Tulsa Electrician
Senior Member
- Location
- Tulsa
- Occupation
- Electrician
I can agree with that.But my real point wasn't that it isn't an issue, but rather that it shouldn't be.
Sometimes I don't understand correctly. Thanks
I can agree with that.But my real point wasn't that it isn't an issue, but rather that it shouldn't be.
But as we are all aware, sometimes painfully so, what is and what should be are frequently at odds.If the manufacturer wants to instruct you to use fuses only, it should say "Fuse Only" on the nameplate.
Although fuses open faster than CB's its still the job of the OL's to protect the motor.I would think that, generally speaking, fuses open more quickly for motor protection.
Yep.Although fuses open faster than CB's its still the job of the OL's to protect the motor.
Sort of doesn't make too much sense on this plate. Compressor has RLA of 19 and apparently two fans with FLA of .6 amps. Normally that should give you a MCA of about 25 amps but plate says MCA of 42. Don't know why the difference for fuse vs breaker but either is in about the range I would expect for a compressor with RLA of 19. If variable speed compressor, reality says you can get by easily with 35 and maybe even 30 amp OCPD's.
Yeah, I wasn't sure about where the additional 17A of load would be coming from. Maybe a large electric resistance defrost heater?Sort of doesn't make too much sense on this plate. Compressor has RLA of 19 and apparently two fans with FLA of .6 amps. Normally that should give you a MCA of about 25 amps but plate says MCA of 42.
If so then that load should be listed on the nameplate though.Yeah, I wasn't sure about where the additional 17A of load would be coming from. Maybe a large electric resistance defrost heater?
Cheers, Wayne
Doubtful if would be in the indoor unit and could be any of a number of power ratings.If so then that load should be listed on the nameplate though.
And from experience, installer will put it on a 50A breaker.
I think we are talking about the label in post 84, the nameplate for an outdoor unit. Probably a mini-split that powers an indoor air handler that has minimal load of a blower and some controls. If there were significant heating elements in the indoor unit it probably more of a conventional split unit and the indoor section is supplied by it's own circuit.Doubtful if would be in the indoor unit and could be any of a number of power ratings.
That outdoor unit apparently supports up to 8 indoor units. So if the power to the indoor units comes from the outdoor unit, maybe it is just a 2.1A allowance for each possible indoor unit.Yeah, I wasn't sure about where the additional 17A of load would be coming from.
I wondered what the "W(output)" with a value of 74+74 is all about. But still makes no sense other than maybe that is output watts of apparently two outdoor blowers?That outdoor unit apparently supports up to 8 indoor units. So if the power to the indoor units comes from the outdoor unit, maybe it is just a 2.1A allowance for each possible indoor unit.
Cheers, Wayne
Am I correct to assume that, unlike ducted heat pump systems, mini-splits do not incorporate a resistance heating option? I know that my MIL's Panasonic system just runs out of heating capacity both at low outdoor temps and when low on refrigerant.I wondered what the "W(output)" with a value of 74+74 is all about. But still makes no sense other than maybe that is output watts of apparently two outdoor blowers?
From what I seen from mini-splits 2.1 amps at 208-240 volts would be a pretty significant indoor blower. All other indoor unit load is almost negligible.
To the best of my knowledge, that is the case. Undoubtedly, someone out there offers this as an option, but it isn't usual, in my experience.Am I correct to assume that, unlike ducted heat pump systems, mini-splits do not incorporate a resistance heating option? I know that my MIL's Panasonic system just runs out of heating capacity both at low outdoor temps and when low on refrigerant.