Range plug

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I feel I remember, needs to have a drawer so you can disconnect the plug.. no drawer then breaker has to be within sight and lockable...
in UK they have switches with lights that we use for ranges... lovely things.. helps keep the grandsons from turning the ranges on as they play...
 
What Jumper said and the requirement is not new. I perused the 2005 NEC and the requirement was there.
 
There is nothing saying you can't put a receptacle for the range/stove behind it. The rule only states that if it has a removable drawer the the cord/plug can be the disconnect. If no drawer or access then a separate disconnect is needed which can be the breaker if a lockable means is added.
 
I want to add that a locking device is only required if the breaker or switch is not in sight of the appliance.

I have never once seen these rules enforced or had it even mentioned by any inspector...neither the AHJ nor home inspector. I guess they assume the range drawer space is always open at the back of all ranges...definitely not the case. If the drawer is a "warming drawer" which is a fairly common feature, it's unlikely the back is open.

IMO the same disconnect rules should apply to refrigerators (422.33(A) and 422.31) since the accessibility of the plug is the same or even more difficult with refrigerators. But that's another one I have never seen enforced or mentioned by inspectors.
 
Robo1214 said:
Does anybody know if there is a new code that says you cannot put the range plug behind the range
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Going to play devils advocate here and ask what the OP considers a "range plug". If it is the 40A/240V supply for an electric range then the previous replies about a removable drawer are correct.

But, the OP could be referring to a 120V receptacle for the ignitors and controls for a gas range. There were changes to the code that now require that to be GFCI'd and if you use a GFCI receptacle it has to be accessible.

-Hal
 
hbiss said:
But, the OP could be referring to a 120V receptacle for the ignitors and controls for a gas range. There were changes to the code that now require that to be GFCI'd and if you use a GFCI receptacle it has to be accessible.
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What code section requires that?
 
Craigv said:
I want to add that a locking device is only required if the breaker or switch is not in sight of the appliance.

I have never once seen these rules enforced or had it even mentioned by any inspector...neither the AHJ nor home inspector. I guess they assume the range drawer space is always open at the back of all ranges...definitely not the case. If the drawer is a "warming drawer" which is a fairly common feature, it's unlikely the back is open.

IMO the same disconnect rules should apply to refrigerators (422.33(A) and 422.31) since the accessibility of the plug is the same or even more difficult with refrigerators. But that's another one I have never seen enforced or mentioned by inspectors.
Click to expand...

Warming drawers are usually removable and accessible to the plug area, at least on the ones I have been looking at lately. Even the gas ones.

Also, concerning the gas stoves needing GFCI outlet.. Just like other cases, run the gfci as a breaker and done. Or find an outlet that is gfci'd to run the power from.. gas strikers don't need much power.
 
LarryFine said:
No, but they can wreak havoc with GFCI's as they spark to ground.
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I'm curious.

What does the electronics that produce the spark to ground have anything to do with affecting the operation of a GFCI ?

JAP>
 
hbiss said:
Going to play devils advocate here and ask what the OP considers a "range plug". If it is the 40A/240V supply for an electric range then the previous replies about a removable drawer are correct.

But, the OP could be referring to a 120V receptacle for the ignitors and controls for a gas range. There were changes to the code that now require that to be GFCI'd and if you use a GFCI receptacle it has to be accessible.

-Hal
Click to expand...

What code states you need a GFCI for gas range receptacle? I think you thinking if its with in 6’ from the edge of the sink, it needs GFCI protection but I don’t think so if not.
 
jap said:
What does the electronics that produce the spark to ground have anything to do with affecting the operation of a GFCI ?
Click to expand...
I believe that, because the igniter sparks to the chassis of the range, anything less than perfect electrical isolation of the power supply can be seen as a low-current fault to ground.
 
Adamjamma said:
Warming drawers are usually removable and accessible to the plug area, at least on the ones I have been looking at lately. Even the gas ones.
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The Samsung in my kitchen has no access. Remove the warming drawer, and there's a solid sheet of steel blocking you. Makes sense as you don't want the chance of the cord winding up in the "warming" space. We use that drawer exactly twice a year....xmas and Thanksgiving dinners....and I have no idea how hot it gets, but wouldn't want the cord "warmed"....:D
 
lordofthisworld said:
What code states you need a GFCI for gas range receptacle? I think you thinking if its with in 6’ from the edge of the sink, it needs GFCI protection but I don’t think so if not.
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If I remember a Holt slide, or it may have been elsewhere... the stove was shown as below the countertop- and no gfci required was put on it... but, I know it should trip AFCI because AFCI is designed to trip if a circuit does exactly what the igniter is doing-Arcing.

That said, for gas, a disconnect of 20 amps above the stove and countertop, marked for the stove, preferably fused, is what I would want... In UK I have a switched cooker switch, well marked and out of reach of kids but easily reached by a cook.
 
Craigv said:
IMO the same disconnect rules should apply to refrigerators (422.33(A) and 422.31) since the accessibility of the plug is the same or even more difficult with refrigerators. But that's another one I have never seen enforced or mentioned by inspectors.
Click to expand...


So we've all our Art 422 -Part III. Disconnecting Means concerns to meet, as well as art 210.8 gfci requirements , as well as 210.12's afci requirements (dwellings)

then this new jem came along>

N 422.5 (B) Type. The GFCI shall be readily accessible, listed, and
located in one or more of the following locations:
Click to expand...

along with the debate of gfci's under the sink , etc

add in we may have refers, dish, pig, compactor, range, micro, hood, some requiring 110.25's lockability

my Q is does the newly highlighted 422.31A's last sentence here>
where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the
appliance or is lockable in accordance with 110.25.
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cover all concerns if a small kitchen sub panel is w/in sight of the kitchen (lockable) & full of DF's

OR, would this already be addressed via 422.34's ABCD 'other disconnecting means'......?

~RJ~
 
more I see these questions come up the more I am thinking that since the kitchen isnt built in my retirement home yet, I need to just figure putting a sub panel into it... but then I have the sub panel looking all ugly on the walls of the kitchen..lol...
 
GFCI for range tripping

GFCI for range tripping

I can see where that would happen, as even though the neutral and hot are separate, there is the RFI that feeds back if the equipment is not properly designed with a line filter. That has nothing to do with the ground, it has to do with a problem with a faulty igniter. All electrical equipment is suppose to be designed to isolate the incoming line from the output circuit. That is not always followed, and there are many examples of this shown in disambly on YouTube. One such thing is a 240v shower head that heats the water, and this would never be allowed according to UL code. That is because the heating element is in direct contact with the water, instead of a grounded shell with insulation inside covering the resistive element.

Some of the simpler CD circuits do not use a small isolation transformer to isolate the line from the output but this would not pass UL code, and will also trip a GFCI. This is one of the main reasons to make sure that when people buy things that they are UL approved. I know of many things people can get away with in China that would never pass here, and would result in a company being closed. Such as the frame of a machine being 70volts above ground.

Basically I am saying just because someone bought something as we know does not mean that it is made to code and safe always.
 
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