We do not have 110V either, mostly just DIYers & foreigners calling it thatI agree with your points. Another difference with UK residential is that it is all 230V Hz, no 110V.
We do not have 110V either, mostly just DIYers & foreigners calling it thatI agree with your points. Another difference with UK residential is that it is all 230V Hz, no 110V.
That has ZERO to do with the number of receptacles that can be supplied by each 15 amp branch circuit. That tells you how many circuits you need.His question was ...........how many receptacles can he put on a 15 amp circuit.
Multiple the square footage of the dwelling times 3 VA per square foot.
Divide that by 120 volts.
Then divide that by 15 amp circuit breakers that you will need.
Round up if you have a remainder (fraction thereof).
Then read 210-11 Branch Circuits Required (A) (B)
Knowing how many circuits you need will now allow you to evenly provide the approximate number of receptacles on the 15 amp circuit.
Do the same if you want to use 20 amp circuits.
Thanks for reading
TX+MASTER #4544
Most of my business is in the industrial field - steel works, paper mills etc. Not exactly DIYers...........!!We do not have 110V either, mostly just DIYers & foreigners calling it that
A good point. They are just convenience.That has ZERO to do with the number of receptacles that can be supplied by each 15 amp branch circuit. That tells you how many circuits you need.
Each required circuit could have the number of receptacles needed to comply with the rules in 210.52(A)(2) or 10 or even 100 times that number.
The evenly proportioned part only applies the the area supplied by the required branch circuits, and not by the number of receptacles in each area.
Receptacles in dwelling units are not load.
But you just made a leap from calc rules to installation rules that I don’t believe exists.So i'd say a branch circuit that is new or extended to supply more than 600 SQFT would be a violation.
I do 6 receptacles per circuit and yes I keep them separateI'm sure this topic has been kicked around before. I believe there is no maximum number of receptacles you can put on a 15 amp circuit in a residential dwelling, correct? With that being said, I was curious how many receptacles you prefer to put on a 15 amp circuit when you're roughing a house, what's your rule of thumb?
Do you keep your lighting on separate circuits, or do you combine lighting and receptacles together?
The moment you realize receptacles are for the occupants’ convenience is the moment one is enlightened.A good point. They are just convenience.
And the correct answer is a wheelbarrow full or a bushel basket or as many as you want.His question was ...........how many receptacles can he put on a 15 amp circuit.
TX+MASTER #4544
It’s competing market stupidity.And the correct answer is a wheelbarrow full or a bushel basket or as many as you want.
Only in commercial wiring there is a limit on the number of receptacles on a 15 or 20 amp circuit.
Thanks for reading
Comments accepted
TX+MASTER#4544
In the UK and much of the EU as I understand, even for residential construction sites, they do in fact use 110V 50/hz as part of a 'risk assessment scheme' regulations much like our OSHA. It resembles one of our spider boxes, a center tapped 230 : 110/55V transformer. Many or most hand held power tools there were 110V before the cordless revolution. From what I have herd its not uncommon to have one fitted in a workshop also:We do not have 110V either, mostly just DIYers & foreigners calling it that
I share a lot of your reasoning when it comes to this. I usually put all the receptacles on 20 amp circuits, but unless rewiring some old home that doesn't have good heating/cooling systems I usually will end up with more than one bedroom on said 20 amp receptacle circuits. No real set rule on how many and every install will have some variances. Might be simpler to catch a common wall on one circuit but other side of a room could end up coming from a different direction. I generally don't limit to just bedrooms, maybe a living room or similar space might be adjacent to a bedroom and might be common circuit between at least a portion of both rooms.We never do general use receptacles on 15A circuits. We almost never combine lights and receptacles. No hard fast rule for us but we won't typically do more than about 8 receptacles on a circuit. Dedicated for each bedroom. We only do residential. Part of our rationale for this is early on in our company we had a job we wired that ended up having space heaters in their bedrooms and were constantly tripping circuits.
Rob G - Seattle
That was especially common in mobile and manufactured homes back about then. Took me a while to figure it out one time when someone's bath receptacle wasn't working. IIRC on that one the GFCI was at the outside receptacle. Hasn't fooled me since when a receptacle that is in GFCI required location but no apparent GFCI, non continuity between neutral and ground is also a sign that a GFCI receptacle is tripped somewhere upstream.When we moved into our former house in '89, the receptacles in both bathrooms and the outdoor receptacles were on the same circuit so that only one GFCI was needed. After the first time hunting for what was the cause of the GFCI trip, that got changed right away.
Isn't that a code violation?Worst was he placed the 3 bathroom & 2 outdoor receptacles on one 20 amp GFCI circuit breaker.
But you confirmed my statement DIYers AND foreigners, it's rare for a American professional electrician to call it 110V, there is another thread from a Kiwi doing the same thing for a example. https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/electrical-panels-built-outside-of-us.2583533/Most of my business is in the industrial field - steel works, paper mills etc. Not exactly DIYers...........!!
Actually I say it quite a lot 🫣. I think tho it's usually when having a convo with someone who says it, and I just go along with it and also say it rather than correcting them.But you confirmed my statement DIYers AND foreigners, it's rare for a American professional electrician to call it 110V,
And we do have 110V forMost of my business is in the industrial field - steel works, paper mills etc. Not exactly DIYers...........!!
And we do use 110Vac for industrial works. Blue Cement works, BP Grangemouth and many others. But it is usually just the smaller stuff. For example Blue Cement are 11kV for the main drives, and smaller ones are 3.3kVBut you confirmed my statement DIYers AND foreigners, it's rare for a American professional electrician to call it 110V, there is another thread from a Kiwi doing the same thing for a example. https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/electrical-panels-built-outside-of-us.2583533/
It wasn't a mobile home but the wiring was sketchy with an FE panel. When we remodeled and did an addition a couple of years later I had the electrician re-do the whole house. Might as well when much of the drywall is off.That was especially common in mobile and manufactured homes back about then. Took me a while to figure it out one time when someone's bath receptacle wasn't working. IIRC on that one the GFCI was at the outside receptacle. Hasn't fooled me since when a receptacle that is in GFCI required location but no apparent GFCI, non continuity between neutral and ground is also a sign that a GFCI receptacle is tripped somewhere upstream.
That was a while back and asked my inspector about that and he said that it was not against the code back then. Since the 1970's I always installed a separate 20 amp dedicated GFCI receptacle in each bathroom & powder room.Isn't that a code violation?
How'd that pass?