electrician tricks

[celtic]

I sometimes use push pins ever so gently pressed into the ceiling...99% of the time, even if the location changes, the hole for the fixture or the trim ring will cover that tiny little hole.

Of course, BEFORE putting these little pin holes in the ceiling I get the HO's approval to do it ~ also works to confirm the fixture locations with the HO. They can see the entire layout before an actual hole is made.

For the "attic crawl"....a couple of pieces of cut plywood...2x3' works well, which leaves a little extra piece for placing tools and the flashlight.

 

[chris kennedy]

Florida is the worst paying state in the country to be an electrician.

Opened the door for some Florida bashin there.

Cara and I live comfortably here. Just have to be crafty and conservative. (much like anywhere)

 

[stickboy1375]

Opened the door for some Florida bashin there.

Cara and I live comfortably here. Just have to be crafty and conservative. (much like anywhere)

Not Florida bashing Chris, just telling the truth, believe me I'm in no better boat than you.

 

[480sparky]

Not sure what your asking? Peter has a job. Florida is the worst paying state in the country to be an electrician.

He asked if he was willing to take half a pay cut.....

 

[LarryFine]

Some simple tricks:

1. If you measure the room width first, and then halve it, you know the approximate center, even if they have crown mold. A fingertip can usually make an almost-invisible mark, and I usually clean the ceiling when I'm done anyway.

2. You need not figure the exact half; just measure the exact same distance from both sides. Whether the two measured distances don't meet or whether they overlap, the middle is still exactly halfway between the two marks.

3. You can almost always find joists by looking for fastener dimples, using a stud-finder, and looking for landmarks you can locate from both the room and the attic, such as HVAC outlets and existing ceiling boxes.

 

[TwinCitySparky]

Tricks:

1. If your planned conduit run looks like it might be a tough pull - Pre-Lube your 90's & 45's as you assemble your conduit.

2. If you have a choice, do the "worst first" with any job. The day will almost always end on a nice note.

That's my2 cents -

I was going to suggest the babypowder also. I always keep a small bottle in the van. It's a godsend for the quick wrestling match in the "glass".

John

 

[480sparky]

Tricks:

1. If your planned conduit run looks like it might be a tough pull - Pre-Lube your 90's & 45's as you assemble your conduit.

2. If you have a choice, do the "worst first" with any job. The day will almost always end on a nice note.

That's my2 cents -

I was going to suggest the babypowder also. I always keep a small bottle in the van. It's a godsend for the quick wrestling match in the "glass".

John

Makes grabbing a rope or fish tape kinda hard, doesn't it?

 

[SiddMartin]

For a larger conduit, when you pull your rope through, tie some rags on it (tie them good, maybe tape on top), and lube the rags all up, that will clean, lube the pipe as you pull the rope through

 

[TwinCitySparky]

Makes grabbing a rope or fish tape kinda hard, doesn't it?

It certainly does. I dont like using it unless the pull warrants it. I only use the clear stuff that wipes off the hands/wires easy. Lubing only major friction points (bends) minimizes the mess.

 

[480sparky]

It certainly does. I dont like using it unless the pull warrants it. I only use the clear stuff that wipes off the hands/wires easy. Lubing only major friction points (bends) minimizes the mess.

It may sound like a great idea, but on more than one occasion I've seen cubbies do that thinking it's the greatest idea since the wheel.

And it's no fun when you just can't get a rope cleaned off enough for it to keep from slipping on the capstan of a tugger. Makes for a loooooooong day.

 

[active1]

Windex window cleaner cleans a lot of marks and skuffs off paint.
Had some in the truck for that. It will take a micro layer of paint off sometimes.

Sometimes I liked to mark the joists locations with tape. That way if it was a difficult layout because of framing I could get a better pespective of what I had to work with. Also to explain why we could not put a can there or why we had to lay them out like we did. I can help too when your drilling a few joists from below.

Keeping distances even and semetrical is a goal but sometimes not possable. What is noticable is if a person can stand back and look straight down a row
they will see if a can is out of align. The farther they can stand back the more they will notice. If it's 4 cans in a small room they will not be able to stand back far enough to notice. Spacing between cans is not easy to juge. The taller the cieling and further apart the cans the more the spacing can very. If cans are next to a referance point a small differance will be very noticable. Such as a few inches from crown molding or lining up with the edge of something.

