How did I fix it??

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I've been waiting for someone to ask...was the rest of the building doing OK while the "B" phase was acting up, in this one apt?

That could bring us a little closer to the problem.
 
electricalperson said:
you should invest in a pair of insulated gloves with leather protectors. i keep mine right in the glove box of the van
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And wheres the face shield for the meter, all else is mute ....:rolleyes:
 
electricalperson said:
the fluke 62 is a really nice little infared thermometer. i use it a lot. flukes power quality book and electrical/electronic troubleshooting explains how to use it. its pretty simple to do
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Here's a link to the mini 62:

http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+62.htm


Now to back up a couple of steps, you have to agree, temperature measurement goes hand in hand with electrical work. Instead of saying,..."Why, I'm not a nurse?" You could of just asked why you really need one, especially if you do service work:wink:

There's plenty of people here willing to help you out, but you have to ask specifics first:smile:
 
electricalperson said:
you should invest in a pair of insulated gloves with leather protectors. i keep mine right in the glove box of the van
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You keep your gloves in the glove box? A novel idea indeed.
 
dmanda24 said:
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and changing a light switch on a live circuit is not the same as disconnecting live service wires, 20 amp breaker and 200 amp main disconnect protecting the wires, big diference.
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I actually don't see a difference there....and neither will that 20A CB.
 
electricalperson said:
a high tempature reading usually 50 and above degrees usually indicates a loose connection. 20 or so degrees usually indicates a heavy load. pretty basic but works for me
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Chris, you know you can change the readings to Farenheit by the switch in the battery compartment right under the trigger correct?
 
And the cure now needs to be seen in infra-red for the understanding ?

No, I'm sorry, that is not my repratua, no thats a totally wrong avenue of thought. I can't believe I saw that... Cause I ain't got one neither... LOL
The Volt meter is dead... SADNESS...
 
cadpoint said:
And the cure now needs to be seen in infra-red for the understanding ?

No, I'm sorry, that is not my repratua, no thats a totally wrong avenue of thought. I can't believe I saw that... Cause I ain't got one neither... LOL
The Volt meter is dead... SADNESS...
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a voltmeter can help troubleshoot loose connections using fop method aswell i was just talking about the thermometer
 
I now temperature is important I don't have a fluke temperature meter and if I did I could not have taken measuraments on the main breaker since I had no access to it. The nurse thing was just sarcastic humor
 
just to clarify on my posts. the 20 and 50 degree measurement are above ambient tempature. example 90 degrees in room tempature reading of 150 on breaker or lug etc
150-90 = 60 degrees above ambient and that tells me loose connection
 
celtic said:
I actually don't see a difference there....and neither will that 20A CB.
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a short to ground creates just as spark since it takes only 20 amps for the breaker to open, a short to ground in the feeders takes 200 amps to open, haven't seen it but i'm sure it will be more than a spark.
 
electricalperson said:
a high tempature reading usually 50 and above degrees usually indicates a loose connection. 20 or so degrees usually indicates a heavy load. pretty basic but works for me
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usually I take a reading of the wall to get a feel for the ambient temp in the room. Then I go to to the breaker etc.. if the wall is 74(f) the panel I expect to be 74-80(F) any thing over that I am checking everything.

Celtic 20a breaker could have amp reading. 200a main off has 0amps. 20 on is more dangerous than 200 off. yes power is on still but one may have a small load (night light)
 
dmanda24 said:
a short to ground creates just as spark since it takes only 20 amps for the breaker to open, a short to ground in the feeders takes 200 amps to open, haven't seen it but i'm sure it will be more than a spark.
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the way a CB operates in a short circuit condition is a little more complicated than the actual ampacity of the breaker. im sure some of the experts will explain how they actually work.
 
dmanda24 said:
it was a really old panel with really big breakers
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I overheard my wife on the speakerphone a few years ago making a garage appointment for her car. The mechanic asked her what kind of car it was, and her response was "green". :grin:
 
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