Splitting packaged spa wiring components

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Splitting packaged spa wiring components

Those are just reducing washers.... They are spray foaming the walls and I wanted something to hold the connectors flush at the wall; I won't set the disconnects until they paint.

Neutrals are in the trough in the ceiling and passing on to the spa.

Disconnects are going to sit right here on this corner. They're within sight and about 8' from the corner of where the spa will sit.

I'm not sure what the customer paid; I was assuming closer to $25k but just my guess.


896c48801ccbf607451775b2ca4fc4b8.jpg


b3a8db37bbe78b9b6d8bf56845a6f1f6.jpg


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brantmacga said:
Those are just reducing washers.... They are spray foaming the walls and I wanted something to hold the connectors flush at the wall; I won't set the disconnects until they paint.

Neutrals are in the trough in the ceiling and passing on to the spa.

Disconnects are going to sit right here on this corner. They're within sight and about 8' from the corner of where the spa will sit.

I'm not sure what the customer paid; I was assuming closer to $25k but just my guess.


896c48801ccbf607451775b2ca4fc4b8.jpg


b3a8db37bbe78b9b6d8bf56845a6f1f6.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Was thinking that the load side of the disco was going straight to the spa. Looks good. What did you use to cut the oval holes in the studs to get the RPVC thru?

I take it those swim spas must have a pretty powerful pump to provide a current to swim into - how many amps does that bad boy pull if everything is running?

Thanks for the pics.

eta: what are the green cables in pic #1, comm cable?
 
Splitting packaged spa wiring components

Hole saw and chisel haha.....

Yeh the PVC goes down out of the foundation wall and underneath the slab to come up inside of the spa.

The spa is 40A 240v and the "pool" is 50A 240v.

I believe the pool side has 3 pumps and a heat pack, and the spa has 2 pumps and a heat pack.

That wire hanging is the grounding wires in the trough. The cover was open in the pic.


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Splitting packaged spa wiring components

kwired said:
Can't say I have ever used one, but kind of makes some sense since less components are needed to be stocked for assembly- as in they probably use the same 120 volt logic components as they do in other GFCI breakers, this would mean you do need a supply neutral even though there is no load neutral for it to work correctly though.
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Here is the QO260GFI I had ordered for this project .....no neutral connection on breaker

cd3d246416ad008ab38bacf30f5566eb.jpg


Just a #10 neutral pigtail.


And here is the QO240GFI with a neutral connection, and full sized pigtail

376b346ea27534ddec6e65f485b8138e.jpg



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brantmacga said:
Here is the QO260GFI I had ordered for this project .....no neutral connection on breaker

cd3d246416ad008ab38bacf30f5566eb.jpg


Just a #10 neutral pigtail.


And here is the QO240GFI with a neutral connection, and full sized pigtail

376b346ea27534ddec6e65f485b8138e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
It apparently needs a neutral for the GFCI monitoring circuitry, isn't all that clear in the catalog though.
 
kwired said:
It apparently needs a neutral for the GFCI monitoring circuitry, isn't all that clear in the catalog though.
Click to expand...

That, and I assumed it uses it as a reference point to ground when checking current imbalances between lines. Idk...
 
brantmacga said:
That, and I assumed it uses it as a reference point to ground when checking current imbalances between lines. Idk...
Click to expand...
It don't care about ground reference when it comes to imbalance monitoring. What passes through one direction of the CT must come back the other direction thru the CT whether it is a grounded conductor or not. Just like clamping a ammeter around all conductors of a circuit should display a net of zero if nothing is flowing through alternate routes.
 
It's always a bummer when the pipes wont turn out. Not that you'd ever have to, but, if you did, the flex in the wall makes pulling things in or out in the future more difficult and the flex fittings inside the wall usually seem to be the first thing to let go.

JAP>
 
Would've been nice but wall was just a little too narrow.....

The guy running the pipe came and asked me for a greenfield 90


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brantmacga said:
Would've been nice but wall was just a little too narrow.....

The guy running the pipe came and asked me for a greenfield 90


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The fender washers are a nice touch.
I use the same thing as a trim ring when I flex out through the insulation on metal buildings to get to the wall packs.

JAP>
 
kwired said:
It don't care about ground reference when it comes to imbalance monitoring. What passes through one direction of the CT must come back the other direction thru the CT whether it is a grounded conductor or not. Just like clamping a ammeter around all conductors of a circuit should display a net of zero if nothing is flowing through alternate routes.
Click to expand...
Check this out.
43c13cf92a968f65b4284e110402ab8a.jpg


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peterlarsen.suntec said:
Check this out.
43c13cf92a968f65b4284e110402ab8a.jpg


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The notes and warnings there are to make sure you know what the function of the terminal is that you are landing a conductor on. You can make essentially the same mistake at the connection at the distribution panel where there is no GFCI and have same result, and it has nothing to do with the functionality of a GFCI.
 
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