. The Kellum type grips don't seem to work well with the super slick conductors like SIM-pull unless you spend the time putting on layers of tape and tie wire the end.
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It doesn't take much time if you strip it long, fold the outside strands out, and cut the center strands off. Fold the outer strands back in and slide them into the grip. Yes a bit longer than just stripping the conductor and sliding it into the grip and tightening the set screws, but no where near as long as making a head on the conductors.
 
Given what larger cable sizes cost per foot in copper, and with labor involved too, I can definitely see having the crimped on heads installed for a small fee by the supply house
 
ptonsparky said:
We generally use a pulling sock for larger runs. Individual Kellum grips for smaller ones that won’t work with the sock. The crimp ons are great, especially when using the extra slick insulation available now.
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I've seen crimp ons at supply houses but haven't used them.
 
Pulling Heads

JFletcher said:
Given what larger cable sizes cost per foot in copper, and with labor involved too, I can definitely see having the crimped on heads installed for a small fee by the supply house
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I have yet to work for a company that is willing to pay that additional fee


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Pulling Heads

Anyone ever see the new way they send reel within a reel, there is no set up of greener jack stands, just chuck outer reel and start pulling.?

https://youtu.be/ofNP_ht73gE
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jusme123 said:
Anyone ever see the new way they send reel within a reel, there is no set up of greener jack stands, just chuck outer reel and start pulling.?

https://youtu.be/ofNP_ht73gE
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Click to expand...

Very cool... Is there a core charge on that reel system? Any idea how much more it weighs than a standard reel?

Edited to add... it probably comes out cheaper even with aluminum, especially if you have one or two guys making up heads and two guys basically standing around. I haven't priced 350 or larger MCM copper in quite a while, last time I priced 500 I think it was something like $18 per foot.. losing basically a foot off of three runs would have been half the cost of the heads right there, minus labor
 
jusme123 said:
Anyone ever see the new way they send reel within a reel, there is no set up of greener jack stands, just chuck outer reel and start pulling.?

https://youtu.be/ofNP_ht73gE
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Not that one but a metal one that had slots for individual conductors, sweet setup, except they didn’t tie down the end of the conductors and towards the end it became a mess and wasn’t fixable after it was to late.
 
I have used all of the methods here along with another set screw type I call a bullet, they are bigger around so they have to be right for the conduit. Also one that isn't mentioned here that is the best method except the ones supplied on the cable by Southwire. They are made by Maxis, which is now Southwire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxIUCrpJBoc
 
jusme123 said:
I have yet to work for a company that is willing to pay that additional fee


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Some only see additional materials on the billing and don't consider what labor might be saved. Extra copper -that may or may not matter anyway depending on how much extra was ordered to begin with. Having 10 feet extra on a run of larger conductors is waste to some extent, but costs less than being two feet too short and having to get new conductors to replace them with.
 
kwired said:
Some only see additional materials on the billing and don't consider what labor might be saved. Extra copper -that may or may not matter anyway depending on how much extra was ordered to begin with. Having 10 feet extra on a run of larger conductors is waste to some extent, but costs less than being two feet too short and having to get new conductors to replace them with.
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Or they think they can pull that extra 5 feet they need for the neutral only because its termination is on the top, and they spend two hours doing it.
 
kwired said:
Some only see additional materials on the billing and don't consider what labor might be saved. Extra copper -that may or may not matter anyway depending on how much extra was ordered to begin with. Having 10 feet extra on a run of larger conductors is waste to some extent, but costs less than being two feet too short and having to get new conductors to replace them with.
Click to expand...


Every feeder I have ever estimated included 15' for makeup (7 1/2' per end)
 
Strathead said:
I have used all of the methods here along with another set screw type I call a bullet, they are bigger around so they have to be right for the conduit. Also one that isn't mentioned here that is the best method except the ones supplied on the cable by Southwire. They are made by Maxis, which is now Southwire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxIUCrpJBoc
Click to expand...

I’ve used the maxis grips, great setup, pulled for months with thoses, never lost a wire.

The maxis jack-stands are not worth the money. Although they do work decent, the ball bearings can’t take the beating from the heavy reels, and wear out/crush too quickly. JMO


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