Whats your Idea for Installing Under Cabinet Lighting?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Danutdlp

Danutdlp

Member
Location
Seattle, Washington
Hello Everyone,
This is my first time posting and using this place. My boss told me about it and so far the site is great.

I am running under cabinet lighting in a new construcion. I was thinking of running the wire from the switch to each cabinet location and stubbing it out of the wall at a heigt certain to be inside the cabinet. And then I am thinking of coming after the cabinets are installed and putting a remodel box with an outlet in, at each of the locations the wire was stubbed out. I will be installing those round lights with cords that have plugs on the end, and I would just drill a hole in the bottom of the cabinet and plug the lights in the outlet. Is this the best way to do it? Or is there something easier or more simple?
 
Danutdlp said:
Hello Everyone,
This is my first time posting and using this place. My boss told me about it and so far the site is great.

I am running under cabinet lighting in a new construcion. I was thinking of running the wire from the switch to each cabinet location and stubbing it out of the wall at a heigt certain to be inside the cabinet. And then I am thinking of coming after the cabinets are installed and putting a remodel box with an outlet in, at each of the locations the wire was stubbed out. I will be installing those round lights with cords that have plugs on the end, and I would just drill a hole in the bottom of the cabinet and plug the lights in the outlet. Is this the best way to do it? Or is there something easier or more simple?
Click to expand...

As a customer, I wouldn't like that - for sure. I wouldn't want to be dodging receptacles and plugs when putting my plates and coffee mugs away. Not to mention all those holes in my brand new cabinets. Blech.

Puck lights in general have a lousy reputation for durability, or lack thereof. If your boss will allow it, I'd highly recommend NM directly into small flourescent fixtures instead.

I have done an in-wall (i.e. the fixture wire is inside the wall) installation of Xenon puck lights in my own home. Fixture wire goes up to the attic where there is the j-box for the transformer. Wouldn't do it for someone else though just because once the pucks disintegrate it will definitely not be a DIY job to replace them.
 
Danutdlp said:
.

I am running under cabinet lighting in a new construcion. I was thinking of running the wire from the switch to each cabinet location and stubbing it out of the wall at a heigt certain to be inside the cabinet. And then I am thinking of coming after the cabinets are installed and putting a remodel box with an outlet in, at each of the locations the wire was stubbed out. I will be installing those round lights with cords that have plugs on the end, and I would just drill a hole in the bottom of the cabinet and plug the lights in the outlet. Is this the best way to do it? Or is there something easier or more simple?
Click to expand...


Hello, I'm going to be adding (6) under cabinet lights to a kitchen remodel and would like to know about the different options also, the way I've done them is like tallguy NM directly into small flourescent fixture. I was able to hide most of the wire but is this the only other option and is this code compliant???Thanks, JB
 
Danutdlp said:
I will be installing those round lights with cords that have plugs on the end, and I would just drill a hole in the bottom of the cabinet and plug the lights in the outlet.
Click to expand...

Very likely a violation of 400.8(4).

These lights you are talking about are made for DIYs, not electricians.

Find a better quality lighting fixture.
 
iwire said:
Very likely a violation of 400.8(4).

These lights you are talking about are made for DIYs, not electricians.

Find a better quality lighting fixture.
Click to expand...

Is there one you would recommend that would be a quality fixture and installation...also is there anything in Title 24 that would need to be concidered???Thanks, JB:-?
 
CBL said:
Is there one you would recommend that would be a quality fixture and installation...
Click to expand...

Not really as most of my work is commercial.

If you search this site for 'Puck Lights' you will find very unhappy comments.

Pretty much any fixture that comes with a plug already connected is not designed to be installed in compliance with the NEC.

You can't conceal or attach flexible cords to building surfaces and remain in NEC compliance.

You need a fixture made to be hardwired with NM, MC, AC or FMC etc.
 
Another thing about puck lights- they generate a lot of heat. So much so that a jar of peanut butter or a bag of Hershey's kisses will melt inside the cabinet above it. They all contain a large plastic component which will discolor and become brittle over time.
 
iwire said:
You need a fixture made to be hardwired with NM, MC, AC or FMC etc.
Click to expand...

