How do you read a metric ruler?

[PetrosA]

Is strength an issue here in US?

Drywall does not really add any strength to a structural wall - it is just a finish covering and maybe fire rated covering.

Look at many metal stud walls that have practically no strength at all - until the drywall is installed - but that doesn't add enough strength to make it a structural, load bearing wall.

True, it doesn't add strength to the structure itself, but it can help keep the studs from bowing and pulling out (in extreme cases) and ultimately adds a stability factor to the structure (sheathing is obviously better at this than drywall but both play a role...). That's why most US stick construction wants to see the drywall mounted horizontally and staggered to span as many studs as possible with seams crossing bays horizontally in four foot increments off the floor. I think it also played a role in why we moved to the 16" O.C. standard versus the 19 3/8" O.C. that was more common long ago. The drywall I've seen in Europe is mounted vertically and spans either three or four studs at most, with all the seams on studs (no horizontal seams) unless the space is very high.

 

[Besoeker]

Most of the drywall I've seen in Europe is installed vertically instead of horizontally (the framing isn't structural, so strength isn't an issue). with 120cm drywall, you could have studs every 40 or 60 cm on center.

Not many timber framed houses here.

 

[gadfly56]

Not many timber framed houses here.

What, wattle and daub? :lol:

 

[Besoeker]

What, wattle and daub? :lol:

Yea....we've upgraded from Wigwams....

 

[plumb bob]

Totally off topic, but I've always wondered about this: In the U.S., many in the construction trades and probably every auto mechanic keeps two sets of socket wrenches, standard and metric. Both the standard and metric sockets are manufactuerd in 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch and 1/2inch drive. Is this consistant in countries that are metric system users? Or do they have 6mm, 10mm, and 13mm drive ratchet wrenches? Always wondered! :ashamed1:

 

[jxofaltrds]

Totally off topic, but I've always wondered about this: In the U.S., many in the construction trades and probably every auto mechanic keeps two sets of socket wrenches, standard and metric. Both the standard and metric sockets are manufactuerd in 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch and 1/2inch drive. Is this consistant in countries that are metric system users? Or do they have 6mm, 10mm, and 13mm drive ratchet wrenches? Always wondered! :ashamed1:

Off topic. What is a plumb bob?

 

[John120/240]

Off topic. What is a plumb bob?

Plumb Bob is a local plumber named Robert Plumb. Seriously it is a brass cylinder machined to a

point. Tie a string to the top end. I use one to locate martini lights over penusila. There are other

uses too.

 

[John120/240]

Off topic. What is a plumb bob?

Just noticed that there is a member named Plumb Bob

 

[K8MHZ]

Off topic. What is a plumb bob?

A bob we have when apples are out of season.

 

[Besoeker]

Plumb Bob is a local plumber named Robert Plumb. Seriously it is a brass cylinder machined to a

point. Tie a string to the top end. I use one to locate martini lights over penusila. There are other

uses too.

Gives a vertical line.

 

[Besoeker]

Totally off topic, but I've always wondered about this: In the U.S., many in the construction trades and probably every auto mechanic keeps two sets of socket wrenches, standard and metric. Both the standard and metric sockets are manufactuerd in 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch and 1/2inch drive. Is this consistant in countries that are metric system users? Or do they have 6mm, 10mm, and 13mm drive ratchet wrenches? Always wondered! :ashamed1:

I have two socket sets, both standard (i.e. metric...)
One I bought here fairly recently and one I bought overseas (South Africa). Both have 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch square drives.
I think it's the common standard - I don't recall ever having a problem with a mismatch.

 

[kwired]

True, it doesn't add strength to the structure itself, but it can help keep the studs from bowing and pulling out (in extreme cases) and ultimately adds a stability factor to the structure (sheathing is obviously better at this than drywall but both play a role...). That's why most US stick construction wants to see the drywall mounted horizontally and staggered to span as many studs as possible with seams crossing bays horizontally in four foot increments off the floor. I think it also played a role in why we moved to the 16" O.C. standard versus the 19 3/8" O.C. that was more common long ago. The drywall I've seen in Europe is mounted vertically and spans either three or four studs at most, with all the seams on studs (no horizontal seams) unless the space is very high.

Although it may add some structure stability, I find it is easier to finish one horizontal seam 4 feet from the floor than to finish several vertical seams from floor to ceiling. The corners need finished no matter what so disrgard them for this logic.

 

[iceworm]

Although it may add some structure stability, I find it is easier to finish one horizontal seam 4 feet from the floor than to finish several vertical seams from floor to ceiling. The corners need finished no matter what so disrgard them for this logic.

That's the way my dad did it - horizontal application, staggered verticals. So that is the way I did it. Until I had a 9 foot ceiling and the supplier asked if I wanted 9 foot (x 4') or 54" (x8') instead of the norm (4' x 8'). Brain stall, recalculate - "Get right back with you." That took about 10 seconds to figure.

