n1ist
Senior Member
- Location
- Massachusetts
- Occupation
- Principal Electrical Engineer
What are the L1-N and L2-N voltages? Do you have a 240v split phase supply or two legs of a 208Y 3 phase?
I really think it comes back to this issue. The dimmable LEDs (even if not on dimmers) are reacting to something in the system, maybe not even in this house. My first suspicion though would be modern new appliances with inverter drives in them causing harmonic distortion or EMI/RFI that the LEDs are reacting to.LED lights require a driver to provide the constant current that the LED junctions require. These drivers do a fantastic job of isolating the light output from voltage variations...with the downside that this makes the LED not dimmable.
Most modern LED lights have an additional circuit to detect dimming and adjust the LED driver current.
This makes different brands of LED sensitive to different electrical noises, anything that triggers the dimming circuitry.
I'm wondering if there is some load that is causing current spikes right near the AC zero cross, confusing the power factor measurement and messing with the LED dimming.
Jon
I thought that's what IR is for.Ditto about dimming the lights.
The only dimming I have are on outside lights that are practically never on, but capable of bright so I can see a target at night.
By ECO-Light bulbs do you mean LED? And By GE do you mean incandescent?Eco-light bulbs remain to flicker while GE bulbs seem to not flicker.
I assume they are both brands of LED bulbs.By ECO-Light bulbs do you mean LED? And By GE do you mean incandescent?
LED bulbs, ECO-Light is the brand. Generally the cheaper bulk packs you can buy.By ECO-Light bulbs do you mean LED? And By GE do you mean incandescent?
Still have not heard back from the utility company after they had installed their measuring device onto the meter. That was a couple of weeks ago now. They are not returning phone calls either.I agree with others that the neutral current from the service needs to be measured with the main breaker off.
If that doesn't show significant current, then if you can do it put a clamp-meter around all service conductors (L1, L2, N) and see what you get. Even with a 208/120V service that current measurement should be quite small.
No. Because there is still an issue with other equipment within the house.So if they just switch to the better GE LED bulbs the issue would be solved?
Other than the fridge?No. Because there is still an issue with other equipment within the house.
Some may argue that two homes on one pot is better than 6 homes sharing pot, but I don’t smoke!It’s a residential single family. The utility company had to 6 people on a transformer when he moved in, and then changed it to 2 homes on one pot.
No dimmers necessary. Basic LED bulb can look like a regulated power supply, trying to maintain light output through variations in input voltage. In order to override that, dimmable bulbs are designed (in different ways) to react to abnormal (low voltage, partial phase conduction, etc/) input by reducing the light output. If the voltage waveform is sufficiently noisy or non-sinusoidal it can fool the bulb into reducing output.UPDATE REPORT.
Current on the neutral remains higher than required to balance the line sets. Eco-light bulbs remain to flicker while GE bulbs seem to not flicker. The refrigerator shut off randomly in the morning with no other major loads running (This apparently has been a problem as well. All new appliances.)
Jraef - No dimmers are in the house.
Yep, that's what I meant.No dimmers necessary. Basic LED bulb can look like a regulated power supply, trying to maintain light output through variations in input voltage. In order to override that, dimmable bulbs are designed (in different ways) to react to abnormal (low voltage, partial phase conduction, etc/) input by reducing the light output. If the voltage waveform is sufficiently noisy or non-sinusoidal it can fool the bulb into reducing output.
And the relates to crosses Neutrals, how?