Are you seeing those with the power unit right above the door in residential applications? I don't think I ever have, but not impossible either I guess.SOP for me. But the issue now is where in the ceiling? There are openers where the motor sits right above the door opening.
Yes, they need to be GFCI protected. But installing a GFCI recep in the ceiling is not allowed, as it would require using a ladder to reset it in most installations. So by default, you'd want to line/load protect a standard recep from a GFCI recep or breaker elsewhere.
Are you seeing those with the power unit right above the door in residential applications? I don't think I ever have, but not impossible either I guess.
Otherwise yes, GFCI protection required (since 2008 I believe, maybe 2005, then the GFCI device was required to be readily accessible in the next code cycle)
Though I don't entirely agree with the readily accessible requirement for all GFCI's, I also don't think readily accessible was necessarily ever intended to apply to just panels.My garage has a fairly low ceiling, I am tall and can reach 8 ft. I can easily reach the GFCI test and reset buttons. The issue is taking the definition for readily accessible, meant for a panel and applying to a GFCI under a sink...
Quick questions:
Do you usually install receptacles on the ceiling for residential garage door openers?
If so it should be GFIC (I don't see an exception)?
My garage has a fairly low ceiling, I am tall and can reach 8 ft. I can easily reach the GFCI test and reset buttons. The issue is taking the definition for readily accessible, meant for a panel and applying to a GFCI under a sink...
Four things
4) I lied about there being 4 things
That just doesn't sound right, wireless yet needs wiresThey typically install a wireless light in center that needs 110.
That just doesn't sound right, wireless yet needs wires![]()
Technically the control method is what uses wireless, but yes I had assumed that - it was supposed to be funny.I think the remote is wireless
iDrive and the like have been used for over 10yrs now in residentialAre you seeing those with the power unit right above the door in residential applications? I don't think I ever have, but not impossible either I guess.
they have wireless controlled lights, the iDrive unit will signal remote light on/off as needed, thus you just need 120v power for the light, do not need on/off control wires.I think the remote is wireless
Is the remote light an actual luminaire they provide or a controller for your own luminaire?iDrive and the like have been used for over 10yrs now
this one sits about mid-way right on the torsion bar directly on the garage door header, etc.
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they have wireless controlled lights, the iDrive unit will signla remote light on/off as needed, thus you just need 120v power for the light, do not need on/off control wires.
Commercial door openers mounted over the door header also have release mechanism, usually a chain or cable you must pull to release the drive clutch from the torsion bar.I haven't seen one of the Wayne Dalton idrive type openers yet, but I was wondering how do they handle power failures? The traditional carriage type just have a rope to disconnect them from the door.