Curious what the resolution was to this? I was going to suggest trying an AFCI/GFCI combo breaker and a standard receptacle to see if that might be more immune to tripping from the inverter fridge.
The biggest issue is that the product standards only address leakage current at 60 hZ and GFCIs are only tested at 60 hZ. Much of the new refrigeration equipment produces high frequency leakage current that can cause GFCIs to trip even below 4 mA.
Designed for dedicated use with large and/or stationary appliances, this GFCI outlet limits tripping caused from variable-speed drives[/quote]
Wouldn't it work best if around the two supply conductors or even those plus the EGC instead of just the EGC only?
Some have posted that those do work.
But shouldn't it go on the current carrying conductors more so than the EGC?
Still waiting to go back. Are the GFCI breakers less sensitive than receptacles? I’m assuming if I do that it will still trip because the fridge is tripping all GFCIs we’ve plugged it into. I can definitely put in a dual function if they have a higher tolerance
Thanks for the reply, I know this about GFCIs, my question was rhetorical because the proposed solution was removing the GFCI because all code requires is an EGC and I was saying that if there is a true neutral to ground fault and we take away the GFCI, would just the presence of an EGC on an AFCI breaker stop a potentially dangerous situation that only the GFCIs seem to be catching right now. I know the answer is no, but also it’s probably not a neutral to ground issue and is the VFD everyone’s been talking about so probably ok for me to remove the GFCI. I’m just paranoid about liability.
No, it's not OK, to remove the GFCI protection if it is required. You would be liable.
Move the refrigerator into another room as a temp solution until resolution with MFG and GFCI can be made. Call MFG to complain and ask their solution.
The receptacle is far enough away from the sink to not need to be a GFCI. This whole dilemma is me saying that the fridge is close to the sink but the outlet is not. But the fridge is tripping GFCIs so even though we could get away with not having it plugged in to a GFCI is there some safety issue with the fridge that’s parked right next to the sink and would removing a GFCI cause a hazard to the homeowner. Or is there an abundance of information stating “no, it’s just an electronic issue with Samsung and therefore just stick to the NEC and everything will be fine”. I want to tell the homeowner it’s safe rather than just do my job and say anything that happens next is Samsung’s fault. That was the reason for this post.
Wise advice. Thank you.
That is the whole problem with these incompatibilities coupled with the rules. The EC's end up being the one that eats costs trying to make customers happy. Even if the manufacturers offer free updates/ fixes/ replacements guess who puts in a whole bunch of time and never gets reimbursed for someone else's problem?
Around the supply conductors is the only way I have installed them on sensitive industrial equipment. Sometimes the instructions specified more than one wrap around the ferrite ring. These were not related to a GFCI install, but to protect the equipment from spikes.
What code cycle you on? 2023 you loose that allowance for if you are not within 6 ft or counter top. 2023 simply states all receptacles in a kitchen, 150V or less to ground, must have GFCI protection, in addition to the 6ft rule.
But in this case, if the issue is high frequency current noise on the EGC, and if a ferrite ring works by increasing the impedance at high frequency, while maintaining a low impedance at 60 Hz, then putting them on the EGC makes sense to me.
