Stripping MC

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I also do the bend method to split the spiral, and usually bend and break the metal with my fingers. This leaves the broken edge rounded away from the conductors. Sometimes I also nip a point off.

I'm always meticulous about shaping the metal to protect the insulation. I usually use bushings, depending on how I feel about the need, and put them on before trimming the plastic wrap.

One more thing: when there's a difference between the two terminations, I make sure the end landing in the 'weaker' support is the end with the spiral on the outside, for better pull-out resistance.
 
LarryFine said:
I also do the bend method to split the spiral, and usually bend and break the metal with my fingers. This leaves the broken edge rounded away from the conductors. Sometimes I also nip a point off.

I'm always meticulous about shaping the metal to protect the insulation. I usually use bushings, depending on how I feel about the need, and put them on before trimming the plastic wrap.

One more thing: when there's a difference between the two terminations, I make sure the end landing in the 'weaker' support is the end with the spiral on the outside, for better pull-out resistance.
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I always install bushings. When my boss charges for every anti short bushing I never miss a single one on the invoice.
 
Same here Larry, and the cable that is in the direction of the panel is the one that gets its ground landed on the box screw, and back out to pig-tail the rest to.
 
Almost always a hack saw. After 25 years of elbow jarring cuts, I have it down to a science. :roll:

IMO it's the fastest method if you're good at it.
 
hacksaw...you guys are old....

400 boxes...800 pieces of MC to strip...hacksaw? dykes? no wonder no one could his the magical 30 min mark:D

RS-101AC-03b.jpg

to strip the cable

38ast.jpg


or

3838st.jpg


these to terminate into the box...


now, 1 piece of cable, service work...whatever is handy:D
 
220/221 said:
I cut with sharp dikes. Never used a rotosplit, never nicked a wire.had a problem
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Me too. Most new mc has that thin aluminum jacket. IMO roto splits are a bit overkill and just another tool to add to your belt and weigh you down. I use roto splits if I encounter steel MC or BX...... Just bend, twist ,cut ,insert red head and connector done.
 
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jayrad1122 said:
Little question. What kind of tool do you use to strip the outer jacket off of MC Cable? Roto-Split? Bx Cutter? Hacksaw?
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I don't like to admit this but I normally use my tin snips to remove jacket from MC cable. In many areas they do not like this method so I do keep a roto-spit in the van. I'm very fast with the snips and have never had a problem, I just bend the sheathing until it seperates then a snip and maybe a little trim then install plastic bushing and then snip the clear plastic. All in about 5 seconds. I also use the snips for Greenfield (flex).

This is not a really good method to teach a young helper. A Roto-split is much better for those that don't like to pay attention to what they are doing. If it's adjusted right it's very hard for them to make a mistake.
 
emahler said:
hacksaw...you guys are old....


38ast.jpg


or

3838st.jpg


these to terminate into the box...


now, 1 piece of cable, service work...whatever is handy:D
Click to expand...

I'm roto all the way for stripping, but I just wanted to add that I HATE these pop in connectors. I do a lot of commercial work and every single time I buy MC connectors I always tell my supplier WITH locknut. Maybe I'm the only one...
 
rotosplit is the law

rotosplit is the law

back in the day when I had apprentices and journeymen working, if rotosplits were not used, we would experience an occasional short.
After two or three, rotosplits became mandatory.
With experience, they may not be necessary, but it's not worth the time and embarassment to trust inexperienced men to saw or snip cut.
 
The jouneyman I came w/ as an apprentice was taught in an old school compay that was all hacksaws. They were of the opinion that rotosplits and such were going to cause you to "labor save your self right out of a job". He tried to convince me that the hacksaw was the way to go but I never bought it. Rotosplit for MC jobs, whatever is handy if only a piece or two.

BTW I also hate the snap in connectors. More than the snap in throat I hate the spring retention in the barrel (where the cable meets the connector). They still make both types, so obviously we're not the only one's who feel this way.
 
infinity said:
Almost always a hack saw. After 25 years of elbow jarring cuts, I have it down to a science. :roll:

IMO it's the fastest method if you're good at it.
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For the life of me, I can't grasp on how to use a hacksaw on MC.

It seems too small to try and cut. Any enlightenment?
 
Awg-Dawg said:
For the life of me, I can't grasp on how to use a hacksaw on MC.

It seems too small to try and cut. Any enlightenment?
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The big MC you pretty much have to. Saw at a hard 45 or greater angle. The small stuff, I'm not sure how you'd use a hacksaw on MC. I never had much luck. Now, AC, that's a different story. Pretty easy to hacksaw small type AC cable.
 
I've seen what looks like miniature versions of the old manual mitre-saws that carpenters use. They hold the MC and the blade at the 'correct' angle, as well as provide a way to hold the MC still.
 
480sparky said:
I've seen what looks like miniature versions of the old manual mitre-saws that carpenters use. They hold the MC and the blade at the 'correct' angle, as well as provide a way to hold the MC still.
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Hmmm... remember who makes that? I know the roto-split people make an electric one that looks like a little Skil saw.
 
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