Mount the rock vertical and all the joints are tapered edges. Mount the rock horizontal - butt joints every where. I really don't like taping butt joints. Of course I am just a DIY - If I was any good at taping I probably wouldn't mind butt joints.

Everything I've done since that day of revelation is planned to minimize butt joints, minimize all joints. If it costs (wastes) a sheet to get rid of one butt joint, I'll do it and feel good.

I do like building. I do like it to work well and look good when I get done. And sometimes it does.

ice

 

[kwired]

That's the way my dad did it - horizontal application, staggered verticals. So that is the way I did it. Until I had a 9 foot ceiling and the supplier asked if I wanted 9 foot (x 4') or 54" (x8') instead of the norm (4' x 8'). Brain stall, recalculate - "Get right back with you." That took about 10 seconds to figure.

Mount the rock vertical and all the joints are tapered edges. Mount the rock horizontal - butt joints every where. I really don't like taping butt joints. Of course I am just a DIY - If I was any good at taping I probably wouldn't mind butt joints.

Everything I've done since that day of revelation is planned to minimize butt joints, minimize all joints. If it costs (wastes) a sheet to get rid of one butt joint, I'll do it and feel good.

I do like building. I do like it to work well and look good when I get done. And sometimes it does.

ice

Yes I forgot, butt joints need consideration too. If you use 12 foot long sheets this usually doesn't present too many butt joints in a typical dwelling application. There are usually doors and windows that minimize the need for butt joints in larger rooms. Ceilings unfortunately are where there is usually more butt joints if a larger room, I hate finishing ceilings. I could handle being a drywall finisher if I never had to do ceilings. I don't even care for hanging luminaires on ceilings in many cases, unless they are lay-in troffers then they are not so bad.

 

[iceworm]

... I hate finishing ceilings. I could handle being a drywall finisher if I never had to do ceilings. ....

I couldn't. I can't even pick up 12 foot sheets. I bought a jack just to handle the 8 foot sheets on the ceiling. But then I do tend to spend an obscene amount of money of tools. For the ceilings I bought a BluePoint automatic taper (its a shotgun type, not a banjo), flatboxes, corner tools. Love them corner tools - square even and flat. Even so, there is no way I could ever do a flat ceiling and not have every butt joint show.

Its a bummer being a wimp - but I do love buying tools:happyyes:

ice

 

[ritelec]

Love them corner tools -

me too.

there is no way I could ever do a flat ceiling and not have every butt joint show.

Wide feather..........pain in the ars but.

Lately I've been doing butt (and blow out patches) with no tape or mesh. Mix plaster of paris in the spackle. Sets quick so do a section and a time and you have to work quick.
No bumps........and from what I've been seeing no cracks.....(knocking on wood.so far so good).

Just to add, I've also experimented wit making a taper on the butt end .........so far ther plaster paris/spackle mix seams the way......I'll let you know if it does crack........but it has been many yrs. so..???

 

[iceworm]

... Lately I've been doing butt (and blow out patches) with no tape or mesh. Mix plaster of paris in the spackle. ...

Silverset 90 (but not in the shotgun). Mixed with warm water it starts to kick in 20 - 30 mins. Lets me sand and recoat the same day. Lord knows I do a lot of sanding

Never heard of cracks holding without some type of tape/mesh/screen. Good luck with that.

ice

 

[iceworm]

...Just to add, I've also experimented wit making a taper on the butt end ...

How do you do that? Shave off the paper to taper the butt end?. If you do that, the screws (or nails for that matter) won't hold. They fasteners have to depress the paper and not tear it.

Come on. Give it up and enlighten us.

ice

 

[kwired]

How do you do that? Shave off the paper to taper the butt end?. If you do that, the screws (or nails for that matter) won't hold. They fasteners have to depress the paper and not tear it.

Come on. Give it up and enlighten us.

ice

I suppose you could use adhesive as primary fastening method, nails/screws are only dependent fastening for holding long enough for adhesive to set. Just an thought. I have seen some guys that put only one screw at each edge of sheet and one about right in center, (3 screws per framing member across the sheet) rest of fastening is done by adhesive they put on the studs, before hanging the sheet.

 

[ritelec]

Yes the screw through the paper without ripping holds the rock.

It was anal but worked. Just alittle taper .....cut the tape thinner......???


I don't know man.

I just looked outside my basement room at the feathered ceiling (after learning it "really needed to be feathered so after painting I sanded an re feather)..........it looks ok. (I think a new repaint would make it look good, but not today).
I looked in the other room with the really feathered ceiling (before paint) it looks good.

I walked up stairs to the plaster/compound mix (no tape) 7 yrs later.looks good.

Back in the other room.......looked at the taper.......8 yrs. later.looks good.

???


I don't know..........just a suggestion is all.