Whats your Idea for Installing Under Cabinet Lighting?

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Danutdlp said:
I guess I wont do the puck lighting and the plugs.
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And a choir rang out from the heavens, and it was good. :cool:

Since I have 3 locations that the under cabinet lighting is going, is it a good Idea to run wire to each location from the switch, instead of jumping from location to location?
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If you're using Xenon task lights, you'll have room to splice inside the box, so looping from light to light should be fine. I'd get a specific fixture in mind and look at it, to completely visualize what you'll do.

Also, when I hardwire the light and butt it up against the wall, am I allowed to use a regular black bushing or Do I have to use a connector?
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All cables are to be clamped to their box.

And will the inspector say anything about an exposed connector? Or is all he cares about that the wire not be exposed?
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By the NEC, exposed connectors and cable would be fine, but the homeowner would be much more impressed if the back of the fixture was flush with the wall. Push the loop of slack cable (I prefer 12" of NM) into the wall for future use, and recess the connector into the wall. The slack cable allows you to make up the fixture without standing on your head.

One of my coworker said's you need 2, because any counter greater than 24" up to 48" requires 2. What do you guys think?
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You won the discussion. A receptacle placed 24" off one side will be 8" away from the other edge of the counter.
 
georgestolz said:
If you're using Xenon task lights, you'll have room to splice inside the box, so looping from light to light should be fine.
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You can do that, but I wouldn't recommend it. The last time I looped in and out I regretted it. There is precious little room inside the light for splices, and getting the cover back on with two cable and splices was a real bear. So now I just run a single cable to each and j-box the feeds somewhere else.
 
I too would vote for the seagull ambiance LV undercabinet lights. I use the 9830 socket spaced about 6" centers.

Stub out of the wall with NM into a 5747 wiremold box and splice to the LV 10-2 cable.
 
I've been looking at some Juno UC lights...Xenon, if I recall...I post some numbers (model/price) when I get home/supply houses open.
 
Danutdlp said:
Since I have 3 locations that the under cabinet lighting is going, is it a good Idea to run wire to each location from the switch, instead of jumping from location to location?
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Our resi guys run a 14/2 from the switch to a 4/11 behind the fridge. From there they run one 14/2 to each UCL location.
 
chris kennedy said:
Our resi guys run a 14/2 from the switch to a 4/11 behind the fridge. From there they run one 14/2 to each UCL location.
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Just wondering why they don't just make the switch box a deep 4-11/16" and run the separate cables from there?
 
iwire said:
Just wondering why they don't just make the switch box a deep 4-11/16" and run the separate cables from there?
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All high end custom homes. Kitchen switches are 4, 5, 6 gang. Usually about 6 UCL openings. Box fill is a problem.
 
chris kennedy said:
Our resi guys run a 14/2 from the switch to a 4/11 behind the fridge. From there they run one 14/2 to each UCL location.
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We plant that deep box in the cabinet above the stove...next to the MW outlet.
 
chris kennedy said:
Easier behind the fridge. No cab cut out.
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Easier to troubleshoot when the fridge has been set.

I don't cut the cabinet - that's the cabinet man's job (and responsibility/liability if the cut is "off")
 
How's this angle then...
WHEN ('cause it usually isn't an "if" ;) ) the fixtures are to swapped out to LV, there is an easy access j-box right there.
 
celtic said:
How's this angle then...
WHEN ('cause it usually isn't an "if" ;) ) the fixtures are to swapped out to LV, there is an easy access j-box right there.
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Good point, but not my problem, I don't do houses.
 
guschash said:
Check out Sea gull lighting.com. They have alot of nice under cabinet lighting. I have install Xenon task lights and I like the light it gives out plus you can hardwire them.
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Those are the best performing ive seen. They are little bit more time consuming to install but offer the best light quality. The small flouresant are good if your looking for less expensive and are just looking for "effect", and ease of instalation. They also make a xenon light that looks like a flouresant fixture and has better quality than the flouresant.
 
chris kennedy said:
All high end custom homes. Kitchen switches are 4, 5, 6 gang. Usually about 6 UCL openings. Box fill is a problem.
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Installing a 6 gang box in a kitchen is NOT high end if you ask me... I try not to install anything larger than a 4 gang, and that is usually at the front door...
 
stickboy1375 said:
Installing a 6 gang box in a kitchen is NOT high end if you ask me... I try not to install anything larger than a 4 gang, and that is usually at the front door...
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I agree, anything over a 4 gang looks like crap and is confusing for the HO.

Buy a $52 six gang plate and then buy another after the painter loses the first one!
 
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