Bending PVC

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If you have a heating device and forming jig set up for the purpose of making 100's of something, doesn't that start to encroach "production" definition more so then "field bend"?

The OP later mentioned questioning his NRTL rep on this - so sounds more like a production thing then a field bend as well.
 
kwired said:
If you have a heating device and forming jig set up for the purpose of making 100's of something, doesn't that start to encroach "production" definition more so then "field bend"?

The OP later mentioned questioning his NRTL rep on this - so sounds more like a production thing then a field bend as well.
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It is indeed manufacturing done inside our factory, for integration into listed product which will be inspected at our plant by the NRTL inspector, go through the NRTL testing lab for standards conformance, and labeled before it gets out in the field.

I don't want to rub noses with the members and moderators on this forum. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and it's to be respected whether in agreement or not. Nobody wants to be surrounded by Yes people. If one person's seeing something one way, others will to, and that's what needs to be addressed. I do appreciate the heads up on what the NEC says about it because we always want to be bulletproof with the NEC. The last thing any manufacturer wants is compliance issues being questioned in the field by an AHJ, an EC, a PE or anyone else.

The final say will be by the NRTL. If they list it - it's good to go. It's no different than luminaire fixture wire being undersized for the OCPD - the fixture wire is integrated to the listed luminaire and the NEC only regulates the wire (branch circuit) that connects to it.

Thanks again for everyone's input.
 
mgookin said:
It is indeed manufacturing done inside our factory, for integration into listed product which will be inspected at our plant by the NRTL inspector, go through the NRTL testing lab for standards conformance, and labeled before it gets out in the field.

I don't want to rub noses with the members and moderators on this forum. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and it's to be respected whether in agreement or not. Nobody wants to be surrounded by Yes people. If one person's seeing something one way, others will to, and that's what needs to be addressed. I do appreciate the heads up on what the NEC says about it because we always want to be bulletproof with the NEC. The last thing any manufacturer wants is compliance issues being questioned in the field by an AHJ, an EC, a PE or anyone else.

The final say will be by the NRTL. If they list it - it's good to go. It's no different than luminaire fixture wire being undersized for the OCPD - the fixture wire is integrated to the listed luminaire and the NEC only regulates the wire (branch circuit) that connects to it.

Thanks again for everyone's input.
Click to expand...
I haven't read every post so this might have been mentioned but one thing I have done often is glue non metallic sealtite into pvc. I realized this was probably not up to code but then it actually came up in a ceu class. The instructor said if you use the right glue it is acceptable. (not sure if that is like what plumbers use or not) I see home depot is selling 1/2 and 3/4 sealtite whips for this purpose, although there's come with connectors on the ends.
Just a thought, the right glue and inspectors approval might be the easiest and quickest.
 
GerryB said:
I haven't read every post so this might have been mentioned but one thing I have done often is glue non metallic sealtite into pvc. I realized this was probably not up to code but then it actually came up in a ceu class. The instructor said if you use the right glue it is acceptable. (not sure if that is like what plumbers use or not) I see home depot is selling 1/2 and 3/4 sealtite whips for this purpose, although there's come with connectors on the ends.
Just a thought, the right glue and inspectors approval might be the easiest and quickest.
Click to expand...

Question becomes if those assemblies sold at HD are a listed fitting as sold, if so then that doesn't necessarily mean you can build your own unless you find instructions with the separate components that allow such. Yes you can "make it work" and many have, it may be better then some makeshift options but still doesn't mean is code compliant.
 
GerryB said:
one thing I have done often is glue non metallic sealtite into pvc. I realized this was probably not up to code but then it actually came up in a ceu class. The instructor said if you use the right glue it is acceptable.
Click to expand...

It would have to be PVC to LFNC and fittings listed for both. I think Carlon makes some.
 
GerryB said:
I haven't read every post so this might have been mentioned but one thing I have done often is glue non metallic sealtite into pvc. I realized this was probably not up to code but then it actually came up in a ceu class. The instructor said if you use the right glue it is acceptable. (not sure if that is like what plumbers use or not) I see home depot is selling 1/2 and 3/4 sealtite whips for this purpose, although there's come with connectors on the ends.
Just a thought, the right glue and inspectors approval might be the easiest and quickest.
Click to expand...

kwired said:
Question becomes if those assemblies sold at HD are a listed fitting as sold, if so then that doesn't necessarily mean you can build your own unless you find instructions with the separate components that allow such. Yes you can "make it work" and many have, it may be better then some makeshift options but still doesn't mean is code compliant.
Click to expand...

I know I have seen a "flexible" PVC fitting at big box stores before but couldn't remember just exactly what they were composed of.

The one I found here looks like it is just a short piece of NMLT flex, two one piece NMLT flex fittings and two PVC female adapters all pre-assembled.

I would hate to pull through a run with any significant length with those in it, let alone try to get a fish tape through them before the pull.
 
My hats off to the OP for coming up with a simple solution with a toaster and a wooden jig. Thinking outside the box works for me too!:thumbsup:
 
iwire said:
We use jigs often, all you really need is a single flat board and screws longer than the PVC is thick.
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That was the idea I started with but I thought it would leave dimples in the conduit.

The jig works nice because I don't have to be in a hurry to cool it. I've only made 2 so far and both I just left in the jig, went and did something else, came back and got the piece when cool.

I have noticed the ends slightly deform and require minor rework; I'm going to try the spring trick to hold the end round.
 
iwire said:
Second time asking, no one seems to able to answer. :D
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I think that when an inspector comes onto a job and finds destroyed conduit being installed he has a process he can use to say "that's not going to fly on this job".

Think of all the "innovation" we've seen on jobs. I'm sure somebody has laid their pipe on the car motor, stuck it up the exhaust pipe, built a campfire, etc. and damaged the last piece of pipe on the jobsite and installed it anyway with the burnt part rotated so the inspector can't see it. The Article gives the inspector the opportunity to say that's not going to pass inspection.

Walking on a job as an inspector one of the first things you notice is the piping and that speaks volumes about what you're going to find while going through the rest of the work. Bad piping = turning more screws because you know there's bad work to be found. Beautiful piping means you inspect less of a representative sample of the work.
 
iwire said:
Second time asking, no one seems to able to answer. :D
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So long as the conduit is not damaged, the means is irrelevant.

The addition of the language adding the 'equipment shall be identified for the purpose' is not providing any additional protection from damage. It's also so vague that it's nearly impossible to define.

I have used Iwire's board and screw method. It works great. I have used heat guns. They work great. In a pinch, I have used torches. Not so great, but if there is no hurry, good bends can be made with them.

Years ago, I was challeged by an inspector to heat PVC with a torch enough to bend without damaging it. I did it as he watched. Patiently. :D His response was 'good job'. We got our sticker and a lecture about making sure we didn't char the conduit if we used a torch.

'Identified' simply means it looks like it will work. Stupid rule.
 
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mgookin said:
Walking on a job as an inspector one of the first things you notice is the piping and that speaks volumes about what you're going to find while going through the rest of the work. Bad piping = turning more screws because you know there's bad work to be found. Beautiful piping means you inspect less of a representative sample of the work.
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That's so true. Quality work is usually consistent throughout the job. The opposite is also usually true.

I would tend to trust an "unofficial" modification by someone who does high-quality work as I would know their attention to detail. Doesn't always work out but I appreciate the quality anyway.
 
K8MHZ said:
If you are using a torch to bend PVC, make sure there are no cans of grey automotive primer spray paint visible on the job. That makes the inspectors suspicious sometimes.

:angel:
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Thanks for the tip. Now I can salvage a few of those bends. :D
 
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