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Residential Wiring

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don_resqcapt19

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Illinois
Occupation
retired electrician
His question was ...........how many receptacles can he put on a 15 amp circuit.
Multiple the square footage of the dwelling times 3 VA per square foot.
Divide that by 120 volts.
Then divide that by 15 amp circuit breakers that you will need.
Round up if you have a remainder (fraction thereof).

Then read 210-11 Branch Circuits Required (A) (B)
Knowing how many circuits you need will now allow you to evenly provide the approximate number of receptacles on the 15 amp circuit.
Do the same if you want to use 20 amp circuits.

Thanks for reading
TX+MASTER #4544
That has ZERO to do with the number of receptacles that can be supplied by each 15 amp branch circuit. That tells you how many circuits you need.
Each required circuit could have the number of receptacles needed to comply with the rules in 210.52(A)(2) or 10 or even 100 times that number.

The evenly proportioned part only applies the the area supplied by the required branch circuits, and not by the number of receptacles in each area.
Receptacles in dwelling units are not load.
 

Besoeker3

Senior Member
Location
UK
Occupation
Retired Electrical Engineer
We do not have 110V either, mostly just DIYers & foreigners calling it that :p
Most of my business is in the industrial field - steel works, paper mills etc. Not exactly DIYers...........!!
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
That has ZERO to do with the number of receptacles that can be supplied by each 15 amp branch circuit. That tells you how many circuits you need.
Each required circuit could have the number of receptacles needed to comply with the rules in 210.52(A)(2) or 10 or even 100 times that number.

The evenly proportioned part only applies the the area supplied by the required branch circuits, and not by the number of receptacles in each area.
Receptacles in dwelling units are not load.
A good point. They are just convenience.
 

Fred B

Senior Member
Location
Upstate, NY
Occupation
Electrician
Just because it is code compliant doesn't make it good design. NEC is NOT a design manual.

Customer wants to cheap out on the electrical even though he's got a multimillion home and have minimally compliant electrical, Advice, Caution, and install per request. Add with warning that in event they are not satisfied the cost will be much more than if done before completion.

Had one the customer insisted on minimally compliant even though strong recommendation otherwise, months later called and complained of tripping. Investigation proved it was simple overload tripping breaker and offered to add some circuits. but they still declined. Found Six larger load countertop appliances on the 2 minimum SABC, metered approaching 30A when tripped, fryers, kettles, grills, and crocks. Don't know, they might have eventually ran multiple extension cords from other areas through doors.
 

Hendog53$

New User
Location
marrero
Occupation
electrician
I'm sure this topic has been kicked around before. I believe there is no maximum number of receptacles you can put on a 15 amp circuit in a residential dwelling, correct? With that being said, I was curious how many receptacles you prefer to put on a 15 amp circuit when you're roughing a house, what's your rule of thumb?
Do you keep your lighting on separate circuits, or do you combine lighting and receptacles together?
I do 6 receptacles per circuit and yes I keep them separate
 

tortuga

Code Historian
Location
Oregon
Occupation
Electrical Design
We do not have 110V either, mostly just DIYers & foreigners calling it that :p
In the UK and much of the EU as I understand, even for residential construction sites, they do in fact use 110V 50/hz as part of a 'risk assessment scheme' regulations much like our OSHA. It resembles one of our spider boxes, a center tapped 230 : 110/55V transformer. Many or most hand held power tools there were 110V before the cordless revolution. From what I have herd its not uncommon to have one fitted in a workshop also: uk-transformer.png
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Occupation
EC
We never do general use receptacles on 15A circuits. We almost never combine lights and receptacles. No hard fast rule for us but we won't typically do more than about 8 receptacles on a circuit. Dedicated for each bedroom. We only do residential. Part of our rationale for this is early on in our company we had a job we wired that ended up having space heaters in their bedrooms and were constantly tripping circuits.

Rob G - Seattle
I share a lot of your reasoning when it comes to this. I usually put all the receptacles on 20 amp circuits, but unless rewiring some old home that doesn't have good heating/cooling systems I usually will end up with more than one bedroom on said 20 amp receptacle circuits. No real set rule on how many and every install will have some variances. Might be simpler to catch a common wall on one circuit but other side of a room could end up coming from a different direction. I generally don't limit to just bedrooms, maybe a living room or similar space might be adjacent to a bedroom and might be common circuit between at least a portion of both rooms.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Occupation
EC
When we moved into our former house in '89, the receptacles in both bathrooms and the outdoor receptacles were on the same circuit so that only one GFCI was needed. After the first time hunting for what was the cause of the GFCI trip, that got changed right away.
That was especially common in mobile and manufactured homes back about then. Took me a while to figure it out one time when someone's bath receptacle wasn't working. IIRC on that one the GFCI was at the outside receptacle. Hasn't fooled me since when a receptacle that is in GFCI required location but no apparent GFCI, non continuity between neutral and ground is also a sign that a GFCI receptacle is tripped somewhere upstream.
 

Besoeker3

Senior Member
Location
UK
Occupation
Retired Electrical Engineer
Most of my business is in the industrial field - steel works, paper mills etc. Not exactly DIYers...........!!
And we do have 110V for
But you confirmed my statement DIYers AND foreigners, it's rare for a American professional electrician to call it 110V, there is another thread from a Kiwi doing the same thing for a example. https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/electrical-panels-built-outside-of-us.2583533/
And we do use 110Vac for industrial works. Blue Cement works, BP Grangemouth and many others. But it is usually just the smaller stuff. For example Blue Cement are 11kV for the main drives, and smaller ones are 3.3kV
 

BarryO

Senior Member
Location
Bend, OR
Occupation
Electrical engineer (retired)
That was especially common in mobile and manufactured homes back about then. Took me a while to figure it out one time when someone's bath receptacle wasn't working. IIRC on that one the GFCI was at the outside receptacle. Hasn't fooled me since when a receptacle that is in GFCI required location but no apparent GFCI, non continuity between neutral and ground is also a sign that a GFCI receptacle is tripped somewhere upstream.
It wasn't a mobile home but the wiring was sketchy with an FE panel. When we remodeled and did an addition a couple of years later I had the electrician re-do the whole house. Might as well when much of the drywall is off.
 

garbo

Senior Member
Isn't that a code violation?
How'd that pass?
That was a while back and asked my inspector about that and he said that it was not against the code back then. Since the 1970's I always installed a separate 20 amp dedicated GFCI receptacle in each bathroom & powder room.
 
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