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Negative Pf residential Home

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
If you have a L/N reversal it would show up on any given 120V receptacle with one of those plug in testers on the line that is reversed. Simple point to test would be to set up a temp receptacle at the panel, and test with your known correctly wired receptacle. If one of the lines is reversed it would be evident there.

If you have amperage back feeding on neutral you should be able to read that with mains turned off as reading from N/G.

If the issue presents specifically at a specific time of day you may have a utility issue (substation switching etc) or loads from another upstream customer that comes on at a specific time.

where about in PA? not too far from PA.
Tested all of the receptacles, and all tested correctly.
The house around Milford PA.
 

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
UPDATE:

Utility company came out. They almost called it quits, until they pulled meters from the neighbors and discovered that neutral current increased at my coworkers house. They are going to isolate his house and see if anything changes. There was a thought that his house a better ground established than the one at the pole, or (as I had pointed out to my coworker) they think that there is an issue using a common neutral being fed from a source other than the transformer feeding the house.

Until next time.
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
UPDATE:

Utility company came out. They almost called it quits, until they pulled meters from the neighbors and discovered that neutral current increased at my coworkers house. They are going to isolate his house and see if anything changes. There was a thought that his house a better ground established than the one at the pole, or (as I had pointed out to my coworker) they think that there is an issue using a common neutral being fed from a source other than the transformer feeding the house.

Until next time.
Getting closer but the 'better ground' has me scratching my head as well as '...a source other than...'.
 

rich000

Senior Member
I didn’t read all 6 pages. Any chance this house has a pool with a variable speed pump? That will cause LED light flickering. Or maybe the HVAC has a variable speed fan or compressor?
 

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
Getting closer but the 'better ground' has me scratching my head as well as '...a source other than...'.
better ground - they said #1 they have issues with people stealing the utility ground wires, #2 the house may be providing a better ground through the 400ft well.
a source other than - I didn't like this when I saw it, but I had to assume the utility company had some other understanding of their system. Who am I but a little electrician turned electrical engineer.
 

jim dungar

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
PE (Retired) - Power Systems
Getting closer but the 'better ground' has me scratching my head as well as '...a source other than...'.
Again industry slang, though this time the POCO's.
Utilities use the term ground and neutral slightly different than an electrician might. They almost never use grounded and grounding.

Yes it is possible that the customer's ground electrode system, like their well casing, is a better ground than the POCO normal multi-grounded neutral for various reasons.
 

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
UPDATE:
POCO said by their standards, the home should be capable of handling 10A incoming on the neutral. The owner should check every neutral and ground connection. The only issue they noticed on their end was something called amperage mirroring (i'm not familiar with that term). He said the neutral should show more currant than what you are drawing. Is Kirchoff's Law wrong?

He also advised the homeowner to have check all of the neutral if they are connected with a hot leg. An electrician said the same thing once, and I have told the guy multiple times, if the neutral is connected to the hot he would either have a fault or a fire... am i wrong?
 

tortuga

Code Historian
Location
Oregon
Occupation
Electrical Design
Something is not adding up, is this a brand new house? (not newly renovated)
Can we get some photos of the service? Perhaps single line diagram showing wire sizes and the distances.
I be interested to see what FredB finds you should send him a PM and get him to drive down there.
 

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
Also... they said to replace any GFCI breakers. (probable AFCI and AFCI/GFCI combos as well). Any one having issues those where they have current on the neutrals because of it?
 

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
Something is not adding up, is this a brand new house? (not newly renovated)
Can we get some photos of the service? Perhaps single line diagram showing wire sizes and the distances.
I be interested to see what FredB finds you should send him a PM and get him to drive down there.
Brandy new. I'll see what I can do about pictures for you.
 

jim dungar

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
PE (Retired) - Power Systems
UPDATE:
POCO said by their standards, the home should be capable of handling 10A incoming on the neutral. The owner should check every neutral and ground connection. The only issue they noticed on their end was something called amperage mirroring (i'm not familiar with that term). He said the neutral should show more currant than what you are drawing. Is Kirchoff's Law wrong?

He also advised the homeowner to have check all of the neutral if they are connected with a hot leg. An electrician said the same thing once, and I have told the guy multiple times, if the neutral is connected to the hot he would either have a fault or a fire... am i wrong?
It is not unusual for utility lineman to not understand house wiring, just like electricians don't know power grids.

The additional service neutral current may actually be coming from a neighbor via a common ground connection.