When drilling thru a can hole with a angle drill if the head or chchk is close to the cieling than hold a piece of cardbord between the two. This will prevent scuff marks when the bit pops thru and the drill slips forward.

Have sharp bits and a good assortment of extensions. The bigger the hole the easier to fish. If you hear of feel anf differance when drilling with a long extension stop. I don't know how many close calls I had to going thru roofs, floors, and pipes.

Prope all potential can holes before cutting drywall with a metal wire bent in a "l" shape the size of the can.

 

[LarryFine]

Prope all potential can holes before cutting drywall with a metal wire bent in a "l" shape the size of the can.

Would that be "probe" with an "L" shaped wire?

I usually use one of my swivel drivers for that.

 

[220/221]

First of all, notify the customer that you will make every attempt to avoid drywall repairs but it's not an exact science. You will often run into plumbing or other obstacles that the stud finder won't pick up.

I lay out cans/joists with blue masking tape and mark on that. It gives a visual and can be moved. If a can has to go close to a joist, cut to the joist first and then do the final marking of the can. Look at the roofline and watch out for corner rooms with hip roofs above. The corner cans are a killer. Lay them out first and adjust the others as necessary.

Same thing if you are retro screwing a box to a stud. Locate the stud appx with the stud finder, cut into and up along the stud then put the box on the cuts for an accurate line.

As for laying in insulation, I don't. Cut and patch baby, cut and patch. I never had any success with baby powder.

 

[ItsHot]

bashin" !!

bashin" !!

Opened the door for some Florida bashin there.

Cara and I live comfortably here. Just have to be crafty and conservative. (much like anywhere)

Lets save some of the Florida "bashin' " for a week from this wednesday!:grin:

 

[Aledrell]

Magic Eraser

Magic Eraser

I uses a pencil and carry a Mr. Cleaner magic earser get it alittle wet those things are awesome always removes pencil for me. For can light depth/stud check I use a long skinny screwdriver like an ice pick. I also learned how to repair drywall for mistakes and also have a disclaimer about drywall damages on all quotes. Noone is perfect.

 

[JJWalecka]

"what about keeping insulation off your skin so its not uncomfortable to crawl around attics? i was in hell today. lying down across joists 2 feet on center through blown in insulation."

I had an irritation on my hand from insulation. I carved a jack-o-lantern for my Son and Godson and I found it felt better. LOL.

Perhaps the goo helped.

JJ

 

[JJWalecka]

Celtic "I sometimes use push pins ever so gently pressed into the ceiling...99% of the time, even if the location changes, the hole for the fixture or the trim ring will cover that tiny little hole.

Of course, BEFORE putting these little pin holes in the ceiling I get the HO's approval to do it ~ also works to confirm the fixture locations with the HO. They can see the entire layout before an actual hole is made."


I like the push pin idea!


JJ

 

[TwinCitySparky]

It may sound like a great idea, but on more than one occasion I've seen cubbies do that thinking it's the greatest idea since the wheel.

And it's no fun when you just can't get a rope cleaned off enough for it to keep from slipping on the capstan of a tugger. Makes for a loooooooong day.

Who are you, the perfect post police?

You overanalize my posts. I was thinking about the typical 3/4 pipe run pushing fishtape, not tugging 500's. Maybe you could actually offer something constructive, geared towards the OP's questions ...

 

[LarryFine]

Who are you, the perfect post police?

Are you?

You overanalize my posts.

That happens a lot here. "Lighten up, Francis!" ~ Sgt. Hulka in Stripes

I was thinking about the typical 3/4 pipe run pushing fishtape, not tugging 500's. Maybe you could actually offer something constructive, geared towards the OP's questions

To be fair, you were not specific, and nobody here knows what you're thinking. Fishtape, rope, coat-hanger; we can't see your mental image from here.

Everyone relates to questions and comments with their own experience, which is why many questions create more questions than answers sometimes.

 

[76nemo]

I am going to post this again, for those of you who saw it before or know of it, bear with me. Relay logic/cabs will still be around for quite some time to come. I love this little bugger. Don't knock it until you waste a years savings of $40 bucks on it:wink: :

http://www.magprobe.com/