Receptacles for RV's

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Adamjamma said:
So you are for, based upon the above statement, gfci requirements on the stove outlet and the dryer outlet... simply because they are less than say..60 volts?
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Sure,,, why not?,,, Lets do em all.

JAP>
 
jap said:
You were foolish to think I was concerned about unplugging at an RV site so go eat a peanut butter pie and put a cork in it. :)

JAP>

JAP>
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I never thought you were actually concerned, you've just been intentionally obtuse, so I will have some pie but won't put a cork in it, they're tough to chew...:cool:
 
Craigv said:
I never thought you were actually concerned, you've just been intentionally obtuse, so I will have some pie but won't put a cork in it, they're tough to chew...:cool:
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And you're calling me obtuse. Hmmm.....

Jap>
 
Interesting topic.

kwired said:
....I would be more for requiring 30 or 100 mA protection for much of what they have added to 210.8. 5-15,5-20 cord caps - seen too many missing EGC pins on cords, class A protection is more important on those IMO, if one could assure those EGC pins don't get compromised I would be all for 30 or 100 mA protection on a lot of things that now require class A protection and save the class A for around swimming pools, bathrooms, and places where people may be more likely to be immersed in water. Even kitchen countertops I think 30 mA protection level would be sufficient, not like you crawl into a sink full of water like you do a tub or a pool.
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:thumbsup:
This is a great idea and I did not want it to get lost in the shuffle. I submitted a code amendment allowing this in Oregon back in the 2017 adoption cycle. They actually debated it then decided to keep the 2014 wording for 210.8(B). Note all breaker manufacturers that I have checked (Siemens, SDQ, CH ...etc) have two pole 30ma breakers available as the "RCD" spec used world wide.

I wonder has anyone here tried putting a GFCI on their own 50A RV receptacle? About 10 years ago, I had a left over 50A GFCI from a hottub that got demo'ed so I figured what the heck and put it on my RV receptacle.
Had a friend come stay and it popped right away.
Opened up his breaker box in his RV and he had the neutral bonded to the can.
Another observation I have over the years is that instead of the regular GFCI tripping in my RV the main GFCI blows.
I don't know if is due to the old 50A GFCI getting sensitive or what? Someone should do some extensive testing but it makes me think that a 30ma GFCI would be best as that would not kill the entire RV when a GFCI device is triggered in the RV.

I am sure we all have seen quite a few DIY cords/ adapters etc strung all over what are supposed to be 'Temporary' RV parks.

The most common problem I can for see at a 'public RV park' would be someone's kid contacting someone else's energized metal RV frame.

Craigv said:
....There is no way to anticipate the use of a receptacle....
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rv_adapter.jpg

Craigv said:
Exactly. As I wrote, we can't speculate how a receptacle will be used, but in an RV park, the only things plugged into 30's and 50's are RV's.
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I would not bet on that. Type RV adapter into your favorite online shopping site and sit back.
Great discussion
Cheers
 
hmm... if I recall right... it is kinda like using breakers... you may need to use a 100ma gfci just in case the rv has a 30 or less gfci or they will nuisance trip... saw that somewhere but cannot find the correct article. Or was it concerning nuisance trips on AFCI..lol... It was written a few years ago.
But, there seems to be not a lot of nuisance tripping in UK with the new requirements of RCD for whole house yet also RCD for outside cords.. given how many lawnmowers and yard gear is electric here, would expect to hear a load of complaints about it if there was a selectivity issue.

Well, got another thing to research now.
 
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