AL/CU Wirenuts

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LarryFine said:
That's the main disadvantage of Bob's in-line splices, which I have used. I'd like to see a "U-turn" version, sort of like a 2-hole mechanical lug without the stud tab.
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You strong like bull, you can make the wire 'U-turn'.:)

Hey, I wonder if one could cut the tab off of a 2-hole lug and use it as a splice? Legally, I mean.
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Maybe or you could use this one.

http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/lugs/lugs_split_bolts_street_light.jsp

Polaris are nice but pricey compared to the two items I have shown.
 
iwire said:
You strong like bull, you can make the wire 'U-turn'.:)
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Maybe or you could use this one.

http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/lugs/lugs_split_bolts_street_light.jsp
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Mongo like! :)
 
What about wire fill? If all the conductors were #6, you would need 25 in?. The box shown is only 31.8 in?. So, 3 #2's (L-L-G) and 2 #6's (L-L) would be more in? than 31.8 in?.
 
dereckbc said:
Yes. Not any Before, but here is the AFTER Pics when the HVAC contractor that installed it 4 years came to repair it. Needless to say he is going to hear from me.

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You sure you have 4AWG and 6AWG - I was expecting larger j box just to be able to bend the #4, and getting them to fit in a blue wire connector may not be impossobile but is not going to be easy. I see they did a fine job of bonding to the box also:roll:
 
I have used the purple wirenut before. They cost about $1.25 each. I think they are only made in one size so they wont work in the OP's case.
 
dereckbc said:
Hey Bob I like that one. Will it fit in a 4 inch J-Box?
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Cool product Bob linked, but is that bump at the top of the insulator for a conductor to enter the center hole of the bar? Is it open or something that can be opened if needed?

If it is an open hole then it would work only if you're using three wires (or tape it up which kinda defeats the purpose of the insulator.)

Still a useful product..thanks for the link Bob! :grin:
 
Chamuit said:
What about wire fill? If all the conductors were #6, you would need 25 in?. The box shown is only 31.8 in?. So, 3 #2's (L-L-G) and 2 #6's (L-L) would be more in? than 31.8 in?.
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Chalmuit to be honest I was guessing at the size. So I went and measured it.

4-3/4 x 4-3/4 x 2

Well I was close, but no cigar. That is why I is enjuner not sparky :D
 
Dennis Alwon said:
I have used the purple wirenut before. .
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Well that is what Bob and I discussed briefly, we do not know that a AL/CU wirenut exist. That is what sent the red flag up when I seen how the contractor fixed it. I was not sure so that is why I started this thread.

I am still open to all suggestions.
 
zappy said:
Anyone know why they don't make the purples in Larger sizes?
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My guess would be the greater expansion and contraction that would be possible with larger conductors. This would be a good reason to go with the butt-splice type connectors with insulation.
 
Chamuit said:
What about wire fill? If all the conductors were #6, you would need 25 in?. The box shown is only 31.8 in?. So, 3 #2's (L-L-G) and 2 #6's (L-L) would be more in? than 31.8 in?.
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Once you have conductors larger than #6 you will need boxes sized by raceway sizes instead of conductor volumes. See 314.28(A).
 
Good call on the reducer for the splice. But a cheap weatherproof service disconnect is probably what should be done here if I understand this right. Is there a disco within sight?
 
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