how to use this tool?

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kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Seriously, technology has moved on since I got started in the mid-1960.
I really like my turbo-diesel pickup a lot better than the 56 Crown Vic I was driving in high school.
My house burns half the heatng fuel of the one I grew up in.​


Well there is a difference between the Crown Vic and a pickup to begin with, but maybe put todays turbo-diesel engine into a '56 truck and you have something valid to compare, and half the heating fuel today still likely costs more than it cost to heat back then.

Were the texters using a full keyboard or multiple press codes on a numeric keypad?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
I have seen such contests, some of those kids could still compose a message with the numeric keyboard faster than I could compose the same message on my PC, and I still feel I have fairly good keyboarding skills.
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Here's a German made ratcheting tool that does insulated 20-10AWG for just over $100. If the OP is still following along, this would be a good tool to get if you're going to be using terminals on a regular basis.

http://chadstoolbox.com/wiha-43618-wiha-ratchet-crimper-for-standard-conn.aspx

There are cheaper ones available from Taiwan and China, but I honestly don't know their quality so I can't make recommendations. Generally, the ones made in the US, Sweden or Germany are going to be your best bet in the long run.

Nice try. No picture and sold out.
 

DougAles

Member
I am unsure what the "INSUL ONLY" crimp refers to. Also above that, "INSUL AND NON INSUL" crimps VS "INSUL ONLY" and what applications they are used for?

OP (original poster)

I co-developed the installation training program for Sta-Kon, Spec-Kon and Catamount brand wire terminals.

"Insul Only" nest if for crimping insulated terminals where you wish to maintain the integrity of the insulation.

"Insul and Non Insul" nest is for crimping either insulated or non-insuated terminals where you are not concerned with maintaining the integrity of the insulation on the terminals that have insulation.


Disclaimer, I am an employee of Thomas & Betts - A Member of the ABB Group. All opinions are my own and not those of my employer.
 
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don_resqcapt19

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Illinois
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retired electrician
OP (original poster)

I co-developed the installation training program for Sta-Kon, Spec-Kon and Catamount brand wire terminals.

"Insul Only" nest if for crimping insulated terminals where you wish to maintain the integrity of the insulation.

"Insul and Non Insul" nest is for crimping either insulated or non-insuated terminals where you are not concerned with maintaining the integrity of the insulation on the terminals that have insulation.


Disclaimer, I am an employee of Thomas & Betts - A Member of the ABB Group. All opinions are my own and not those of my employer.
What do the instructions for the terminals made by your company say about the use of crimp tools for terminals intended for use with conductors #10 and smaller?
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
Were the texters using a full keyboard or multiple press codes on a numeric keypad?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

It wouldn't have mattered. The cell phones lost due to latency. The Morse ops had none of that to deal with. The Morse guys were fast. They can do code as fast as a person could read the letters out loud. As soon as the last letter was sent, the Morse receiving end had the message. The phone was a second or two behind which was enough to make it impossible to beat the Morse Code operators.
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Here's a German made ratcheting tool that does insulated 20-10AWG for just over $100. If the OP is still following along, this would be a good tool to get if you're going to be using terminals on a regular basis.

http://chadstoolbox.com/wiha-43618-wiha-ratchet-crimper-for-standard-conn.aspx

There are cheaper ones available from Taiwan and China, but I honestly don't know their quality so I can't make recommendations. Generally, the ones made in the US, Sweden or Germany are going to be your best bet in the long run.

Nice try. No picture and sold out.
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
K8 - There is no question in my mind you are competent, knowledgeable and a good guy. The following comments are offered with all due respect.


And I strongly feel there is no reason to make a poorly crimped connection. That's from decades of experience.

How about being in the middle of nowhere, not expecting to have to deal with a certain size connection, and having no time to get one. I guess one would have to do work on payloaders broke down in blizzards to get the real feel for that. There is a porta-sol and solder in my connector case. I haven't had to use it in a while, but it's sure nice to have from time to time.


That's great. Not to mention - could you stop the solder from wicking up the #22 wire and causing a stress cracking suceptable area? Doesn't matter, this doesn't have anything to do with reliability of a properly crimped or properly soldered connection.

Yes. With proper surface prepping, proper temp and good control, solder can be placed on the connector end and stopped before it slips into the conductor. Most people use too much solder and too high of temp for this to work.


Last time I did that, I used silver solder - floride flux (as I recall). I don't recall any tendency for failure. Can't say I have ever tried this with Lead/Tin. Still, SAA

It can be done with good PbTn solder. The surface prepping takes some time, so I basically only fool with it on a bet or just to show off. I also have various chemmies to do surface prep with. My favorite is AG FluxAll. It's oxalic acid, basically. Nasty stuff, but removes oxidation by chemical reaction and is what I use on badly corroded wires.



