under cabinet lighting

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iwire said:
Too hot for what?
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Too hot to store most foods on the cabinet bottom shelf. I've seen cans bulge from the heat.

Personally I like my plates prewarmed.:)
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Okay, some plates, maybe, but not glasses and ice cream bowls.

I think the NEC requires the NM to be secured to the box.:grin:
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Okay, but I got real close on that one. ;)

The wires are stapled just behind the drywall, and the EGC is attached (with no slack) to the back plate with a real, honest-to-goodness green hex-head screw.

I even made sure that the screw bump was positioned away from the wall to allow a couple of inches of sheath in the box.

Hey, the inspector's supervisor passed it, so I'm good. :cool:
 
brantmacga said:
about two weeks ago, I was at a b2b conference in town and saw a neat product i thought i should mention. we have a guy here that sells CFL's exclusively and has a new fluorescent shaped bulb that is actually LED's. You bypass the ballast and install this bulb as a retrofit; they also have a fixture that comes w/o a ballast and straightwired sockets for this bulb.
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As I mentioned a while back when these were discussed, one would have to be very careful about mis-matching LED and fluorescent tubes and ballasts.

I think they should come up with alternate, non-interchangeable tube-end configurations, which would require tombstone exchanging, to prevent this.



I found the following pic through a google search; this is exactly like what was displayed.

fluorescent_T8_1.jpg
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Don't get me wrong; I'm all for the idea, once they improve reliability and longevity.
 
LarryFine said:
Too hot to store most foods on the cabinet bottom shelf. I've seen cans bulge from the heat.

Okay, some plates, maybe, but not glasses and ice cream bowls.
:cool:
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I've had them for almost 15 years in my own kitchen and the heat has never been an issue. Maybe we're thinking of two different types of xenon lighting.
 
I've been using Xenon over flourescent for several years with excellent results. Heat:-? not an issue. Lamp replacement:confused: not an issue. Customer satisfaction:D huge issue.......no complaints.
 
Go Xenon hardwired against the back wall. There is no wire to see and its pefectly legal and safe. Plus, they are dimmable and provide wide spectrum lighting which is nice with granite or marble countertops.
 
Haven't done any UC lately, but I like the compact T5 type flourescents. I think some of them come with low/high switches. LED rope lighting is good too. Avoid any rope lighting with clamp on sockets and bulbs. Not sure if it's being sold any more. I serviced some of this, it was a pain. Mash sockets into cable, prongs pierce it, bulb snaps into socket. Sockets easily work loose from cable, bulbs from sockets. Bulbs were not marked. I took a bulb to the ltg ctr it came from, took 2 months for them to get new bulbs. On top of that, some were wrong wattage.
 
brantmacga said:
about two weeks ago, I was at a b2b conference in town and saw a neat product i thought i should mention. we have a guy here that sells CFL's exclusively and has a new fluorescent shaped bulb that is actually LED's. You bypass the ballast and install this bulb as a retrofit; they also have a fixture that comes w/o a ballast and straightwired sockets for this bulb.

I don't know what all sizes they come in but the one on display was a 48" T12; price was $100. I'm sure you can get them for less because this particular company is always higher than anyone else on price.

I found the following pic through a google search; this is exactly like what was displayed.

fluorescent_T8_1.jpg
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We had a company drop off a fixture with these tubes for us to try out. We had the fixture on our bench plugged in for a month or two. Voltage flucuations make these things flicker like crazy.
 
I use Kichler. I use the ones without the cords. I run the switch legs to a junction box so I only have 1 wire in each fixture. I mount them against the back rail and dimm them. I have been using them for 5 years and have changed maybe 2 bulbs. They make the granite look great and my customers love them. And they have real glass lens which dont yellow like the plastic ones.
 
iwire said:
LEDs, we have been installing tons of them. We have done an entire large supermarket with all LED lighting and I do mean all.

Monday night I have a couple of guys installing 60' of LEDs under a canopy.

http://www.colorkinetics.com/ls/essentialwhite/ewflexslx/
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Just when we said goodbye to know-and-tube.....:)

Even though it is low voltage the look of exposed wire just bothers me. I bet he hausfrau will sooner or later starts using the little wire loops as spoon hangers.....
 
iwire said:
LEDs, we have been installing tons of them. We have done an entire large supermarket with all LED lighting and I do mean all.

Monday night I have a couple of guys installing 60' of LEDs under a canopy.

http://www.colorkinetics.com/ls/essentialwhite/ewflexslx/
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....and you can buy it online here: https://ckdirect.colorkinetics.com/bundle/ew_cove/

~$700 for 12 1' sections, dimmable, low voltage? Not bad if you consider the dierct energy$ saving and the HVAC saving.
 
LED U/Cab

LED U/Cab

iwire said:
LEDs, we have been installing tons of them. We have done an entire large supermarket with all LED lighting and I do mean all.

Monday night I have a couple of guys installing 60' of LEDs under a canopy.

http://www.colorkinetics.com/ls/essentialwhite/ewflexslx/
Click to expand...


Thanks for the heads up on eW Philips products. Has the project installed any of the eW Profile Powercore common task direct line voltage LED lighting, and if so, would you know if they are dimmable? rbj
 
I have installed EW Profile Powercore fixtures into two kitchens. The customer wanted the warm white version. It didn't quite produce the light color he wanted, but was pleased otherwise. I do believe it is dimmable. I can't remember, but I think it needed Electronic Low Voltage types. Dig through the cut sheets online. Its in there somewhere. It is expensive. It requires some planning. You can daisy chain it. It can also be used for retrofit. The one thing that made it better than any other LED fixture at the time was the lack of any big transformers. It may not be the only brand like that now. I thought it was well made.
 
Mr.Sparkle said:
This is the only way I do it as well and the best looking lights I have found (warmest color, matches well with Incandescent bulbs etc...) are the Kichler series Xenon, I've installed tons and never had a complaint. Sure they run warm but what feels hot to your touch really is not as hot as you think it is in regards to lighting.

I typically put the whips 56" off the floor and try to get them poked out in the center of each upper cabinet they will go under.

Here is the one I most commonly use, just be careful the mounting screws that come with them are sometimes a tad long for the thickness of the bottom of a cabinet, nothing a small washer or two doesn't take care of though.

10580WH.jpg
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I agree these fixtures are easy to install, look nice and come in many differant sizes. We usually try to keep it to one wire poked out for each fixture.
 
hunt4679 said:
I agree these fixtures are easy to install, look nice and come in many differant sizes. We usually try to keep it to one wire poked out for each fixture.
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Thats the only under cabinet lighting I install. One of my gc's uses the ones with the connect cords I perfer the one in the picture.
 
Led uc lighting

Led uc lighting

I have a customer who is interested in LED strip undercabinet lighting.
Similar to the ones Iwire used. Jescoled makes them also. My question is on connecting from fixture to fixture when range or sink are located between cabinets. I believe we would need to use a Art 300 wiring method (romex), if we wanted to conceal wiring behind sheetrock. Is this right?" If so how and where would you make the connections to LED strip?
 
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