electricmanscott
Senior Member
- Location
- Boston, MA
under cabinet lighting
- Thread starter mjf
- Start date
- Status
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
Too hot to store most foods on the cabinet bottom shelf. I've seen cans bulge from the heat.
Okay, some plates, maybe, but not glasses and ice cream bowls.Personally I like my plates prewarmed.
Okay, but I got real close on that one.
The wires are stapled just behind the drywall, and the EGC is attached (with no slack) to the back plate with a real, honest-to-goodness green hex-head screw.
I even made sure that the screw bump was positioned away from the wall to allow a couple of inches of sheath in the box.
Hey, the inspector's supervisor passed it, so I'm good.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
As I mentioned a while back when these were discussed, one would have to be very careful about mis-matching LED and fluorescent tubes and ballasts.
I think they should come up with alternate, non-interchangeable tube-end configurations, which would require tombstone exchanging, to prevent this.
Don't get me wrong; I'm all for the idea, once they improve reliability and longevity.
I found the following pic through a google search; this is exactly like what was displayed.
LarryFine
Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
- Location
- Henrico County, VA
- Occupation
- Electrical Contractor
The tube color has impoved in the last few years. They've gotten whiter without so much blue.It cutomer preference but of course fluorescent is fugly.
I think the new T-5's and -8's also have better color (and rendition) than T-12's of old.
- Location
- New Jersey
- Occupation
- Journeyman Electrician
Too hot to store most foods on the cabinet bottom shelf. I've seen cans bulge from the heat.
Okay, some plates, maybe, but not glasses and ice cream bowls.
I've had them for almost 15 years in my own kitchen and the heat has never been an issue. Maybe we're thinking of two different types of xenon lighting.
A/A Fuel GTX
Senior Member
- Location
- WI & AZ
- Occupation
- Electrician
I've been using Xenon over flourescent for several years with excellent results. Heat:-? not an issue. Lamp replacement not an issue. Customer satisfaction huge issue.......no complaints.
not an issue. Customer satisfaction huge issue.......no complaints.
mjf
Senior Member
Thanks for all the replies:grin:
I have no connection to this company, but some of the contractors in this area have used the product and are very satisfied.
http://www.ecolightled.com/
http://www.ecolightled.com/
Ohmy
Senior Member
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
Go Xenon hardwired against the back wall. There is no wire to see and its pefectly legal and safe. Plus, they are dimmable and provide wide spectrum lighting which is nice with granite or marble countertops.
jmellc
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
- Occupation
- Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
Haven't done any UC lately, but I like the compact T5 type flourescents. I think some of them come with low/high switches. LED rope lighting is good too. Avoid any rope lighting with clamp on sockets and bulbs. Not sure if it's being sold any more. I serviced some of this, it was a pain. Mash sockets into cable, prongs pierce it, bulb snaps into socket. Sockets easily work loose from cable, bulbs from sockets. Bulbs were not marked. I took a bulb to the ltg ctr it came from, took 2 months for them to get new bulbs. On top of that, some were wrong wattage.
about two weeks ago, I was at a b2b conference in town and saw a neat product i thought i should mention. we have a guy here that sells CFL's exclusively and has a new fluorescent shaped bulb that is actually LED's. You bypass the ballast and install this bulb as a retrofit; they also have a fixture that comes w/o a ballast and straightwired sockets for this bulb.
I don't know what all sizes they come in but the one on display was a 48" T12; price was $100. I'm sure you can get them for less because this particular company is always higher than anyone else on price.
I found the following pic through a google search; this is exactly like what was displayed.
We had a company drop off a fixture with these tubes for us to try out. We had the fixture on our bench plugged in for a month or two. Voltage flucuations make these things flicker like crazy.
jwjrw
Senior Member
I use Kichler. I use the ones without the cords. I run the switch legs to a junction box so I only have 1 wire in each fixture. I mount them against the back rail and dimm them. I have been using them for 5 years and have changed maybe 2 bulbs. They make the granite look great and my customers love them. And they have real glass lens which dont yellow like the plastic ones.
weressl
Esteemed Member
Just when we said goodbye to know-and-tube.....
Even though it is low voltage the look of exposed wire just bothers me. I bet he hausfrau will sooner or later starts using the little wire loops as spoon hangers.....
weressl
Esteemed Member
....and you can buy it online here: https://ckdirect.colorkinetics.com/bundle/ew_cove/
~$700 for 12 1' sections, dimmable, low voltage? Not bad if you consider the dierct energy$ saving and the HVAC saving.
LED U/Cab
LED U/Cab
Thanks for the heads up on eW Philips products. Has the project installed any of the eW Profile Powercore common task direct line voltage LED lighting, and if so, would you know if they are dimmable? rbj
LED U/Cab
Thanks for the heads up on eW Philips products. Has the project installed any of the eW Profile Powercore common task direct line voltage LED lighting, and if so, would you know if they are dimmable? rbj
ty
Senior Member
- Location
- 3rd Rock from the Sun
I have installed EW Profile Powercore fixtures into two kitchens. The customer wanted the warm white version. It didn't quite produce the light color he wanted, but was pleased otherwise. I do believe it is dimmable. I can't remember, but I think it needed Electronic Low Voltage types. Dig through the cut sheets online. Its in there somewhere. It is expensive. It requires some planning. You can daisy chain it. It can also be used for retrofit. The one thing that made it better than any other LED fixture at the time was the lack of any big transformers. It may not be the only brand like that now. I thought it was well made.
hunt4679
Senior Member
- Location
- Perry, Ohio
This is the only way I do it as well and the best looking lights I have found (warmest color, matches well with Incandescent bulbs etc...) are the Kichler series Xenon, I've installed tons and never had a complaint. Sure they run warm but what feels hot to your touch really is not as hot as you think it is in regards to lighting.
I typically put the whips 56" off the floor and try to get them poked out in the center of each upper cabinet they will go under.
Here is the one I most commonly use, just be careful the mounting screws that come with them are sometimes a tad long for the thickness of the bottom of a cabinet, nothing a small washer or two doesn't take care of though.
I agree these fixtures are easy to install, look nice and come in many differant sizes. We usually try to keep it to one wire poked out for each fixture.
jwjrw
Senior Member
Thats the only under cabinet lighting I install. One of my gc's uses the ones with the connect cords I perfer the one in the picture.
Led uc lighting
Led uc lighting
I have a customer who is interested in LED strip undercabinet lighting.
Similar to the ones Iwire used. Jescoled makes them also. My question is on connecting from fixture to fixture when range or sink are located between cabinets. I believe we would need to use a Art 300 wiring method (romex), if we wanted to conceal wiring behind sheetrock. Is this right?" If so how and where would you make the connections to LED strip?
Led uc lighting
I have a customer who is interested in LED strip undercabinet lighting.
Similar to the ones Iwire used. Jescoled makes them also. My question is on connecting from fixture to fixture when range or sink are located between cabinets. I believe we would need to use a Art 300 wiring method (romex), if we wanted to conceal wiring behind sheetrock. Is this right?" If so how and where would you make the connections to LED strip?
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