Schedule 80 bell end

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I took a quick look through a few catalogs and found only SCH40's. Is a SCH80 fitting required or will a SCH40 work?
 
If you're concerned with that shoulder at the end of the conduit, they make pvc conduit reamers that will put a chamfer in the end of the conduit, just like the larger sizes of pvc come with from the factory.
 
Cow said:
If you're concerned with that shoulder at the end of the conduit, they make pvc conduit reamers that will put a chamfer in the end of the conduit, just like the larger sizes of pvc come with from the factory.
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truth is, a small router with a 1/4" radius ball bearing cutter could be used
to dress the end of large pvc, accomplishing the same thing as a bell end,
but it isn't listed.....
 
ptonsparky said:
Back side of a razor knife works very well. Used it for years.
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I do that even just when transitioning from sch 40 to sch 80.

Used to just ream the ends when ending the raceway like in the OP or for transition to direct buried conductors, but anymore they don't think that is good enough, we need to buy a fitting for the purpose.
 
Cow said:
If you're concerned with that shoulder at the end of the conduit, they make pvc conduit reamers that will put a chamfer in the end of the conduit, just like the larger sizes of pvc come with from the factory.
Click to expand...

Yes that shoulder that is shown in the picture. I was curious if a schedule 80 bell end fitting would eliminate the need to ream the PVC out.
 
Fulthrotl said:
truth is, a small router with a 1/4" radius ball bearing cutter could be used
to dress the end of large pvc, accomplishing the same thing as a bell end,
but it isn't listed.....
Click to expand...

+1 for using router to chamfer sched-80 ID edge before gluing the 40 bell on.
 
kwired said:
I am more likely to have a RMC reamer handy then a router.
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ryobi p600 cordless can be had for ~$9-$40. a tool like this can be used for more than just chamfering of plastic tubes :thumbsup:
 
kwired said:
I am more likely to have a RMC reamer handy then a router.
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I've not tried it but perhaps a unibit and cordless drill may be handier. :D

Physics will likely require both hands on the drill motor. Being safe will demand it. :happyyes:
 
Smart $ said:
I've not tried it but perhaps a unibit and cordless drill may be handier. :D

Physics will likely require both hands on the drill motor. Being safe will demand it. :happyyes:
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That does work, but I don't have a bit large enough to do this with conduits over 1 inch trade size.
 
kwired said:
That does work, but I don't have a bit large enough to do this with conduits over 1 inch trade size.
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It doesn't have to fit the hole. Just run it around the ID like a powered rasp. Heck, for that matter, even a standard drill bit may do the job... but the taper will be [more] freehand.
 
Smart $ said:
It doesn't have to fit the hole. Just run it around the ID like a powered rasp. Heck, for that matter, even a standard drill bit may do the job... but the taper will be [more] freehand.
Click to expand...

I do what kwired does with up to 1" but I think if you tried to use it like a rasp on larger pipe you would spend more time failing and swearing than just grabbing a rasp.
 
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