JJWalecka
Senior Member
- Location
- New England
Is there a bell end fitting listed for schedule 80 PVC?
I took a quick look through a few catalogs and found only SCH40's. Is a SCH80 fitting required or will a SCH40 work?
If you're concerned with that shoulder at the end of the conduit, they make pvc conduit reamers that will put a chamfer in the end of the conduit, just like the larger sizes of pvc come with from the factory.
Back side of a razor knife works very well. Used it for years.truth is, a small router with a 1/4" radius ball bearing cutter could be used
to dress the end of large pvc, accomplishing the same thing as a bell end,
but it isn't listed.....
I do that even just when transitioning from sch 40 to sch 80.Back side of a razor knife works very well. Used it for years.
If you're concerned with that shoulder at the end of the conduit, they make pvc conduit reamers that will put a chamfer in the end of the conduit, just like the larger sizes of pvc come with from the factory.
It probably would, but I don't think anybody makes such a thing.Yes that shoulder that is shown in the picture. I was curious if a schedule 80 bell end fitting would eliminate the need to ream the PVC out.
truth is, a small router with a 1/4" radius ball bearing cutter could be used
to dress the end of large pvc, accomplishing the same thing as a bell end,
but it isn't listed.....
Is there a bell end fitting listed for schedule 80 PVC?
I am more likely to have a RMC reamer handy then a router.+1 for using router to chamfer sched-80 ID edge before gluing the 40 bell on.
I am more likely to have a RMC reamer handy then a router.
Then you are no help to the OPI am more likely not to even worry about the small lip.
Then you are no help to the OP
I am more likely to have a RMC reamer handy then a router.
I've not tried it but perhaps a unibit and cordless drill may be handier.I am more likely to have a RMC reamer handy then a router.
That does work, but I don't have a bit large enough to do this with conduits over 1 inch trade size.I've not tried it but perhaps a unibit and cordless drill may be handier.
Physics will likely require both hands on the drill motor. Being safe will demand it. :happyyes:
It doesn't have to fit the hole. Just run it around the ID like a powered rasp. Heck, for that matter, even a standard drill bit may do the job... but the taper will be [more] freehand.That does work, but I don't have a bit large enough to do this with conduits over 1 inch trade size.
It doesn't have to fit the hole. Just run it around the ID like a powered rasp. Heck, for that matter, even a standard drill bit may do the job... but the taper will be [more] freehand.