So obviously I think I'm right and my lead is wrong.

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Some mansions have massively high ceilings, I think they are saying if the ceiling is real high, you can have a recep above 8' of the rim

Edit:. Oh you are interpreting vertical to be up and down from the rim?
 
BTW, a duplex receptacle could be installed in the mirror with a chrome plate if aesthetics is what they're worried about.
That's right we do it all the time with a mirror cover. But it has to be agreed upon beforehand as the mirror installer may charge for cutting the hole.
 
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"He said don't worry the inspector will pass it"
Man that irks me to no end. If you brought your issue to me at work you would receive a different ansawer for sure. I say let find out before we waste a lot of time doing the wrong thing. So keep that approach in mine as you mentor others.
So good for you. Why put the inspector in a bad position.
 
Looking at the real world practicality of needing two receptacles at a double vanity. I do not want to be shaving (if I used an electric shaver) while someone else (especially my wife) was using an electrical apparatus next to me. I would wait until I could have the vanity to myself.
 
That was why GFCI's were required way back in like 1970ish.


Yup and the cord on a blow dryer is still at least 6' long so 3' won't keep it out of the tub.

You know, with fiberglass tubs and PEX pipe what is the point of GFCI?

Hair dryers typically don't have grounds.

For a GFCI to trip you need current taking an alternate path back to the source and there is no longer an alternate path because nothing is conductive and nothing is bonded.

You may trip the breaker if the water causes too much current between neutral and hot, but the GFCI function is pretty much pointless, and a 20 amp breaker with no other loads is massive.
 
Some mansions have massively high ceilings, I think they are saying if the ceiling is real high, you can have a recep above 8' of the rim

Edit:. Oh you are interpreting vertical to be up and down from the rim?
That is what I read it to say. Three feet horizontally and eight feet either up or down from that level.
 
You know, with fiberglass tubs and PEX pipe what is the point of GFCI?

Hair dryers typically don't have grounds.

For a GFCI to trip you need current taking an alternate path back to the source and there is no longer an alternate path because nothing is conductive and nothing is bonded.

You may trip the breaker if the water causes too much current between neutral and hot, but the GFCI function is pretty much pointless, and a 20 amp breaker with no other loads is massive.
I had someone one time that was complaining about strange feelings in lower legs while using the shower. Was non metallic tub, non metallic drain pipe at the tub, but metal drain fitting in the tub. Metallic water supply piping though. First thought was neutral to ground voltage, though it is hard to completely eliminate this and it was at levels you commonly find.

When I first measured for voltages in the tub area I got nothing though. I actually gave up on first visit but when came back I thought of turning water on and then measuring for voltages. Nothing right away but after maybe 15 -20 seconds volts from water supply to metal drain fitting increased. My conclusion was even though non metallic drain pipe at the tub, there was older metallic drain piping that ultimately was what left the house. Mineral content in water was enough to conduct enough here to be a problem. Wasn't nothing extreme, in fact the woman that was complaining about this being a problem for her said it did not bother her husband when he used the shower. My fix was a bonding jumper between metal drain fitting and water supply piping.

Why the need for GFCI, I think is still good idea in a bathroom where you are potentially immersed in water and more subject to being a possible current path to something even if not expected. We may be overkill to some extent in kitchens, I think that six feet from the sink like it once was is probably sufficient.
 
I had someone one time that was complaining about strange feelings in lower legs while using the shower. Was non metallic tub, non metallic drain pipe at the tub, but metal drain fitting in the tub. Metallic water supply piping though. First thought was neutral to ground voltage, though it is hard to completely eliminate this and it was at levels you commonly find.

When I first measured for voltages in the tub area I got nothing though. I actually gave up on first visit but when came back I thought of turning water on and then measuring for voltages. Nothing right away but after maybe 15 -20 seconds volts from water supply to metal drain fitting increased. My conclusion was even though non metallic drain pipe at the tub, there was older metallic drain piping that ultimately was what left the house. Mineral content in water was enough to conduct enough here to be a problem. Wasn't nothing extreme, in fact the woman that was complaining about this being a problem for her said it did not bother her husband when he used the shower. My fix was a bonding jumper between metal drain fitting and water supply piping.

Why the need for GFCI, I think is still good idea in a bathroom where you are potentially immersed in water and more subject to being a possible current path to something even if not expected. We may be overkill to some extent in kitchens, I think that six feet from the sink like it once was is probably sufficient.
So if you dropped a toaster in the tub that was fiberglass, pvc drainage, pex water supply, would it trip the GFCI? I think not.
 
So if you dropped a toaster in the tub that was fiberglass, pvc drainage, pex water supply, would it trip the GFCI? I think not.
If more than 4-6 mA happens to flow then yes it is supposed to trip. If the item has an EGC in the supply cord, it probably will trip.

If totally isolated from any outside potential you shouldn't get shocked, but are you willing to try to prove it? If you miss something you might be dead.
 
