Chase nipple ul listed for Bonding

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ActionDave said:
The metal to metal contact from all the parts does all the bonding. If the standard lock ring was any kind of special bonding connection there wouldn't be any reason for bond bushings or bonding lock rings.
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OK... in this case, with a chase nipple, use a bonding lock ring inside the second box and land a ground wire on it from the first box, which we will assume is bonded by way of an EMT coupling and regular locking ring. This way the second box is also bonded.
 
ActionDave said:
The metal to metal contact from all the parts does all the bonding. If the standard lock ring was any kind of special bonding connection there wouldn't be any reason for bond bushings or bonding lock rings.
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Yes, the metal to metal contact does the bonding. To me the chase nipple itself does not bond anything. It does not have a threaded nor bolted connection to the butted box that it is inserted from. (Sorry if this is worded awkwardly)
 
A chase nipple is designed to connect two metal objects together. I've never seen any documentation that suggests it cannot be used to bond those two objects together.
 
TwoBlocked said:
OK... in this case, with a chase nipple, use a bonding lock ring inside the second box and land a ground wire on it from the first box, which we will assume is bonded by way of an EMT coupling and regular locking ring. This way the second box is also bonded.
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That's not necessary since everything involved is already metal.
TwoBlocked said:
Yes, the metal to metal contact does the bonding. To me the chase nipple itself does not bond anything. It does not have a threaded nor bolted connection to the butted box that it is inserted from. (Sorry if this is worded awkwardly)
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No, it's not worded awkwardly. The lock ring on any fitting isn't the sole bonding connection. The metal fitting, (in this case a chase nipple, but it could be a seal tite connector, emt connector, threadless rigid connector, etc) the metal enclosure, the metal lock ring all work together to bond all the parts. You don't ever need two lock rings or extra wire in this context. You don't even need two lock rings with threaded rigid conduit, you can use a lock ring on the back and a metal bushing on the end of the conduit.
 
Was told a few years ago at an IAEI continuing education class that chase nipples are not permitted to be screwed into a heavy wall coupling. Rigid conduit has tapered threads to form a tight fit where as chase nipples have a straight thread that bottoms out easily into heavy wall couplings. Usually after the second or third thread on RMC a locknut will require more force to screw onto the conduit unlike threads on a chase nipple. On very small IEC motors with undersized pecker head we always screwed a chase nipple thru pecker head to a coupling to save space. Can never remember a quality steel locknut on a chase nipple made up tight ever coming loose. Stopped using flimsy garbage aluminum or die cast locknuts on chase nipples & RMC.
 
infinity said:
A chase nipple is designed to connect two metal objects together. I've never seen any documentation that suggests it cannot be used to bond those two objects together.
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But what documentation have you seen that says it CAN be used to bond two objects together?

250.96 Bonding Other Enclosures (A) General ... Any nonconductive paint, enamel, or similar coating shall be removed at threads, contact points, and contact surfaces or shall be connected by means of fittings designed so as to make such removal unnecessary.

I don't see the removal of paint being described when using a chase nipple and locknut to bond two enclosures together. But then I am imagining painted enclosures. If they are galvanized, maybe it's ok.
 
TwoBlocked said:
I don't see the removal of paint being described when using a chase nipple and locknut to bond two enclosures together. But then I am imagining painted enclosures.
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Doesn't the lock-nut accomplish that with any connector?

As I said earlier, would adding a second lock-nut work on the flange end?
 
LarryFine said:
Doesn't the lock-nut accomplish that with any connector?

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Sure, against the surface it digs into, but when there is two boxes butted against each other, no.
LarryFine said:
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As I said earlier, would adding a second lock-nut work on the flange end?
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I have pondered that. I don't think a chase nipple is long enough, but a star washer might work.
 
Question, having trouble picturing. Two enclosure and connecting via a chase nipple, the space between the 2 enclosures would be inadequate to put the covers on? Chase nipples don't leave any space between the 2 surfaces.

AFA acting to serve as bonding connection between the 2 enclosures don't see the issue so long you make a clean bond, no paint. Other option would be to add bonding bushing to the chase nipple and wire bond thru to the flanged side of nipple's enclosure.
 
Fred B said:
Question, having trouble picturing. Two enclosure and connecting via a chase nipple, the space between the 2 enclosures would be inadequate to put the covers on? Chase nipples don't leave any space between the 2 surfaces.

AFA acting to serve as bonding connection between the 2 enclosures don't see the issue so long you make a clean bond, no paint. Other option would be to add bonding bushing to the chase nipple and wire bond thru to the flanged side of nipple's enclosure.
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Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Are there any specific application guidelines in the instructions or listing? I don't really like two enclosures butting together.
 
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