Some Grayback stoking a boiler to power his steam driven radio transmitter. :roll: Just teasing - not whipping. There will always be a place for morse operators and packet radio as well

Actually, the sender was Chip Margelli, the V.P. of Marketing for Heil Sound, the folks that make Heil mikes that rock and roll stars use.

In May 2005, Margelli and partner Ken Miller, K6CTW, enjoyed their "15 minutes of Amateur Radio fame" with an appearance on The Tonight Show with Jay Leno on NBC. Using Morse code, the two radio amateurs went head to head with US cell-phone text messaging champ Ben Cook and his partner to see which mode would get the message through in the shortest time. Margelli, Miller and Morse won hands down.

As for being a Grayback:

Margelli holds both bachelor's and master's degrees (political science and business administration, respectively) from the University of Washington. He speaks fluent Japanese.

He used to work for the radio company Yaesu. I think they make radios for airplanes. They are a popular brand of amateur radio. High quality stuff.

Seriously, technology has moved on since I got started in the mid-1960.
I really like my turbo-diesel pickup a lot better than the 56 Crown Vic I was driving in high school.
My house burns half the heatng fuel of the one I grew up in.
Yes, I taught my kid how to clean and solder the magnet wire leads coming out of the hand-crank generator he wound for science fair.
Crimped lug connections have generally supplanted soldered lug connections. One would be hard pressed to find a soldered lug connection on any airplane built in the last 30 years.
And yes, I have spent a lot of time replacing improperly crimped cheap lugs - but I did it with properly crimped good lugs.

You might considered reading the article I posted and maybe even look at the AeroElectric website articles on connections. It is pretty interesting. And this guy does have his documentation

I don't expect to convince you otherwise. You have 40+ years developing your process. I do respect that. I also don't see any reason to saddle anyone with 1960s technology.

ice

I did breeze through it. Once I saw there seemed to be no mention of proper temps and surface prepping I kind of lost interest.

Soldering is not 1960's technology. More like 1860's. Well, 1890's, anyway.

An EC I have worked for in the past is a friend of mine. I could just see the steam coming from his ears if he saw me soldering terminals on wires working on a job he had. I know better than to even suggest it unless there was a valid reason. A good soldered connection may take several minutes as opposed to several seconds to slam a crimp on.

However, when I do work on his equipment and toys, it's all soldered and shrunk. I even have different colors of shrink tube to match any decor or conductor color. :p

You are correct about there being no soldered connections on aircraft. Same for cars. But they are machine crimps, set and calibrated. I haven't looked in a new airplane lately, but I do know what is in cars. In cars, there is NEVER a crimp done under insulation. It's metal to metal. The insulation is part of the connector and installed after crimping.

Oh, and while we are on this subject......

Back in the 80's Buick came up with the bright idea to bury the headlight controller under the dash, requiring the entire dash (9 hour job) to be removed when working on them. The controller shuttled power to the headlights via a 1/4" spade terminal (factory crimped) and I saw a half dozen of them fail, leaving the customer in the dark, literally. The failure damaged both the control board and connector. That was about 200 bucks worth of parts. I made the repairs using solder and never heard of a failure. Buick only did that for a year or two.
 
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broadgage

Senior Member
Location
London, England
My work is largely maintenance, repair and fault finding, with less new installation work than many electricians.

A large proportion of the faults that I find are defective crimp connections, this applies to both those within mass produced equipment and those done in the field by electricians.

Heavy current connections are more vulnerable, but I have found a lot of failed connections loaded to one amp or less !
I have more faith in soldering than crimping in many circumstances. Here in the UK, as in the USA, there are numerous very cheap crimping tools sold in high street stores that are of very doubtful qaulity.
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
My work is largely maintenance, repair and fault finding, with less new installation work than many electricians.

A large proportion of the faults that I find are defective crimp connections, this applies to both those within mass produced equipment and those done in the field by electricians.

Heavy current connections are more vulnerable, but I have found a lot of failed connections loaded to one amp or less !
I have more faith in soldering than crimping in many circumstances. Here in the UK, as in the USA, there are numerous very cheap crimping tools sold in high street stores that are of very doubtful qaulity.

K8MHZ faces Britain and bows.

:p
 

DougAles

Member

iceworm

Curmudgeon still using printed IEEE Color Books
Location
North of the 65 parallel
Occupation
EE (Field - as little design as possible)
My work is largely maintenance, repair and fault finding, with less new installation work than many electricians.

A large proportion of the faults that I find are defective crimp connections, this applies to both those within mass produced equipment and those done in the field by electricians.

Heavy current connections are more vulnerable, but I have found a lot of failed connections loaded to one amp or less !
I have more faith in soldering than crimping in many circumstances. Here in the UK, as in the USA, there are numerous very cheap crimping tools sold in high street stores that are of very doubtful qaulity.