A rent house we used to live in had an aluminum framed window in the shower over the tub. We learned very quickly not to touch the windowframe while we were standing ankle deep in water. I measured 120VAC with my DVM between the windowframe and the water spigot.
 
A rent house we used to live in had an aluminum framed window in the shower over the tub. We learned very quickly not to touch the windowframe while we were standing ankle deep in water. I measured 120VAC with my DVM between the windowframe and the water spigot.
Mounting screw possibly driven into concealed wiring?
 
If more than 4-6 mA happens to flow then yes it is supposed to trip. If the item has an EGC in the supply cord, it probably will trip.

If totally isolated from any outside potential you shouldn't get shocked, but are you willing to try to prove it? If you miss something you might be dead.
Toasters, hair dryers, electric shavers, basically everything I can think of that would be used as a bathroom product does not have an EGC in the supply cord. And you do have potential. It doesn't have to be outside potential to shock or electrocute you. You have over 20 Amps of potential between the ungrounded conductor and the grounded conductor. And the GFCI can't tell the difference if you are the load or if the appliance is the load. All it knows is (current out / current returned) is it balanced within 4-6 mA? Since there is no alternate path, it has to balance. You become the load and there is over 20 Amps to travel through your body and the GFCI is asleep at the wheel
 
Toasters, hair dryers, electric shavers, basically everything I can think of that would be used as a bathroom product does not have an EGC in the supply cord. And you do have potential. It doesn't have to be outside potential to shock or electrocute you. You have over 20 Amps of potential between the ungrounded conductor and the grounded conductor. And the GFCI can't tell the difference if you are the load or if the appliance is the load. All it knows is (current out / current returned) is it balanced within 4-6 mA? Since there is no alternate path, it has to balance. You become the load and there is over 20 Amps to travel through your body and the GFCI is asleep at the wheel
Before anyone corrects me I realize that potential is a function of voltage, not current
 
Toasters, hair dryers, electric shavers, basically everything I can think of that would be used as a bathroom product does not have an EGC in the supply cord. And you do have potential. It doesn't have to be outside potential to shock or electrocute you. You have over 20 Amps of potential between the ungrounded conductor and the grounded conductor. And the GFCI can't tell the difference if you are the load or if the appliance is the load. All it knows is (current out / current returned) is it balanced within 4-6 mA? Since there is no alternate path, it has to balance. You become the load and there is over 20 Amps to travel through your body and the GFCI is asleep at the wheel
If you immerse a two wire appliance into tub that is insulated from any other potential, the only path for current is between the two supply conductors. Assuming there is no other path you still should be fine sitting in that tub. That doesn't mean the water can't take on potential and should something of differing potential be within your reach current can flow through you if you touch that item.
Before anyone corrects me I realize that potential is a function of voltage, not current
Yes but the fact it is a 20 amp circuit is likely why you bring up 20 amps, but it is the voltage potential that is the problem and the current that can possibly kill you is only in the milliamp ranges. A 20 amp inverse time breaker can let maybe 80-100 amps through for short time when motor starting is occurring. A class A GFCI is designed to respond to 4-6 mA difference within maybe 25 milliseconds regardless of what any branch circuit rating may be.
 
You're over looking that the code says "outside edge of the basin". If you measure from the left side wall over to the right side, which would be the outside, of the right basin, then that would be over 3'. So a receptacle on the left side of a vanity like your drawing would not cover the requirement for a receptacle to be within 3' from the OUTSIDE of the right basin.
 
You're over looking that the code says "outside edge of the basin".
I would say you are confusing "outside edge" with "far edge." It doesn't say "far edge." The outside edge of the basin, is just that--on, say, a self-rimming sink (or a vessel sink), you have an outside edge of the basin, and an inside edge of a basin. If the basin were filled to overflowing, the water would climb up the inside edge, until it reaches the top of the rim, and then flow down the outside edge of the basin

So as usual for measuring distance, you pick the closest possible points on the "receptacle outlet" and on the "outside edge of the basin."

Cheers, Wayne
 
I would say you are confusing "outside edge" with "far edge." It doesn't say "far edge." The outside edge of the basin, is just that--on, say, a self-rimming sink (or a vessel sink), you have an outside edge of the basin, and an inside edge of a basin. If the basin were filled to overflowing, the water would climb up the inside edge, until it reaches the top of the rim, and then flow down the outside edge of the basin

So as usual for measuring distance, you pick the closest possible points on the "receptacle outlet" and on the "outside edge of the basin."

Cheers, Wayne
The left side of the left basin wouldn't be the "far" edge if the receptacle was on the left. I think the intent of the code is to not have a cord draped over a basin. So you either put a receptacle on each side or one in the center.
 
I think the intent of the code is to not have a cord draped over a basin. So you either put a receptacle on each side or one in the center.
So if the receptacles can be located only on each side, how does that reduced the likelihood that a cord would not be draped over the basins?

In my bath there is a receptacle on the outside wall of each basin with roughly 5 inches of counter space. There are no receptacles between the basins even though there is about 3 feet of counter space. I regularly have cords passing over or behind the basins.
 
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