Thanks all for your input and suggestions.
Had a little time to visit this home today and found this:
Disconnected all coax at outside 3-1 splitter. I think only 2 coax are being utilized inside the home. NO voltage measured on feed from cable company. 32.5 volts measured on each of two coax entering home. Turned off breakers until voltage was gone. Identified and marked the (2) separate 15 amp circuits involved. One was feeding the TV and converter box in the MBR, and the other was feeding the TV and cable converter box in the FR. If I unplugged both the TV and the Converter box at the MBR and the voltage on the coax was gone. Plugging either one of them back in reintroduced the voltage, although there was no longer ANY type of connection between the TV and the cable box ~ No HDMI, no coax, etc. So, if either unit was plugged in and the coax connected back to it the 32.5volts would again be present on the coax. It didn't matter which one, the voltage would again be present. If the coax was not connected to either unit with the circuit on, the voltage would not be present. So when either one of the units was energized and connected to the coax, the coax would get the voltage again. I did not have time to take it farther, but at this point am assuming the other TV and cable converter box are doing the same thing on the other circuit. The two circuits involved are the same phase. The cable splitter back at the point of entry to the home is bonded ~(confirmed with a continuity test) back to the GES. Voltages at the panel measured in the normal ranges under load conditions (microwave, dryer). Receptacle feeding MBR TV/converter box tested fine. No interference on TV signal as pictures on both TV's were beautiful. Any ideas on this updated info?
I had one like this that was caused by a reversed polarity wired receptacle the wiring was reversed in the ceiling light box, not only was the receptacle reversed polarity but the GEC to the grounding terminal was boot legged from the hot neutral in ceiling the light box which would show as a correctly wired receptacle using a 3-light plug in tester, this is a very dangerous set up as anything plugged in this receptacle would have a hot chassis as the ground was connected to the hot instead of the neutral, so you might want to get an extension cord from a known good receptacle and test from it to find which wire is the true hot, neutral, and look for a bootleg ground, the bootleg ground may or may not be present to cause the problem.
A second call was an older CRT TV that turned out to be a hot chassis, older CRT type TV's use caps to the neutral and or hot, if a cap to the hot shorted it would cause voltage on the chassis, these sets only had a two wire cord so they didn't really have a reference to ground except through these filter caps, but this would only cause the problem when only the TV was plugged in not the cable box, the previous call is what I would look for because both the cable box and TV are causing it, and the only common thing is the receptacle and or the circuit feeding it, you might take the receptacle out and find the hot and neutral wired correctly including the ground but using the extension cord you will find that the neutral wire is hot and maybe the ground is also, that means you have a bootleg ground off the neutral at or ahead of the receptacle, using the same extention cord from the known good receptacle if you plugged in the TV and cable box, it most likely wont have the problem, so then you will know where to look for the problem.
also make sure if they are using a plug strip that it isn't miss wired, wouldn't be the first time I found this problem not on a TV but in a garage being used for a freezer that the home owner was getting shocked from, the strip had a new plug end changed and the ground and neutral was wired to the hot terminal with the hot on the neutral, the freezer would run just fine but don't touch it bare foot as the cabinet was hot.
funny thing is a 3-light tester shows it wired correctly, and it can tell which wire is which in a case like this, as long as there is a 120 volts between the hot to neutral and hot to ground it will light the two lights correctly, this is why I say use an extention cord from a known good receptacle for a referance point. just remember the small blade is the hot and the large blade is the neutral and you cant go wrong unless you didnt make sure the receptacle you plugged it in to was wired right? but at least with an extention cord you can go to a water pipe or other grounded item and test it to make sure the hot is hot.