#1
So you want to take someone that is known to use inferior parts and inferior tools to make crimps - and give them a soldering iron, or in K8's choice, a torch, and have them make soldered connections. And in your mind this makes for a more reliable product.

Hummmm ... interesting concept.

#2
second translation:
You (personally) use good quality parts and tools, and employ good work practices. And your preference is to use soldered connections. Okay. I would not expect you to change.

However, I would expect that if you were doing crimps, you would use good quality parts and tools, and employ good work practices, and the outcome would be equally reliable as your soldered connections - far more reliable than the work of the dipstick in translation #1.

I absolutely agree that poor parts, poor tools, and poor workmanship produce equally poor reliability - regardless is the connection are soldered or crimped.

For low volume maintenance jobs, the poor crimp tools can be overcome. It is difficult, takes practice, but possible. Poor quality parts cannot be overcome. Any discussion that is based on, "Good quality crimps are not possible because people use auto store crimp terminals", is flawed. Because you are right - one cannot do a good job with junk for parts. But that is true for any job - poor parts make for a poor job. And poor tools certainly don't help.

Expanding on an earlier comment: I have no interest in convincing you or K8 of the advantages of crimped terminals. You (plural) have the faith. I do have an interest in anyone listening to understand that it is okay to embrace mid-20th century technology prior to mid-21st century.

ice
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
Ice,

A portasol is a butane heated iron, not a torch.

sik5%281%29.jpg

Other companies make them, too.
 

iceworm

Curmudgeon still using printed IEEE Color Books
Location
North of the 65 parallel
Occupation
EE (Field - as little design as possible)
This post is 95% fluff and smoke - unless it is 99%. My discussion is based on "reliability of properly crimped connections vs properly soldered connections". Near as I can tell, your discussion is based on "poor quality crimps using poor quality parts are inferior to properly soldered connections". As far as your discussion goes, I absolutely agree.

... Back in the 80's Buick came up with the bright idea to bury the headlight controller under the dash, requiring the entire dash (9 hour job) to be removed when working on them. The controller shuttled power to the headlights via a 1/4" spade terminal (factory crimped) and I saw a half dozen of them fail, leaving the customer in the dark, literally. The failure damaged both the control board and connector. That was about 200 bucks worth of parts. I made the repairs using solder and never heard of a failure. Buick only did that for a year or two.
This is an example of the fluff. Buick made a poor design decision. That has nothing to do with whether the connection was crimped or soldered. That part was only part of the poor design.

How about being in the middle of nowhere, not expecting to have to deal with a certain size connection, and having no time to get one. I guess one would have to do work on payloaders broke down in blizzards to get the real feel for that. There is a porta-sol and solder in my connector case. I haven't had to use it in a while, but it's sure nice to have from time to time. ...

This is still fluff - but I will respond:
I do tend to work far enough out that one can see the edge of earth from the top of a single story building. And sometimes is is -40F and 40 knots (although not usually at the same time). It takes a tent and a space heater to do control wire maintenance. If one bends the wires, it tends to crack the insulation. Very few want to use a torch around a $M piece of machinery - especially out in the field. Definitely want a someone with a fire extinguisher in close proximity. It's tough to get diesel lit at -40F. Still, it is an open flame. I'd likely tend toward using crimps - even cheap tools with cheap crimps, until I could get it in the barn and work in shirt sleeves.

late note: I saw your comment about the device not being a torch. Okay, a similar device I have seen had an open flame heating a soldering tip. It was pretty closed in, but still an open flame. Obviously not the same as you are describing. Still, as I recall, vapor pressure of butane goes to zero around freezing. I'm surprised it even comes out of the bottle if it is cold.

(soldering a #22 wire in an open barrel #10 lug and not having the solder wick up the wire - ice) Yes. With proper surface prepping, proper temp and good control, solder can be placed on the connector end and stopped before it slips into the conductor. Most people use too much solder and too high of temp for this to work. ...
Temperature control on a #10 lug, soldering to a #22 wire - Oooookaaay. I'm sure you have a conpetent work practice to do this. All the same - still fluff This still has nothing to do with comparing a properly soldered connection to a properly crimped connection.

No question your skill set is amazing. However, you are describing a skill set where possibly you are unique through out the earth. Very difficult for me to recommend a practice where there is only one person available.

... I did breeze through it. (AeroElectric article - ice) Once I saw there seemed to be no mention of proper temps and surface prepping I kind of lost interest. ...
Yes, you really did breeze through it. The article was about crimped terminals - not soldered terminals. There should not have been any expectation of prepping for a soldered terminal.

