Septic wiring

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electricalperson said:
not quite sure what woodhead is slang for, but i install a GFCI, bell box and a bubble cover
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Woodhead is a brand, popular with shore power cords. The cord cap actually "seals" into the cover, barring the entrance of moisture and condensation. The Leviton "Wetguard" series is pretty much the same.
 
electricalperson said:
i never had any type of corroson i use silicone in back of the box and where the wires enter the box and its up high right below the lid
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The corrosion would be at the plug... but how many electricians ever go back to change a pump out years later...
 
What I do on the typical residential pump is mount a 8X8 PVC box on treated post. A 2" PVC goes down, ells into well for pump and float switch cables. Mount a handi box inside PVC box with receptacle. Seal both ends of 2" with duct seal.
 
In only one town in CT where Ive worked, the inspector required an explosion proof fitting under the bell box where we had our disco(SP switch. We came out of the bottom of the bell box w a 3/4 x 4 nipple into an EY-then out the bottom of the EY with 3/4 ridgid into the pit
 
I use direct burial splices inside the tank and extend all the leads with UF, inside a conduit, back to the house where usually there is a "rhombus" box, or some other controller that I make all connections in.
I was asked to use explosion proof fittings once, I appealed, and won. Duct seal is fine.
 
marcerrin said:
I use direct burial splices inside the tank and extend all the leads with UF, inside a conduit, back to the house where usually there is a "rhombus" box, or some other controller that I make all connections in.
I was asked to use explosion proof fittings once, I appealed, and won. Duct seal is fine.
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That seems like a pain for servicing, plus all the pumps I do are piggyback with the start/stop float....
 
Another Option

Another Option

stickboy1375 said:
That seems like a pain for servicing, plus all the pumps I do are piggyback with the start/stop float....
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When I run into a piggyback, I cut the plugs from the the cords. Route the cords out the side of the tank riser, install a 10" round ground box flush with the tank lid. Run the circuit to the ground box and install a disconnect within site cause I cut off the disconnect in step one. Disconnect usually at the house.
 
frizbeedog said:
When I run into a piggyback, I cut the plugs from the the cords. Route the cords out the side of the tank riser, install a 10" round ground box flush with the tank lid. Run the circuit to the ground box and install a disconnect within site cause I cut off the disconnect in step one. Disconnect usually at the house.
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I dont think your allowed to cut plug off... Isnt that pump UL listed with it installed?
 
Yes. I cut the plug off.

Yes. I cut the plug off.

stickboy1375 said:
I dont think your allowed to cut plug off... Isnt that pump UL listed with it installed?
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I knew you'd say that. Allowed to or not, I do.

I also do that when installing the cords into the tank J-box when using cord grips.

standard practice for me, never had any issues when doing this.

Many of the control floats, when not a piggy back configuration have no plug. Just the cord leads.
 
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