Anyone got a FLUKE T+ PRO Electrical Tester?

Status
Not open for further replies.

IMM_Doctor

Senior Member
I like this reply - valuable information

I like this reply - valuable information

I was weary about getting a fluke T+ Pro. I had the electronic ideal Vol-Con that also claimed to be "low impedance" and when I got into industrial I started getting ghost readings everywhere. It would claim I had true 120V on a totally dead 277V circuit.

I've gotten semi-ghost readings with the T+Pro, but with the digital display combined with the lower impedance, I know when they're bogus. I.e.: 32V on a 277V circuit.

The flashlight and backlit display are great.

My only complaint is that the resistance reading won't resolve anything lower than, I think, 10 ohms. But if you really care about resistance you'll probably be using a DMM anyway.

-John

With new tools, there is going to be a subtle learning curve. John noticed: "I know when they're bogus. I.e.: 32V on a 277V circuit." This is what we electricians do everyday, apply our experience to the betterment of others.

I will learn how to use the T+Pro and learn it's nuances, caveats, cans, and cannots.
 
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
Occupation
EC - retired
Don't be so really sure that 32v on a 277v circuit is bogus. If you wired it and you know where things are tied in that may be the case. As in the instance I described in an earlier post, it was not bogus. Opening that control circuit could have subject my help to a full 277.
 

wptski

Senior Member
Location
Warren, MI
True enough, but a good portion of troubleshooting is in, let's say, less-than-comfortable places, and a Knopp K-60 is more rugged than most DMM's. Plus, I need to know 'go' or 'no-go' for power, not specific voltage.

A wiggie is fine for measuring across fuses for testing them while in place. Why pull all two or three when you can find the bad one?
Why would you need to pull fuses to check them using a DMM but not when using a wiggie? :confused:
 

big john

Senior Member
Location
Portland, ME
Is the Vol-Con the digital version? That one's specs state 1M which seems a bit too high to eliminate ghost voltage.
It was the digital Vol-Con Elite. I saw the impedance rating but Ideal also claimed it "eliminated ghost voltages," which was nonsense.
John, that's 10K ohms with the T+Pro.
Ack! Even worse than I remember. Either way, I know the T+ Pro is not much good to check low resistance connections. I've never really used the resistance function.

As far as checking voltages with Wiggys: I have seen a disconnected neutral wire read 120V when checked with a Wiggy. It was in a very long pipe crammed with other heavily loaded 120V circuits, and it was only after putting additional loads on it and watching the voltage drop with a DMM did I begin to suspect it was induced voltage. Moral: There's no perfect tool for all possible situations.

-John
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Why would you need to pull fuses to check them using a DMM but not when using a wiggie? :confused:
I was thinking using the continuity function, where you'd at least have to open the switch, which is usually still closed when I arrive for a troubleshoot.

I prefer testing line-to-line and line-to-neutral while still energized. A loose fuse clip, for example, will show better under load than with a continuity test.
 

mivey

Senior Member
Resistance readings would be one reason. :grin:
With the 3,000 ohm device, just make the following quick calculation in your head and you won't have to remove it:
Resistance = 3000*displayed ohms / (3000-displayed ohms). :grin:
 

SG-1

Senior Member
With the 3,000 ohm device, just make the following quick calculation in your head and you won't have to remove it:
Resistance = 3000*displayed ohms / (3000-displayed ohms). :grin:


Relative mode should zero the meter if it has that function.
If you ever forget it is there, troubleshooting is going to take a lot longer. :D
I have one on order, so I will know for sure soon.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Seriously???
That was sorta sarcasm. ;) Maybe rhetoric would be a better term.

My point is that I need one kind of tester for one problem, and another for another. I don't recall having to switch functions during any one troubleshoot. I know what I need going in.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top