Residential garage door openers
- Thread starter olc
- Start date
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SOP for me. But the issue now is where in the ceiling? There are openers where the motor sits right above the door opening.
Yes, they need to be GFCI protected. But installing a GFCI recep in the ceiling is not allowed, as it would require using a ladder to reset it in most installations. So by default, you'd want to line/load protect a standard recep from a GFCI recep or breaker elsewhere.
Yes, they need to be GFCI protected. But installing a GFCI recep in the ceiling is not allowed, as it would require using a ladder to reset it in most installations. So by default, you'd want to line/load protect a standard recep from a GFCI recep or breaker elsewhere.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Are you seeing those with the power unit right above the door in residential applications? I don't think I ever have, but not impossible either I guess.
Otherwise yes, GFCI protection required (since 2008 I believe, maybe 2005, then the GFCI device was required to be readily accessible in the next code cycle)
- Location
- Bremerton, Washington
My garage has a fairly low ceiling, I am tall and can reach 8 ft. I can easily reach the GFCI test and reset buttons. The issue is taking the definition for readily accessible, meant for a panel and applying to a GFCI under a sink...
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Though I don't entirely agree with the readily accessible requirement for all GFCI's, I also don't think readily accessible was necessarily ever intended to apply to just panels.
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
Four things
1) use either a gfci in the panel or use a dead front gfci in the garage (my preference).
2) I agree with 10-11 feet back but put the receptacle 12" off center of the door as it may get in the way.
3) If the ceiling is very high I usually leave 3 or 4' of wire out of the ceiling and bring the wire down the support for the door and mount the receptacle there as the cord on the door may not reach if it is a tall ceiling.
4) I lied about there being 4 things
1) use either a gfci in the panel or use a dead front gfci in the garage (my preference).
2) I agree with 10-11 feet back but put the receptacle 12" off center of the door as it may get in the way.
3) If the ceiling is very high I usually leave 3 or 4' of wire out of the ceiling and bring the wire down the support for the door and mount the receptacle there as the cord on the door may not reach if it is a tall ceiling.
4) I lied about there being 4 things
Last code cycle and believe it or not jersey is still using 2005 exception for 2014
Also for behind equipment. NOT REQUIRED
Also afci not required when extending circs.
Check consumer affairs (addendums) for your state.
FWIW. I still install a accessible gfci dead front for that recept although it's not required.
mwm1752
Senior Member
- Location
- Aspen, Colo
You are taller than me 6'1" & my flat foot reach is 7'6" -- so do I make the non accessible call on your ceiling?
readydave8
re member
- Location
- Clarkesville, Georgia
- Occupation
- electrician
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
That just doesn't sound right, wireless yet needs wires
- Location
- Chapel Hill, NC
- Occupation
- Retired Electrical Contractor
That just doesn't sound right, wireless yet needs wires
I think the remote is wireless
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Technically the control method is what uses wireless, but yes I had assumed that - it was supposed to be funny.
FionaZuppa
Senior Member
- Location
- AZ
- Occupation
- Part Time Electrician (semi retired, old) - EE retired.
iDrive and the like have been used for over 10yrs now in residential
this one sits about mid-way right on the torsion bar directly on the garage door header, etc.
they have wireless controlled lights, the iDrive unit will signal remote light on/off as needed, thus you just need 120v power for the light, do not need on/off control wires.
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kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Is the remote light an actual luminaire they provide or a controller for your own luminaire?iDrive and the like have been used for over 10yrs now
this one sits about mid-way right on the torsion bar directly on the garage door header, etc.
they have wireless controlled lights, the iDrive unit will signla remote light on/off as needed, thus you just need 120v power for the light, do not need on/off control wires.
Haven't been doing much dwelling work in recent years, but have never seen a residential opener that mounts on header of the door opening.
Looks like it has it's advantages though.
Guessing they are more of an accessory sold and installed with the door more so then a "one fits all" add on like the drawbar style openers are.
Barbqranch
Senior Member
- Location
- Arcata, CA
- Occupation
- Plant maintenance electrician Semi-retired
I haven't seen one of the Wayne Dalton idrive type openers yet, but I was wondering how do they handle power failures? The traditional carriage type just have a rope to disconnect them from the door.
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
Commercial door openers mounted over the door header also have release mechanism, usually a chain or cable you must pull to release the drive clutch from the torsion bar.
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