Recpt height

[480sparky]

Faster is not always better , eyeballing it is faster. Why would a hammer be faster to measure with?
Measure with a screw driver it would still take the same amount of time.The item you use to measure has nothing to do with the speed of the measurement.
What I look at is consistant box hieght with a hammer you must move your measuring device (hammer) that allows for the real possibility of the box moving creating inconsistant height.
With a 2x4 it stays in place during the nailing process thereby giving a greater probability of a consistant height.

Using a hammer means only having to handle two things.... the hammer and the box. Using anything else to measure with, no matter if it's a tape measure, a 2x4, a stick of conduit, a screwdriver, or whatever else you want to use means you have to juggle three things with only two hands.

If your hammer is a little crooked from one box to the next, it may be off 1/16th of a inch......... so what? Is anyone gonna notice that? No.

If you're concerned about the box moving, just hold on tighter. It's called work for a reason.

 

[readydave8]

However high my hammer is.

Me too, but it cost me $25 to get a new hammer with a longer handle (knees not being what they used to be).

 

[Split Bolt]

How many of you "old guys" (myself included) learned to mark out with a folding rule and a piece of keel?

 

[M4gery]

How many of you "old guys" (myself included) learned to mark out with a folding rule and a piece of keel?

I was taught by an old timer that had me use a rule to measure out not only the boxes, but the height of the holes as well.

 

[480sparky]

I was taught by an old timer that had me use a rule to measure out not only the boxes, but the height of the holes as well.

That's spending a dollar to save a dime. You'll waste more in labor than you will ever make up in rope.

 

[readydave8]

That's spending a dollar to save a dime. You'll waste more in labor than you will ever make up in rope.

I do it (or similiar method ) for appearance, not to save romex.

It's according to the job, sometimes my knee is a close enough guage.

 

[infinity]

OK, so the hammer is good for some and not for others. What about kitchen counter receptacles? Seems like even a ruler isn't good for those anymore.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I have a stick rule that opens at 13" (receptacle), 37" (recep in some areas and switches by beds), and 43" (switch & kitchen recep. height). I just set my boxes atop the rule and voila. And I don't care how you do it--- as long as it is consistent.

 

[iwire]

I think this thread rates right up there with ground up / down or smoke alarms supplied by dedicated / general purpose branch circuits.

Lots of strong feelings, no correct answers.

 

[krisinjersey]

Uniformity

Uniformity

For years we all had to carry a 16oz Estwing Straight claw. It was on the required tool list we got when we were hired. Then some one made a "rookie stick" to mark not just receptacles but switches as well. Second year apprentices got offended by them and broke them to protest. Then the ADA requirements started being enforced in NJ and now we measure every box to make sure it meets those requirements. There's nothing worse than failing an inspection because the building inspector wants all the receptacles raised and the switches lowered. It will make you cry!

 

[Split Bolt]

OK, so the hammer is good for some and not for others. What about kitchen counter receptacles? Seems like even a ruler isn't good for those anymore.

When I do kitchens, especially in older home re-models, I have found that the floor on one side of the kitchen might be an inch off from the other. Or it may have dips or bulges, which would be very noticeable. The cabinets and countertop will always be leveled. (carpenters usually start setting cabinets based on the highest point and use shims where necessary) What I do is mark one stud, then use my 4' level to mark a line on every stud all the way around the cabinet area. (even faster when I can borrow the carpenter's 6' level)

 

[iwire]

What I do is mark one stud, then use my 4' level to mark a line on every stud all the way around the cabinet area. (even faster when I can borrow the carpenter's 6' level)

There is a brand new tool out called a "Laser Level" you might want to check one out.:grin:

 

[M4gery]

Or a chalk line with a line level. That'll mark a whole wall in seconds.

 

[infinity]

There is a brand new tool out called a "Laser Level" you might want to check one out.:grin:

That's what I was getting at. We use a laser level since many new kitchens with tile back-splashes require that the receptacles are all the same height. Otherwise it looks pretty horrible when the tile seams line up differently at every device. For real high end stuff with highly anal designers and crooked floor we typically set the heights of of a bench mark. We've had designers who wanted the device in the center of the four intersecting corners of the tile. :roll:

 

[stevenje]

How to make a "box mounter".

Get a 24" long piece of 2x4. Get a piece of 1/2" plywood and cut it to 12" x 3 1/2". Screw the plywood to the 2 x 4 so one end of each board lines up.

How to use a box mounter.

Place the plywood side of the box mounter against the face of the stud that you what to nail your box on to. Use your foot or knee to hold the box mounter in place. Set the bottom of the box on top of the plywood edge of the box mounter and push the face of the box tight against the 2x4 board of the box mounter. Nail it in place. This sets the box at the right height and the correct depth. If it is 5/8" drywall you build one with 5/8" plywood. Paint or mark it so it doesn't get lost in the scrap wood pile. Throw it in the truck for the next job. No more tape measure or wondering what hammer was previously used. Fast, easy and accurate = more money.

 

[M4gery]

Fast, easy and accurate = more money.

It's still a third thing that needs to be dealt with by a being with only 2 hands

Hammer and box, the fastest way. You'll be making extra pennies hand over fist

 

[Split Bolt]

There is a brand new tool out called a "Laser Level" you might want to check one out.:grin:

I do love my laser plumb bob, laser "straight line" and of course my laser cat toy, so I'll probably get a laser level some day! For now, I'm OK using a level. Don't want to lose my "old fashionedness" completely!:grin:

 

[stevenje]

I do love my laser plumb bob, laser "straight line" and of course my laser cat toy, so I'll probably get a laser level some day! For now, I'm OK using a level. Don't want to lose my "old fashionedness" completely!:grin:

In my apprenticeship, I worked with a few journeyman who used a water level.

 

[Sierrasparky]

How to make a "box mounter".

Get a 24" long piece of 2x4. Get a piece of 1/2" plywood and cut it to 12" x 3 1/2". Screw the plywood to the 2 x 4 so one end of each board lines up.

How to use a box mounter.

Place the plywood side of the box mounter against the face of the stud that you what to nail your box on to. Use your foot or knee to hold the box mounter in place. Set the bottom of the box on top of the plywood edge of the box mounter and push the face of the box tight against the 2x4 board of the box mounter. Nail it in place. This sets the box at the right height and the correct depth. If it is 5/8" drywall you build one with 5/8" plywood. Paint or mark it so it doesn't get lost in the scrap wood pile. Throw it in the truck for the next job. No more tape measure or wondering what hammer was previously used. Fast, easy and accurate = more money.

They make this plastic tool called the BOXER....

 

[macmikeman]

Most jobs I go on the carpenters strike a level chalk line for the bottom of the upper cabinets in kitchens, so they can run a string of blocking for the cabinets to fasten to. I measure down from that line, and don't bother with fetching my laser level out of the truck.... Works every time.