Cshmid: Fair enough. There are a myriad of things to look for behind a panelboard cover. The short list would look like this:
(1) Before the cover comes off - are the breakers labeled? Are there openings in the panel cover? Are all of the cover plate screws in place, and are they the blunt-ended screw supplied by the manufacturer or are they sharp-pointed sheet metal screws installed by the Sparky or happy homeowner? Is there the required service clearance around the panel? Is it installed at a code-compliant height? Is it installed the proper distance from propane tanks? Is it located too close to a gas appliance vent? Etc., etc., ad infinitum . . .
Are codes retroactive?? Was it code at the time of the install?? Just wondering.
(2) Are any of the breakers overheating - using an infrared thermometer for measurements.
define overheating
(3) Are there any damaged breakers?
(4) Are there any scorch marks?
(5) Is the panel full of crap like mice nesting material, dead mice, paint, texture, et al.?
Would that be detrimental to the integrity of the installation? Nothing a shop vac wouldn't fix.
(6) Are the conductors sized properly for the breakers to which they are attached?
See #11
(7) Are all of the conductors connected to the panel where they enter with NM clamps?
(8) Is there the proper amount of cable insulation extended within the panel?
how much is proper?
(9) Are any of the conductors damaged?
(10) If aluminum, are the conductors attached to breakers listed and labeled for aluminum? Are the bare ends coated with anti-oxidant paste?
Are there breakers out there listed for copper only?
(11) Are any of the breakers being used to protect more than one circuit? If so, are the breakers listed and labeled for this application? Are they properly sized according to the circuits they protect?
Without tracing circuits, how would you know if the breaker was properly sized? Also, if this is piped, how do you know the wire size is consistent with the breaker size for the entire run? Do you go around opening up J-boxes and/or walls if in cable? My guess would be NO, so how can you put either on an inspection report when it is based on ASSUMPTION?? I've seen "Joe Homeowner" run #14 cuz it's cheaper, but then runs #10 from that last box back to the 30A breaker he had layin' around in the panel.
(12) How many conductors are inserted below each lug in the common and ground bus bars?
So let's say you have multiple neutrals under one screw......is it REALLY a selling point, and what do you put in your inspection report regarding this??
(13) If this is a subpanel, are the commons and ground segregated?
(14) Is this a POS panelboard like a Federal Pacific Electric Stab Lok or Zinsco. You know the ones I mean, arc welders in a can?
(15) Are breaker handle bridges in place where required?
MWBC's would be one instance, if you can identify them properly. Handle ties or 2-pole breakers were not always used on these. Is it a violation if it was not code at the time of the installation? I don't believe codes are retroactive.
(16) Are all of the breakers in the panel of the brand or type allowed for installation in the panel?
What information is this based upon, or is it just an ASSUMPTION if the breaker and panel brands are different?
(17) Are any of the breakers on a UL or manufacturer recall list?
Are you pulling breakers to check date codes? How is this determined?
(18) Is the enclosure rusted? If so, what is the origin of the moisture?
If i was attached directly to the foundation wall for 40+ years, i'd be a little rusty too.
(19) Are there any devices in the panel that do not belong, i.e. doorbell transformers, whole house surge protectors, et al.?
OMG.....TVSS devices don't belong in a panel?
I could go on, bu these are what come to mind right now. Gotta run . . . the brisket needs basting . . .