Your response has the flavor of:
1. You did not read it all.
2. Or you only read the last paragraph
Dispelling a Myth

Some folks recommend a combination of soldering in
addition to crimped joints for reliability. Keep in mind that
the Boeings, Beeches, Pipers and even the lowly Cessnas
haven?t soldered a terminal on a wire in over 30 years.
People like AMP and Molex have carved an honorable
place for themselves in the aviation marketplace selling
termination systems that do not require solder to achieve
the highest levels of reliability. Please forget the solder.
It did not say what you wanted to hear, so you discounted it. I'm sorry for the harsh words - but that is what it sounds like.

We are getting repetative - I'm not seeing any new information or arguements. Probably time for me to give this one up.

Speaking of being repetative:
I have no interest in convincing you of the advantages of crimped terminals. You (and broadgage) have the faith. I do have an interest in anyone listening to understand that it is okay to embrace mid-20th century technology prior to mid-21st century

ice
 

iceworm

Curmudgeon still using printed IEEE Color Books
Location
North of the 65 parallel
Occupation
EE (Field - as little design as possible)
I did look for failure analysis data some years back. The context was specific to OBAM light aircraft. I pawed through NTBS reports looking for electrical failures. Nothing about terminals.

AC-43.13-1B definitely has a peference for crimped terminals:
SECTION 14. TERMINAL REPAIRS
11-174. GENERAL.
a. Selection of Wire Terminals.
(7) Solder/solderless.
Pre-insulated crimp-type ring-tongue terminals
are preferred.​

These guys and girls are still dealing with fabric and wood spars, so I don't think it is a case of insisting on moving to new technology. I think it is a case of what works best. This is the best I've got for support.

However, there is likely only one person on here that has looked at failure analysis data for crimped vs soldered terminals. Terminator - Do you have any data on this? An anecdotal synopsis is sufficient. I'm certainly not asking for you to spend time looking it up.

ice​
 

K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
Ice,

The butane irons don't use a flame. They flame when you first light them, but there is what looks like steel wool inside that just glow red, like a catalytic heater.

It doesn't get -40 here, but I do know that the butane solder irons, just like a butane lighter, work fine below freezing. If it's not cold enough to freeze a propane heater or a butane lighter, the butane irons should also work.

No question your skill set is amazing. However, you are describing a skill set where possibly you are unique through out the earth. Very difficult for me to recommend a practice where there is only one person available.

Thank you for that. Indeed, among our group, soldering skills are a rarity. But among ham radio operators, it is quite common. Admittedly, ham radio is a bit of a legacy pursuit, but there are other groups, like AV hobbyists that build their own amps, that also consist of many skilled solderers.

I'm not totally stuck in the dark ages. At least I have progressed from solder pots and Western Union splices to manufactured terminals. When I was in high school one of the requirements for the electronics class was to be able to do a good WU splice. I know of one local antenna manufacturer that uses solder pots to build their antennas with, though. They also use temp controlled solder stations. The solder pots are very fast compared to using an iron or a gun. I got to do the solder pot job one day. That was the first time I had ever actually used one.
 

GoldDigger

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Placerville, CA, USA
Occupation
Retired PV System Designer
Are you familiar (at least second hand) with the venerable practice of lead wiping, as used by plumbers and for lead sheathed cables?

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K8MHZ

Senior Member
Location
Michigan. It's a beautiful peninsula, I've looked
Occupation
Electrician
Are you familiar (at least second hand) with the venerable practice of lead wiping, as used by plumbers and for lead sheathed cables?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I have seen it done by auto body repair guys from the old days. I haven't seen it done on plumbing or electrical but I did find this video:

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x13toc_how-to-wipe-a-lead-joint_tech

Both use LOTS of lead to do the job. It's also a different skill to work with non-eutectic metal and do the forming and application in the pliable stage and being able to keep the lead in the proper temp range using a torch.

Before there was Bondo, all dent work on cars was filled with lead using wiping. Lead bodywork outlasts fiberglass repairs by an order of magnitude, but I don't even think it's legal to do anymore.
 

GoldDigger

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Staff member
Location
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Retired PV System Designer
I have seen it done by auto body repair guys from the old days. I haven't seen it done on plumbing or electrical but I did find this video:
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x13toc_how-to-wipe-a-lead-joint_tech
Both use LOTS of lead to do the job. It's also a different skill to work with non-eutectic metal and do the forming and application in the pliable stage and being able to keep the lead in the proper temp range using a torch.
Indeed a cool video. A lot of skill on display there, but a few things caught my eye:
1. It sure looks like he was using a 40/60 bar rather than 60/40! (different melting point, but still lower than the alloy used in the lead pipe and flanges.
2. Watching at it, I can't help but shudder at what looks like the world's largest cold solder joint. (That's the electronics tech in me.....)
 
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