NoLox?

[mivey]

Isn't true that the AL wire used today is made differently and less likely to corrode compared to what was made 25 years ago?

Yes. I think it is a different alloy.

 

[SmithBuilt]

I have seen cases where I believe Nolox would have prevented connection problems. It certainly prevents the white chalking. I now use it on all the al connections.




On another note it is very good on battery terminals. Clean them good and coat all the exposed lead.

 

[stickboy1375]

I have seen cases where I believe Nolox would have prevented connection problems. It certainly prevents the white chalking. I now use it on all the al connections.




On another note it is very good on battery terminals. Clean them good and coat all the exposed lead.

I use it as an anti seize more than anything.

 

[r_merc]

Around here the inspectors look for it although there isn't a requirement for it in the code. I have seen it as an installation specification.

Rick

 

[POWER_PIG]

A bit off the op but IM curious to know ya'lls opinion. I was working in a house built in 1978ish a few months ago. The branch wiring was all aluminum. I was there to change out all the devices to another color and style. No big deal to me except when I was removing the old plugs I noticed they were not cu/al rated. Long story short,,,,,,the homeowner had once before changed all the devices like 10 years or so ago. Well Im trying to explain that the outlets and switches are required to be rated for aluminum conductors which will need to be special ordered. Hard to sell her on that cuz she could plainly see the switches/outlets I was removing were just like brand new even though they were just rated for cu. wiring. I am wondering about the mechanics behind the aluminiun rating/vs. the cu.

 

[macmikeman]

Power Pig, notice the terminal screws on the cu- al rated devices. Usually they are made with aluminum alloy and have a silver look to them.

Today I was replacing a load of old rusted receptacles and switches, installed onto copper nm cables in old bakalite boxes, built into concrete block walls at a house close to the beach. Even the device mounting screws were rusted to da max. After replacing most of the outlet boxes, when putting in new devices I used a glob of No-Alox on all the device terminals and conductors, and dipped the mounting screws in it, and smeared some on the yoke straps. Maybe it will help, maybe not, its a pretty harsh enviroment at that house. Hope it works.

 

[e57]

Al conduit - 300.6A

250.28A - AL is not a "corrosion-resistant material" sans some type of coating. Simular in 250.62

The word "inhibitors" is only found in 110.14

 

[quogueelectric]

No alox is an oxide inhibitor. Aluminum is a good conductor aluminum oxide is not the No alox is supposed to prevent oxygen from contacting the aluminum that is why you are supposed to put it on before it is brushed because it keeps oxygen from combining with the alluminum to form a poor conductor. I have seen idiot after idiot putting the product on after the connection had been made and this is why aluminum had so many fires is because of untrained monkeys installing it.

 

[iwire]

No alox is an oxide inhibitor. Aluminum is a good conductor aluminum oxide is not the No alox is supposed to prevent oxygen from contacting the aluminum that is why you are supposed to put it on before it is brushed because it keeps oxygen from combining with the alluminum to form a poor conductor. I have seen idiot after idiot putting the product on after the connection had been made and this is why aluminum had so many fires is because of untrained monkeys installing it.

You really should do some more research there Mr cow.

 

[mivey]

...I am wondering about the mechanics behind the aluminiun rating/vs. the cu.

You will notice AL devices have a rough grid pattern etched into the plate behind the screw. This helps hold the wire tight as it expands and contracts.

 

[mivey]

You really should do some more research there Mr cow.

What specifically do you have issue with there iwire as most of that is how it seems to be?

The only wires we did not de-ox first were those under wirenuts. We would twist the conductors, de-ox 'em, then put on the wire nut. For terminals, we would de-ox first.

Brushing? I would brush a wire before putting on de-ox as I'm faster than the majority of the oxidation that would occur afterwards.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Brushing? I would brush a wire before putting on de-ox as I'm faster than the majority of the oxidation that would occur afterwards.

Some instructions call for the compound to be applied before brushing as the aluminum oxide forms almost instantaneously. The oxide is not a good conductor and the only reason there are not more problems with aluminum terminations is the fact that the oxide is very brittle and shatters when the conductor is terminated.

 

[weressl]

.................

I prefer Penetrox, it sounds sexier.....

 

[JacksonburgFarmer]

NoLox, DeOX, ect.ect......

