Keep in mind the Siemens breaker was tested and listed to go into Siemens panels, and the same for GE. You were installing it in something other than what it was tested for.
First. About the GE breakers. Since GE Singapore still make those versions of breakers supplied to the Phils. Is it possible they are using the same old parts but the defect was already fixed so in my 2010 versions with same old common trip. There is no more leaning forward of the black common trip piece (maybe the enclosure spacing was fixed already)? Was your made in the 1990s?
Btw.. I forget to ask you something about the GE panel above. I have never seen even one of these in the entire country because we don't have it in stock anywhere (remember we just used locally made panel).
Since last year I wanted to know how thick was the bus bar stubs of the GE panel, because I wanted to know if the Siemens panel bus bar stub was a bit thicker or the same.
The locally made bus bar stubs were a bit thinner than the Siemens panel bus bar stubs, so I wondered if the thickness was made to match the original GE panels, what do you think?
I was thinking of all of them last year when I wondering why there was a gap in between the spring clips and bus bar stubs of the Siemens panel and GFCI breakers. But Siemens told me it was no problem (that's why it took me months before I finally had the panel installed).
The Siemens P1224B1100CU Load Center listed the QPF breakers (GFCI breakers) as compatible and even Siemens Engineering told me they were made for each other. However. Something puzzled me last year and still now. The reqular Siemens QP breakers have smaller clip distance that totally bite the Siemens bus bar stubs such that you couldn't insert any feeler into it. But the Siemens GFCI breakers have wider gaps. When I asked Siemens about this. They didn't answer exactly why just saying the panel and GFCI breakers are listed (hence I'm really using them where they tested them to be listed).
No samples sadly.
In residential I saw 2 wires going to a breaker only rated for one all the time. No issue and if the wires are the same size I don't see that much of a problem.
By "flatter" I mean still a circular cross section, but with a larger radius. To get the same contact pressure with a larger footprint area (under the screw point, against the deformed wire), requires a higher force.Yes I tried it many times since it is very easy to trip it by just inserting the clip which moves the bimetalic strip and trip it (this instantly cut the continuity in the multimeter test). So there is no more problems.
Whatever. Do you have any sample of a counterfeit breaker? How does the inside look like? Maybe the bimetallic strip is just piece of metal that is not bi metal but just one piece? Or are counterfeit breakers components the same ones from the plants and only assembled at basement of the counterfeiters or do they make separate springs, etc. for the components?
Also please don't miss message #150 about inserting 2 wires inside terminal lugs of breakers. Why did you see it in many residentials? Don't they use wire nut or alumiconn instead? In message #150, I was asking what torque must be used for two AWG 10 inserted:
Why would AWG 6 be flatter than AWG 10? AWG 6 is thicker, why is it flatter? maybe because bigger hence flatter at small section? About the two AWG 10. Imagine there were on top of each other and the torque is just 20 lb-in. If they stay on top of each other, the area may not reach the minimum required hence bigger torque value can make sure they are pressed or squished for more contact. Isn't it?
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Finally the torque screwdrivers have arrived (along with the dependable alumiconn). And it's very good. No more concerned whether the electrican turn breaker lugs too tight or too loose. When the screwdriver reached the desired torque. It slips. But for those expert electricians who are used to it. I think you can get good estimate of 25 lb-in and just like basketball throw the ball in the basket dead center.
My question is this. If there are two wires inserted in one breaker terminal. What must be the torque for say two AWG 10 wires? Must it be 20 in-lbs or 25 in-lbs. What do you think?
Getting the desired torque is very important to be sure the two wires and terminal lugs should have conduction at least equal to the wire original area.
