Working with rigid

[don_resqcapt19]

The other reason for straight threads (I was told) that RGS going into a coupling both conduits are supposed to be screwed in far enough so the ends of the conduit would touch with no gap.

And I was taught that the conduit ends should never touch as that could create a ridge that could damage the conductors when they are pulled in.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Tapered threads on the conduit would provide a watertight seal. (Hopefully.)

Note even close to watertight when used with straight thread couplings. especially in vertical applications. The water runs down the outside of the conduit, hits the top of the coupling and then runs down the treads and ends up inside the conduit.

 

[Eddie702]

And I was taught that the conduit ends should never touch as that could create a ridge that could damage the conductors when they are pulled in.

Supposed to ream it so there is no ridge.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Supposed to ream it so there is no ridge.

There is no ridge when your start to assemble the coupling and conduits, but when you butt the ends together, that thin reamed part pushes against the thin reamed part of the other conduit and creates a very sharp ridge.

 

[Dsg319]

I am JIW with mainly commercial experience. Have bent/threaded rigid mainly for underground changovers so precision wasnt paramount.
What technical advice do you have for working with rigid. Eg if i calculate the gain so i can predermine the length of rigid and thread it before bending do you assume it wont fully thread on and take that into account?
Thanks

I understand exactly what you’re asking.

Learn your threader and adjust the depth of your threads per conduit fittings as not all are equal. Example, meyers hubs that I use need the conduit threads really deep in order to not have half the threads hanging out not engaged.

 

[Dsg319]

I always do 1” length threads and can usually do my math for 1” or 7/8” to give my self a little wiggle room