You are correct a Line-Neutral connection is called a fault.
 

Joethemechanic

Senior Member
Location
Hazleton Pa
Occupation
Electro-Mechanical Technician. Industrial machinery
Wait,,, So you are saying that with the main breaker open, you have current on the service neutral? And that 10 amps is acceptable? And this is because the well casing is a very low impedance ground?

What happens when you amp clamp the EGC going to the well casing?
 

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
Wait,,, So you are saying that with the main breaker open, you have current on the service neutral? And that 10 amps is acceptable? And this is because the well casing is a very low impedance ground?

What happens when you amp clamp the EGC going to the well casing?
Main breaker open, current on the neutral, not because of low impedance on the ground... the last bit the POCO theorized.

Clamping on the EGC shows some current as it is bonded with the house neutral.
 

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
**Update**
Utility company came out, new transformer, installed ground rod at pole, no change of electrical situation at the house. Utility company no longer responds to home owner.

Owner bought a cheaper monitoring system to see many of the breakers in real time. The refrigerator drops out randomly for long enough to ruin the food within, but it will come back on. the refrigerator was new, replaced, and parts have been replaced with no fix.

Subpanel circuit breaker was turned off, some how the refrigerator circuit was still drawing a small amount of current while all of the others were off. Suggestions have been made about neutrals tied together somewhere, but no neutrals in the subpanel are tied together.

Owner is going to install our logger system to monitor everything for a week or so.
 

jim dungar

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Wisconsin
Occupation
PE (Retired) - Power Systems
**Update**
Utility company came out, new transformer, installed ground rod at pole, no change of electrical situation at the house. Utility company no longer responds to home owner.

Owner bought a cheaper monitoring system to see many of the breakers in real time. The refrigerator drops out randomly for long enough to ruin the food within, but it will come back on. the refrigerator was new, replaced, and parts have been replaced with no fix.

Subpanel circuit breaker was turned off, some how the refrigerator circuit was still drawing a small amount of current while all of the others were off. Suggestions have been made about neutrals tied together somewhere, but no neutrals in the subpanel are tied together.

Owner is going to install our logger system to monitor everything for a week or so.
In my refrigerator, the food stays fresh for hours without power, assuming door stays closed.
Are you saying the breaker, feeding their fridge, does not pass current for multiple hours and then decides to start working correctly?

Where are you making measurements, that allow you to know the fridge is drawing current even though its feeder breaker is off? Have you unplugged the fridge and then made the same measurements?
 

tortuga

Code Historian
Location
Oregon
Occupation
Electrical Design
@Rock86 Crazy this is still going on, I don't think there is much else we can help with from here, it seems like were just passing on DIY advice unless you yourself are actually turning tools and running tests on this house?

where about in PA? not too far from PA.
I say get @Fred B to check the place out, seems like he is not far from there?
He is a respected and practicing master electrician on here.
 

Rock86

Senior Member
Location
new york
Occupation
Electrical Engineer / Electrician
In my refrigerator, the food stays fresh for hours without power, assuming door stays closed.
Are you saying the breaker, feeding their fridge, does not pass current for multiple hours and then decides to start working correctly?

Where are you making measurements, that allow you to know the fridge is drawing current even though its feeder breaker is off? Have you unplugged the fridge and then made the same measurements?
I would have thought the same thing. I even told him that as long as the doors are closed, the food should stay fresh, but he says that even with the doors closed the temperature gets warm enough within a short time span.

This guy is a little wild. He has ammeters clamped on all over the place. around the mains, around the branch breakers, around the ground rod... if current can flow on it, hes clamped a meter around it. hahaha.

Crazy this is still going on, I don't think there is much else we can help with from here, it seems like were just passing on DIY advice unless you yourself are actually turning tools and running tests on this house?
I get my hands in it when I can. I think the guy is up to 7 or 8 different electricians at his house poking around. I had phoned a good retired electrician recently to come help as well. Even he was stumped.

I'll shoot a private message to Fred... thanks for the tip. The data just doesn't make sense. I haven't seen a situation like this before.
 

Fred B

Senior Member
Location
Upstate, NY
Occupation
Electrician
Negative power factor seems to mean power flowing in the reverse direction.

Unless there is something which can supply power from the house to the grid any time of day, I'd suggest instrumentation error.

Jon
If using clamp on CT for logging and they are connected backwards it will give a negative. They usually are current direction sensitive. Big issue for net metering CT with solar.
 
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