ivsenroute
Senior Member
- Location
- Florida
Bob, like the new avatar. did you buy a fluke?
Didn't but the example given is an easy one to check with a tracer and continuity test. I guess you could empty the pipe of water and do the same??? To keep in the anaolgy - this would be taking a closer squinting look, but short of waiting for the quack... :roll:Why did you're rules of ducks suddenly change?
In the case at hand - he's more than reasonably sure it is an electrode -
Really, how?
:roll: One would assume permits would be taken out for modification. That is if plastic has become a popular change there - and that too would be a recent memory of the owner quite possibly.The house was built in early 70's so most likely is copper water pipe coming in.
However if asked 'I have a metal water pipe - and my inspector said I need to bring some silly wire to it for something called an electrode? What should I do?' Your answer might be different... As it has in the bazzilion other threads where you have said 'if the electrode exists you need make it part of the electrode sytem.' In this case short of finding out for sure - he would be in violation of existing codes for his new work - the point of connection in this case is questionable.... Answer the question - or put a blanket on your donkey... CYAI would be looking for that same excuse and not feel the least bit guilty about it knowing the NEC allows a million amp service to be ground to earth with just one or two rods.
Drain all the water out of the pipe and wait for it to dry, while the house is occupied? Piece of cake. :roll:e57 said:Didn't but the example given is an easy one to check with a tracer and continuity test. I guess you could empty the pipe of water and do the same???Why did you're rules of ducks suddenly change?
So, we are seeing through the dirt by asking the homeowner if he recalls ever repairing the pipe outside and how, and assuming it got inspected back then if it was repaired, and that it was a professional plumber and not a DIY, and then assuming our continuity test is not giving us a false positive through some conductive (yet insufficient for a decent grounding path)...e57 said:In the case at hand - he's more than reasonably sure it is an electrode -Really, how?:roll: One would assume permits would be taken out for modification. That is if plastic has become a popular change there - and that too would be a recent memory of the owner quite possibly.The house was built in early 70's so most likely is copper water pipe coming in.
Bob, like the new avatar. did you buy a fluke?
Yeah - why not? If it were not for the defensive additude - it could easily be reversed to say "Prove it isn't!" As opposed to saying "Prove it is." It is after-all his client wanting it connected <5'... If it were an inspector saying it - they may want you to 'prove it isn't'...Drain all the water out of the pipe and wait for it to dry, while the house is occupied? Piece of cake. :roll:
So, we are seeing through the dirt by asking the homeowner if he recalls ever repairing the pipe outside and how, and assuming it got inspected back then if it was repaired, and that it was a professional plumber and not a DIY, and then assuming our continuity test is not giving us a false positive through some conductive (yet insufficient for a decent grounding path)...
...sounds perfectly reasonable. :roll:
As mentioned - my own home would be a violation is held to todays code - the service was done in the 60's... And it was allowed prior to 93 - Done in a way I remember doing... But - when I get around to redoing that service - I'm gonna be inspected for todays code for electrodes and bonding - not the 60's or 1931 when the house was built.I think it's more reasonable to assume that the original installation was not a code violation, so therefore it is not a violation to leave it be.
Around here at least - you would be asked to prove it is not an electrode. The burden of prove would be on you.Today, I can connect anywhere if the pipe isn't an electrode. If Tony Two Times follows along behind me in three years, and finds my water bonding conductor landed a mile from the water entrance, then it would tickle me to discover that he decided that I had committed a code violation and assumed that it was an electrode; and went to all the trouble you are suggesting to go through over this nonsense.
I imagine I would fly these guys out to the job site to settle the debate, if the customer would rather pay for that than use a shovel.And short of digging it up - how would you prove it?
Doubt it would be definitive either... "yep - theres a pipe about there...." - "What kind?" "Uh - I don't know..." (Had a simular experiance trying to locate conduits in slab on a hi-rise. You may have people more local though.I imagine I would fly these guys out to the job site to settle the debate, if the customer would rather pay for that than use a shovel.![]()
But why should the customer pay? He was under the understanding he was paying for a job done to code... If (you're) not hitting every available electrode then you are not meeting the code - and if unwilling to confirm if you are or not - What happens then?..
I would err on the side of caution and assume it to be. As yes - I would have a very hard time proving to an inspector locally that it is not one. Not even hack plumbers would have used PVC for a main here previously. And doubtfull a HO is gonna tear out that much concrete - Typical to be under-slab/foundation and out to a meter on the other side of a city sidewalk at 24"It seems your opinion is if it looks to you at all like an electrode it is an electrode and must be used.
My opinion is, if it cannot, or will not be proved to be an electrode it is not an electrode and cannot be used as one.
Very simple, you assume it is, I assume it is not.
I didn't change the rules - I applied them slightly differently, I can do it at whim - I'm on my way to being an Inspector already....Still have no idea at all why your rules changed from my pool example to the OPs situation. Glad you are not an inspector, changing the rules day to day. :grin:
If I read correctly (even though I don't agree with this), you must use 250.66 for bonding to the metal water piping regardless of it's being a grounded electrode or not.
250.52 for an electrode and 250.104 for "metal water piping" both reference 250.66 and both require the bonding to take place if the pipe is present.
Doing a 200 amp heavy up, installing two ground rods for it, connecting with #4 bare. Would this suffice, if the main water shut off was all the way at the other end of the house, and not accesible from the panel without tearing the house up? E/M.
Everyone seems to agree about bonding within 5ft if 10ft of more is in contact with the earth.
The confusion is in the multiple opinions... Is it an electrode or not - if so prove it!?!I may have missed something inn this lengthy discussion. But, I don't see why all the confusion.
Not quite.... Where I and a few other disagree - is the calling of an unknown pipe an electrode. Close your eyes when you walk by it.... Sure you can't see underground - but since the code doesn't say to find out - some feel happy to just ignore the possible presence of it...Using the water piping system as a ground is not required but permissable (250.52(A)(1). Where present it is required to be bonded, however 250.104(A). With the rods in place, the grounding is taken care of.
Is a pig a horse? Both are animals... If it is an electrode - it needs to be an electrode. IMO it is safer putting a saddle on a pig - even if you just confused it for a horse. But not putting a saddle on the horse is a code violation...Though, the rest of the metal systems in the house are left to be bonded. Again, I may have missed something already covered here, but are we confusing the difference between bonding and grounding?