Hello, I did a search and found most of the under cabinet lights were cord and plug but there where quite a few that had 3/8", 1/2" and the ones that were seemed to be better quality also... I found the most informative (I didn't look that long) was Pegasus lighting, has anyone used or heard good/bad reports on them???Thanks, JB
 
Check out Sea gull lighting.com. They have alot of nice under cabinet lighting. I have install Xenon task lights and I like the light it gives out plus you can hardwire them.
 
mount your transformer in the bottom cabinet i put a receptacle beside the dishwasher/disposal. the run 18-2 up to the bottom of the cabinets , verify the hight with the carpenterthen you can just staple your wire to the little lip on the cabinets.

but like its been said pucks are not very reliable but if the ho is set on them id go for it.
 
mattsilkwood said:
i put a receptacle beside the dishwasher/disposal. the run 18-2 up to the bottom of the cabinets , verify the hight with the carpenterthen you can just staple your wire to the little lip on the cabinets..
Click to expand...

Matt if your fishing that 18/2 in the wall you have an NEC violation.
 
mattsilkwood said:
where is that at bob?
and is that also not allowed for a garage door?
Click to expand...

Matt see cords NEC 400.8........Now, the Overhead Door, are you refering to the obstruction sensors? that would be low volt, or do mean the cord from the motor usually ceiling mount receptacle?
 
mattsilkwood said:
where is that at bob?
Click to expand...

411.4(A)

Although if the transformer is listed as Class 2 it may be OK.

and is that also not allowed for a garage door?
Click to expand...

Depends on the wire type your using, that door opener button is covered in 725.

Both are low volt systems, the thing that is different is the current. I believe the door opener will be Class 2 which is basically harmless current and voltage levels.

However, low voltage lighting is often high current and that high current can lead to fires.
 
If your doing under counter lighting the ones that I find best to use are Kitchler. All you do is stub a 14/2 fromt right under the cabinets and there is a transformore that you can butt the wire right up to and the U/C light just plugs into the transformer and you can just keep adding lights onto the first one ;) and if there is a space they have little whips that come with the packs different sizes i think its 9', 12', and 22'. But very good lights best part they are halogen so you can dim they if the HO wants.
 
iwire said:
Matt if your fishing that 18/2 in the wall you have an NEC violation.
Click to expand...
i did a search and found the transformers i used to use( hard wired not plug in, its been a long time since i was on a residential job) but it didnt say if it was class 1 or 2. thats the way i was taught to do it. hope i wasnt doing it wrong. the inspector approved it but that dosent always mean anything.:-?
thanks
 
CBL said:
Hello, I did a search and found most of the under cabinet lights were cord and plug but there where quite a few that had 3/8", 1/2" and the ones that were seemed to be better quality also... I found the most informative (I didn't look that long) was Pegasus lighting, has anyone used or heard good/bad reports on them???Thanks, JB
Click to expand...

Pegasus is who I used in the puck light post above, and I am happy with them so far (6 months in). They are definitely higher quality than what you would get at an orange/blue store.
http://www.pegasusassociates.com/XenonPuckLights.jsp

They claim that the fixture wires are rated for in-wall use, but I couldn't find any documentation to support this. Like I said before, I used them on my own house, but wouldn't put them anywhere else :grin:
 
Hmmm, Pretty Good Idea's I heard so far. I guess I wont do the puck lighting and the plugs. Since I have 3 locations that the under cabinet lighting is going, is it a good Idea to run wire to each location from the switch, instead of jumping from location to location? Also, when I hardwire the light and butt it up against the wall, am I allowed to use a regular black bushing or Do I have to use a connector? And will the inspector say anything about an exposed connector? Or is all he cares about that the wire not be exposed? The HO is out of state right now, so as far as the design is going, he is letting me design and choose what would be best. It's a tiny little beach home he plans on renting out.

Also another question. It's a little debate I have going on with my coworkers, and no one seems to be able to decide on anything. NEC states that you need an outlet for a kitchen counter space of 12" or greater. If the counter space is 32", do you need 1 or 2 outlets? After reading the NEC I say you only need one for that space, because by placing the outlet in the center, you will have less than 24" to the outlet from anywhere on the counter. One of my coworker said's you need 2, because any counter greater than 24" up to 48" requires 2. What do you guys think?
 
Puck lighting is trash and I try to steer people away from it. The system I use are the xenon strip lights from NSL. They are hardwired with 120v just like a fluorescent U/C light but much better. And they're easy to install.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top