Wire Pull

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kwired said:
If you don't want to splice the conductors in the box how else you going to do it?

You can pull conductors out from one side and push them into other side at same time - that would not result in having all 250 feet laying on the ground at one time, but you still pulled that same 250 feet out then pushed back in either way, effectively making it two 250 foot pulls instead of one 500 foot pull.
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Yea so now see how pulling through or not makes a pretty big difference.
 
horsegoer said:
What do you mean how am I going to pull the wire out? THe rope is in the pipe and you use that to pull the wire out. Maybe I'm not following.
So if you were to set the reels at the pullbox and pull one half through you would have to unspool the remainder fo the 2nd half of the wire off the spool? Geez that seems like a lot of wiring on the ground and a lot of extra handling.

Is that what always happens at a pull point? You need to pull ALL the wire out?
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exactly what some of us were getting at, that pull box can add more time than you might think, and the larger the conductors are the more work it takes to handle them.
 
kwired said:
exactly what some of us were getting at, that pull box can add more time than you might think, and the larger the conductors are the more work it takes to handle them.
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Thanks. So I guess the next question when looking at a run with a box is determining whether you can pull through or not.

What are some of the factors/criteria that determine that? Bends I'd assume matter.
 
Strathead said:
I have done this. This situation is ideal for that. Use Southwire wire and a Southwire rope. I am assuming from the description that the OP thinks he can pull straight through the middle pull box. With these parameters I am not confident, but the Southwire rope will give it a chance. Otherwise here is a suggestion. Get a large sheeve (24") hook it to a Lull and put it over the pull box. Tie off the rope, raise the lull, lower the Lull while using the tugger, then when it is at the bottom, tie off the rope and raise the Lull again.
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What your explaining with the Lull and sheaves is if you want to POSSIBLY be able to pull through the pull box?
 
horsegoer said:
Thanks. So I guess the next question when looking at a run with a box is determining whether you can pull through or not.

What are some of the factors/criteria that determine that? Bends I'd assume matter.
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pulling tension needed to make the pull and whether it will damage the conductor(s) or anything else involved
horsegoer said:
Does Simpull wire eliminate the need for lube?
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I'd say it lessens the need but may not eliminate it.
 
horsegoer said:
What do you mean how am I going to pull the wire out? THe rope is in the pipe and you use that to pull the wire out. Maybe I'm not following.
So if you were to set the reels at the pullbox and pull one half through you would have to unspool the remainder fo the 2nd half of the wire off the spool? Geez that seems like a lot of wiring on the ground and a lot of extra handling.

Is that what always happens at a pull point? You need to pull ALL the wire out?
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If you can't pull through the pull point, you have no choice. That is another reason that the layout of the run is very important. You place the pull point as close to one end as possible to reduce the handling of the conductors.

With pulls of this size someone should do a pulling calculation to make sure that the conductors can be pulled in without damage. Even with less than 360° of bend, you can have cases where the sidewall pressure will damage the insulation. That can be very expensive as the damaged conductors will have to be removed and scrapped.
 
Strathead said:
I have done this. This situation is ideal for that. Use Southwire wire and a Southwire rope. I am assuming from the description that the OP thinks he can pull straight through the middle pull box. With these parameters I am not confident, but the Southwire rope will give it a chance. Otherwise here is a suggestion. Get a large sheeve (24") hook it to a Lull and put it over the pull box. Tie off the rope, raise the lull, lower the Lull while using the tugger, then when it is at the bottom, tie off the rope and raise the Lull again.
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What is special about Southwire rope as opposed to Greenlee or any other static rope designed for pulling?
 
horsegoer said:
What do you mean how am I going to pull the wire out? THe rope is in the pipe and you use that to pull the wire out. Maybe I'm not following.
So if you were to set the reels at the pullbox and pull one half through you would have to unspool the remainder fo the 2nd half of the wire off the spool? Geez that seems like a lot of wiring on the ground and a lot of extra handling.

Is that what always happens at a pull point? You need to pull ALL the wire out?
Click to expand...
That is what I mean and as stated unless you are going to splice you have to pull the wire out and back in.
 
don_resqcapt19 said:
If you can't pull through the pull point, you have no choice. That is another reason that the layout of the run is very important. You place the pull point as close to one end as possible to reduce the handling of the conductors.

With pulls of this size someone should do a pulling calculation to make sure that the conductors can be pulled in without damage. Even with less than 360° of bend, you can have cases where the sidewall pressure will damage the insulation. That can be very expensive as the damaged conductors will have to be removed and scrapped.
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Thank you soooooooo much. Helpful
 
On a side note. Regarding deliveries of these reels would get all delivered at once and store onsite or get them delivered either one or a few at a time.

We would have each run paralleled on one reel.
 
When you get conductors(phase and neutral) paralleled on reel do you also get the ground on the same reel or separate? Thanks.
 
kwired said:
If you are pulling the conductors out the pull box in middle of the run then pulling again through the second segment you may even want more than that to physically handle those conductors. They won't be light, even if aluminum they will be heavy enough but copper much worse.
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NECA education department that develops units came back with this answer.

Here is what the team came back with. Let me know if this helps.


Single conductor cable, in this case, 1C #1 is always “labored” (Labor unit applied) as a single conductor for all of the cable estimated.


For example, if there were (4) #1C in a conduit run of 100 feet, then 4 conductors * 100 feet = 400 feet of #1C. Set the attached MLU page.


400 feet * 19 hours per thousand (Column 1)

= 400/1000 * 19 =7.6 hours

or .4 thousand *19 hours = 7.6 hours
 
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