Xenon Under cab lights toast your bread, time for LED Ribbon lighting

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Most of the "ribbon" LED lighting I have used does not have any fittings that allow for adapting from the "ribbon" to any other cable besides the cables they have listed for use with the ribbon. Their cables have ribbon connectors molded on the cable and there is no "adapter" fittings that would allow you to convert to a generic cable type.
 
kwired said:
Most of the "ribbon" LED lighting I have used does not have any fittings that allow for adapting from the "ribbon" to any other cable besides the cables they have listed for use with the ribbon. Their cables have ribbon connectors molded on the cable and there is no "adapter" fittings that would allow you to convert to a generic cable type.
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The only brand I use with fittings (not soldered) is WAC Invisiled Pro. They make a "low voltage wiring box" to transition from CL2 to the female end, but honestly, I just buy 6" leads and Ambiance joiners and make my own. The WAC ones look pretty chintzy. I haven't had an inspector ding that yet and I doubt I will.
 
vino82 said:
Thanks for the tip on HAFELE, looks great. I like how their prices are out in the open. Also, I definitely have Ohms law In mind when calculating the install. I have a somewhat related question that hurk27 inspired with his comment. What are the benefits of a 12v system vs. a 24v system? if inherently you'll have a smaller ampacity with a 24v system. We pay for watts so what's the benefit of a 12v system?
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Very correct on the fact we pay by the wattage of the load not current a a few think that are not in our field of work, so the only benefits of a higher voltage is smaller wire for the same wattage load or more wattage for the same size of wire, also voltage drop can be a benefit because at low voltages it doesn't take loosing just a couple volts to become noticeable, a 5 volt drop at 120 volts (4.16%) would almost not be noticed, but loose 5 volts at 12 volts (41.6%) and you end up with some dim lights.:happyyes:
 
hurk27 said:
Very correct on the fact we pay by the wattage of the load not current a a few think that are not in our field of work, so the only benefits of a higher voltage is smaller wire for the same wattage load or more wattage for the same size of wire, also voltage drop can be a benefit because at low voltages it doesn't take loosing just a couple volts to become noticeable, a 5 volt drop at 120 volts (4.16%) would almost not be noticed, but loose 5 volts at 12 volts (41.6%) and you end up with some dim lights.:happyyes:
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To add to that you also are not as likely to find LED's that operate at 120 volts, so to make a "ribbon" strip of lights you would need to have a "driver" remotely located from the ribbon, but at same time you are limited to how many lights it can drive and length of conductors without having excessively large conductors between the driver and the lights, and if the output is class 2 rated you have even more restrictions on maximum power output of the driver.
 
PetrosA said:
The only brand I use with fittings (not soldered) is WAC Invisiled Pro. They make a "low voltage wiring box" to transition from CL2 to the female end, but honestly, I just buy 6" leads and Ambiance joiners and make my own. The WAC ones look pretty chintzy. I haven't had an inspector ding that yet and I doubt I will.
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That is great! I am hesitant to solder connections and have an inspector look at it. Not that I'm afraid of my soldering aptitude but cautiously aware that an inspector may not approve of 18/2 soldered to LED ribbon. Those little splice boxes look nice and clean. One question, you said you just buy 6" leads and use "ambiance joiners"... what are ambiance joiners?
 
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hurk27 said:
Very correct on the fact we pay by the wattage of the load not current a a few think that are not in our field of work, so the only benefits of a higher voltage is smaller wire for the same wattage load or more wattage for the same size of wire, also voltage drop can be a benefit because at low voltages it doesn't take loosing just a couple volts to become noticeable, a 5 volt drop at 120 volts (4.16%) would almost not be noticed, but loose 5 volts at 12 volts (41.6%) and you end up with some dim lights.:happyyes:
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So what you are saying there are no benefits to using a 12v system over a 24v system? the 24v system is more sturdy against voltage drop due to a larger voltage. As well as Ohm shows us Higher voltage lower amperage, meaning more light on one circuit. 150 watts on a 12v system requires 12.5 amps (150 divided by 12). 150 watts on a 24v system 6.25 amps (150 divided by 24). 150 watts on a 12v system costs the same to run as 150 watts on a 24v system as on a 120v system... and so on. Is it possible with the beginning integration of LED lighting we are going to see lower electricity bills but larger electrical services in the future?! Could it be that we were plundered by Tesla's alternating current?! Might of Edison had it to begin with? with direct current?
 
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