NoLox, DeOX, ect.ect......

Depends on the enviroment. We do mostly agricultural work, outside, in hog barns ect. I use it on every lug in the panel, even if cropper conductors. Try taking a lug loose that didnt have deox, and has been there for 20 yrs....GOOD LUCK!!!! You will be changing the lug/breaker/bussbar whatever. You should use deox all the time, makes a better installation. What does it cost, 5 bucks a bottle, bottle lasts how long?????:grin: :smile:

 

[bsh]

It helps reduce the amount of corrision at the joint which reduces the resistance of the connection which reduces the heating which reduces the expansion

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Depends on the enviroment. We do mostly agricultural work, outside, in hog barns ect. I use it on every lug in the panel, even if cropper conductors.

Some of the compounds are not listed for use with copper...only for use with aluminum. Others are listed for only copper and still others are listed for both copper and aluminmum.

 

[iwire]

What specifically do you have issue with there iwire as most of that is how it seems to be?

I do not believe the problems with the original alloy AL conductor have anything to do with untrained monkeys.

The only wires we did not de-ox first were those under wirenuts. We would twist the conductors, de-ox 'em, then put on the wire nut. For terminals, we would de-ox first.

I don't 'de-ox' anymore unless the listing requires it.

Brushing? I would brush a wire before putting on de-ox as I'm faster than the majority of the oxidation that would occur afterwards.

Same here.

 

[brian john]

Depends on the enviroment. We do mostly agricultural work, outside, in hog barns ect. I use it on every lug in the panel, even if cropper conductors. Try taking a lug loose that didnt have deox, and has been there for 20 yrs....GOOD LUCK!!!! You will be changing the lug/breaker/bussbar whatever. You should use deox all the time, makes a better installation. What does it cost, 5 bucks a bottle, bottle lasts how long?????

1. The right product for the right job.
2. There are a variety of NO OX type compounds, for a variety of installations.
3. DEOX does not necessarly make for a better installation.


I believe this is a better choice for some of the applications you noted. This product has a thicker viscosity, easier to apply, LESS RUNNY, not as clumpy/chunky.

http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html

 

[weressl]

I do not believe the problems with the original alloy AL conductor have anything to do with untrained monkeys.

I don't 'de-ox' anymore unless the listing requires it.

Same here.

The aluminum oxidation begins right away as soon as the material is exposed to air. Aluminum oxide also an excellent protective layer, preventing further oxidation. The anodizing process is a mechanism that INCREASES the oxide layer to protect aluminum such as windows from corrosion and also to provide an attractive finish is an electrolytic oxidation process.

The connectors designed for aluminum are designed to displace the oxidized layer and accomplish bare metal bonding that is sealed from further contact with the air(oxygen). This phenomenon was known to the initial designers of the connectors, but the aging mechanism and another chemical anomaly was not properly understood. Consequently the connectors, even after proper installation, failed to perform. One of the issues were the brittleness of the aluminum alloy itself and the other was that it contained copper. The brittleness caused two types of failure, one is hairline crystalline voids upon compression that allowed the outside air -with its contaminants - to actually corrode the material from the inside, the other is that when compressed there would be air voids on the connecting surfaces that again allowed corrosion. While just plain oxidation of aluminum stops at the surface other corrocion process crceates salts that actually popous and eat through the material. The copper content propagates corrosion any time if there is acidic or alkaline moisture present. That is actually what the 'white powder' is, not just plain oxide, it is a salt.

Shortly, when you apply a compound on the joining surfaces you are preventing their exposure whatever nasty stuff is in the air, so our pig-farming friend is smarter than he thinks. Pig-waste is one of the nastiest corrosive stuff you can have......

 

[weressl]

1. The right product for the right job.
2. There are a variety of NO OX type compounds, for a variety of installations.
3. DEOX does not necessarly make for a better installation.


I believe this is a better choice for some of the applications you noted. This product has a thicker viscosity, easier to apply, LESS RUNNY, not as clumpy/chunky.

http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html

False claim of superiority. Zinc particles are added to the compound for mechanical lubrication, not for conductivity improvement. If the material is chemically active, as they claim, there is always a potential for material incompatibility, especially with insulating material nearby. So as previously suggested, check with the contact, connector, or lug manufacturer specifically if the compound is approved by them or not.